Judesmo - Judeo-Spanish (lit. “Jewish”)
kadi - judge
kahal - congregation of a synagogue
kahya - agent, representative
khan - hostelry
komitadji - armed band member (lit. “committee-man”)
konak - villa, governor’s building
limonadji - lemonade-seller
loustros - shoe-black
mahalla - neighbourhood, district
Ma’min - followers of Sabbetai Zevi who converted to Islam
Marrano - Iberian Jews who converted to Catholicism
medrese - religious school attached to a mosque
mesjid - small mosque
millet - religious community
modistra - seamstress [dim. modistroula]
mollah - Muslim judge and senior member of the ulema
mufti - Muslim jurisconsult
muqarna - honeycomb combination of miniature squinches
narghilé - hookah
odos - street
orta - a janissary battalion
oud - musical instrument
pasha - governor, or high-ranking military officer
pasvant - neighbourhood watchman
pechlivanides - wrestlers
plateia - square
sarraf - personal banker, money-lender
shari’a - Muslim canonical law
sheykh - elder, head of a religious order
sheykh-ul-Islam - Chief Mufti of the Ottoman empire
tekke - Sufi lodge
tseftiteli - belly-dance
turbe - mausoleum
ulema - the doctors of Muslim canon law, tradition and theology
vakf - charitable endowment
vilayet - province
yataghan - a long dagger, sword
yürük - Turkish nomad
zaharoplasteion - patisserie
ziyara - pilgrimage to the tomb of a holy man
The sea approach from the south-west, c. 1860. The minarets and cypresses rising above the walls were what first struck visitors. The city is still entirely girded by its walls. (photo credit 2.1)
The sea approach from the south-east. The eastern wall divides the city from the uninhabited slopes outside. (photo credit 2.2)
The eastern walls in the early twentieth century. At the top is the stretch where Ottoman troops breached the Byzantine defences in the siege of 1430. (photo credit 2.3)
A Muslim graveyard in open country outside the fortress, early twentieth century. (photo credit 2.4)
Mosque and minaret in the Upper Town in the early twentieth century. (photo credit 2.5)
Surrounded by postwar apartment blocks, the Aladja Imaret is one of the few surviving mosques in the city. (photo credit 2.6)
An Ottoman tribunal in session. (photo credit 2.7)
Women collecting water from a street fountain in the Upper Town. (photo credit 2.8)
Sabbatai Zevi, sketched by an unknown artist in Izmir, 1666. (photo credit 2.9)
Sabbatians in Salonica performing penitential exercises. (photo credit 2.10)
Ma’min boy in the robes of a Mevlevi oblate, Salonica, late nineteenth century. (photo credit 2.11)
the Yeni Djami, the main Ma’min mosque, built in 1902 by the Italian architect Vitaliano Poselli. (photo credit 2.12)
The courtyard of the Mevlevi tekke shortly after the ending of Ottoman rule, c. 1917. A priest may be seen, with a group of refugees. (photo credit 2.13)
Mevlevi dervishes in Salonica, c. 1900. (photo credit 2.14)
Leading the mourners at a grave in the Jewish cemetery, c.1916. (photo credit 2.16)
Ottoman café in the Upper Town. (photo credit 2.17)
European officers witness the hanging of the alleged murderers of the two consuls following the disturbances of 1876. The artist is Pierre Loti. (photo credit 2.18)
Ottoman street life: left hamal, or porter; right vendor of lemonade; (photo credit 2.19)
sellers of leeches (photo credit 2.20)
The old konaki [pacha’s palace]. (photo credit 2.21)
The new konaki with the Saatli mosque visible to the left. It was from the balcony on the first floor that Hilmi Pacha announced the restoration of the constitution in 1908. (photo credit 2.22)
Ottoman modern: the municipal hospital, built outside the eastern walls. (photo credit 2.23)
Ottoman modern: a classroom in one of the city’s new state schools. (photo credit 2.24)
The Macedonian Struggle: the staff of the Greek consulate, 1905. (photo credit 2.25)
The Macedonian Struggle: Greek and Albanian band members, c.1904. (photo credit 2.26)
The Macedonian Struggle: Sandanski: brigand, kidnapper and fighter for Macedonian autonomy. (photo credit 2.27)
Hilmi Pacha: General Inspector of Macedonia and Grand Vizier, 1909. (photo credit 2.28)
Ioacheim III: Metropolitan of Salonica, and later Ecumenical Patriarch – he saw nationalism as a threat to the integrity of the Orthodox Church. (photo credit 2.29)
Albanian Ottoman irregulars. (photo credit 2.30)
