Star Wars, 48
Stein, Gertrude, 205–6
Sternberg, Josef von, 38, 39, 41
storms, 53–57
checking on in-laws’ house in Richebourg during, 54–57
Japanese haiku and, 102–4
Larche’s Tempête et ses nuées and, 100–102, 102, 104
see also rain
Stravinsky, Igor, 201, 202, 203–4
street, Parisians’ complex relationship with, 147–48
street performers, see buskers
student uprising of May 1968, 208, 217, 224–26
Studio Babelsberg, 279
submarine bases, in southwest France, 276–82, 278
summer:
heat of, 13–14, 15, 136–40
vacances (vacations) in, 66, 201, 288
Sunday, as day of rest, 186, 199
Super-Cannes (Ballard), 191
surrealists, 161, 192, 218, 236
Tale of Two Cities, A (Dickens), 72–73, 165, 195
tall poppy syndrome, 106
Tegen-Beeld Foundation, 161
Tempête et ses nuées (Larche), 100–102, 102, 104
Terreur, La (the Terror), 43, 75, 155, 165–69, 218
thalassotherapy, 84–90
Thatcher, Margaret, 45
Théâtre de l’Odéon, 225, 286–87
Théâtre du Châtelet, 200, 201, 204, 205
Thermidor, 14, 46, 119, 157, 158, 217–18
Thermidor (Sardou), 218
Third Estate (landowners, farmers, and people in business), 2
Thomas, Dylan, 17, 270, 273–74
Thouin, André, 130–33, 131
time, perception of, 49–50
“To Autumn” (Keats), 259–61
To Catch a Thief, 11
Tolstoy, Leo, 200
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de, 269
Trenet, Charles, 262–63
Tresca, Salvatore, 157
tricolor (flag), 71, 73
Truffaut, François, 59
Tuileries Garden, 50
Turquin, Barthélémy, 171
Twain, Mark, 8
Tyler, T. Texas, 128–29
Universal Exposition of 1900, 99
University of Sydney, 37
uprisings of 1830 and 1832, 197
vacances (vacations), 66, 201, 288
Vatican, 117
Vendémiaire, 46, 119
Ventôse, 119
Verdet, André, 238
Verlaine, Paul, 160, 261, 281–82, 285
Vermilion Sands stories (Ballard), 191
Verne, Jules, 188–90
Versailles, 53, 55, 56–57, 68, 75, 96, 164, 207
Vert-Galant, 35, 235
Vertigo, 140
Vian, Boris, 227, 271
Vichy government, 276
Villon, François, 272, 274
Voice of America, 270, 271
Voltaire, 60, 133
“Voyages” (Crane), 32
Walk a Little Faster, 122
War and Peace (Tolstoy), 200
weather, French responses to, 7–9, 23, 283
Weissmuller, Johnny, 173
Wells, H. G., 187
Wharton, William, 30
Whitman, Walt, 120
Wilde, Oscar, 69
Wilder, Alec, 121
Wilson, Owen, 269
wine, 122, 153, 167
Beaujolais nouveau, 108, 114–16
Champagne, 154, 237, 249
winter:
Christmas rituals and, 24–25
foods and smells of, 109–10
pleasures of, 116
shift from autumn to, 109–16
in south of France, 181
winter scenes, paintings of, 6
Wordsworth, William, 72
World War II, 153, 192, 206, 209
liberation of Paris in, 208
Nazi occupation in, 171, 208, 275–82, 278
Wyndham, John, 188
Zoave on the Pont d’Alma, 27, 29
Zola, Émile, 60, 262
“Zone” (Apollinaire), 31–32
About the Author
JOHN BAXTER has lived in Paris for almost thirty years. He is the author of many critically acclaimed books about France, including Five Nights in Paris: After Dark in the City of Light; The Perfect Meal: In Search of the Lost Tastes of France (winner of the International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Award for Culinary Travel); The Most Beautiful Walk in the World: A Pedestrian in Paris; Immoveable Feast: A Paris Christmas, Paris at the End of the World: The City of Light During the Great War, 1914–1918; and We’ll Always Have Paris: Sex and Love in the City of Light. Baxter, who gives literary walking tours through Paris, is also a film critic and biographer whose subjects have included the directors Federico Fellini, Stanley Kubrick, Woody Allen, and, most recently, Josef von Sternberg. Born in Australia, Baxter lives with his wife and daughter in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood, in the building Sylvia Beach once called home.
For more information, visit www.johnbaxterparis.com.
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Also by John Baxter
Montparnasse
Montmartre
Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Five Nights in Paris
Paris at the End of the World
The Perfect Meal
The Most Beautiful Walk in the World
Von Sternberg
Carnal Knowledge
Immoveable Feast
We’ll Always Have Paris
A Pound of Paper
Science Fiction in the Cinema
Bunuel
Fellini
Stanley Kubrick
Steven Spielberg
Woody Allen
George Lucas
De Niro
TRANSLATED BY JOHN BAXTER
My Lady Opium by Claude Farrère
Morphine by Jean-Louis Dubut de Laforest
The Diary of a Chambermaid by Octave Mirbeau
Gamiani, or Two Nights of Excess by Alfred de Musset
Copyright
A YEAR IN PARIS. Copyright © 2019 by John Baxter. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse-engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.
FIRST EDITION
Cover design by Milan Bozic
Cover photograph © AG Photographe/Getty Images
Digital Edition FEBRUARY 2019 ISBN: 978-0-06-284689-1
Version 01292019
Print ISBN: 978-0-06-284688-4
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