Regular Ottoman infantry arrive in Macedonia. (photo credit 2.31)
The city’s new masters: Cretan gendarmes. (photo credit 2.32)
The city’s new masters: Venizelos arrives by sea to lead Greece into the First World War, 9 October 1916. (photo credit 2.33)
Technologies of war: a German biplane attracts crowds along the front. (photo credit 2.34)
Technologies of war: A refugee camp inside the city, 1916. (photo credit 2.35)
Devastation in the town centre following the 1917 fire. (photo credit 2.36)
First meeting of the town planners, 1917. (photo credit 2.37)
Wartime excavations: Ernest Hebrard leads a dig in the precinct of the Rotonda. (photo credit 2.38)
The new city: A straightened and widened Egnatia runs alongside the Arch of Galerius. (photo credit 2.39)
Huts of Asia Minor refugees beneath the old walls, c.1960. (photo credit 2.40)
Last remnants of the Ottoman city: the Upper Town, c.1960. (photo credit 2.41)
Rosa Eskenazi, Dimitrios Semsis (violin) and Tomboul (bouzouki), c.1930. (photo credit 2.42)
The Hamza Bey mosque, in its postwar incarnation as the Alcazar Cinema, c.1960. (photo credit 2.44)
The round-up of Jewish men by German troops, July 1942. (photo credit 2.45)
University buildings going up on the site of the old Jewish cemetery, 1950s. (photo credit 2.46)
The city expands: the Ottoman city is still divided from the new suburbs along the coast by cemeteries and open ground, c.1910. The new Idadié building is visible in the middle distance. (photo credit 2.47)
The city expands: The same view half a century later: the campus and International Fair grounds flank the Idadié. Arterial roads link the old city with the suburbs. The minarets and cypresses have vanished from the centre; high-rise construction dominates. (photo credit 2.48)
The Cold War nation-state triumphant: during 1962 parades marking a half-century of Greek rule, school-children hold up a globe, flanked by personifications of ancient and modern Greece (left) and (right) military vehicles pass down Egnatia. (photo credit 2.49)
The planned city centre: the new street grid carves channels between post-war apartment blocks, leading down into Plateia Aristotelous and the seafront road. (photo credit 2.50)
Saint Dimitrios and his city. A sixteenth century icon. (photo credit 1.1)
The Greco-Roman-Christian synthesis: Saint Dimitrios flanked by the bishop and the prefect, the patrons of his church, seventh century mosaics, Church of Ayios Dimitrios. (photo credit 1.2)
The Slavic threat: Byzantine forces drive a Bulgarian army away from the city, miniature from the chronicle of Ioannis Skylitzes, eleventh–twelfth century AD. (phot
o credit 1.3)
Ottoman officials supervise the forced levy of Christian children from a Balkan town. In the foreground the children wait to be registered and to receive a stipend. Relatives and a priest watch from behind a wall. Sixteenth century Ottoman miniature. (photo credit 1.4)
Sultan Murad II (c. 1403–1451) the conqueror of Salonica, and father of Mehmed II, who finally captured Constantinople two years after Murad’s death. Sixteenth century Ottoman miniature. (photo credit 1.5)
A Jewish merchant and doctor in Ottoman dress. Istanbul, 1574. (photo credit 1.6)
Visitors arrive at the home of a Jewish merchant to examine Las Incantadas. Their host offers coffee to the British consul watched by his wife and daughters from the balcony. In the background are James Stuart and Nicholas Revett, British antiquarians, the consul’s son (the only one in European dress) and the consul’s Greek interpreter. Sketched in 1754, this picture is the first life drawing of the city to survive. The statues themselves were carted off to the Louvre a century later. (photo credit 1.7)
The Arch of Galerius at the end of the main street as drawn by Edward Lear, 1848. (photo credit 1.8)
Jewish singers and musicians, late nineteenth century. (photo credit 1.9)
Jewish marriage contract, 1790. (photo credit 1.10)
Jewish wet-nurse and Bulgarian peasant bride, c. 1860. (photo credit 1.11)
The picturesque city: the panorama from the fortress slopes, Edward Lear, 1848. (photo credit 1.12)
Greece triumphant: Prince Constantine takes the Ottoman surrender of the city, in 1912, as depicted in a popular lithograph. (photo credit 1.13)
A backstreet near the Rotonda, 1913. (photo credit 1.14)