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    A Year in Paris

    Page 21
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      Fête du Travail, La, 119

      “Feuilles mortes, Les” (dead leaves), 262

      “Feuilles mortes, Les,” or “the dead leaves,” (Prévert), 110

      fèves (ceramic figures in galettes), 237–38

      filmmakers, 32, 37–38, 233, 269, 277, 279

      First Empire, 186

      First Estate (church), 2

      Fitzgerald, F. Scott, 109

      Fitzgerald, Zelda, 204–5

      Floréal, 119, 133, 214–15, 217

      Fokine, Michel, 204, 206

      Folies Bergère de Paris, 145

      food:

      seasonality and, 20, 23, 250–52, 285

      shopping for, in Paris vs. New York, 250–52

      Foucault, Léon, pendulum of, 61–63, 62, 120, 211, 292

      Foucault’s Pendulum (Eco), 59, 61

      franc, adoption of, 71

      Franco-Prussian War, 160, 197–98

      Free French government, 208

      Freud, Sigmund, 264

      Frimaire, 119, 181

      Fructidor, 46, 119

      Gaillot, Jacques, 232–33

      galette des rois (kings’ cake), 237

      Galileo, 62

      Gallant, Mavis, 137–39, 140

      Gamay grapes, 108, 115

      Garbo, Greta, 245–48, 247, 256

      Gaulle, Charles de, 75, 208–9, 225, 275, 277

      Gee, Oliver, 175–78

      geese, 182–83

      Gehry, Frank, 32–34, 33

      Gelenter, Terrance, 265–68, 267, 274

      Germinal, 119, 201

      Germinal (Zola), 262

      Giscard d’Estaing, Valéry, 44–45, 256

      Godin-Lesage, Marie Nicole, 94

      “God Save the Queen,” 25

      Goering, Hermann, 279

      Goodman, Benny, 282

      Gopnik, Adam, 26

      graffiti artists, 161

      Grand Palais (Great Palace), 28, 98–99

      Grandpré, Adrian de, 47, 231–34

      Grant, Cary, 11, 32

      grape harvest, or vendange, 108, 119

      Great Barrier Reef, 37, 39

      Great Gatsby, The (Fitzgerald), 21

      Gréco, Juliette, 271

      Greene, Graham, 270

      Gregorian calendar, 77, 105, 118, 127–28

      farmers relationship to church and, 181–82

      naming of children and, 129

      reintroduction of, 186

      transposing dates between Calendrier républicain and, 185

      Gregory XIII, Pope, 77, 105

      Greuze, Jean-Baptiste, 141–42

      grunion, 121

      Guillaume de Lorris, 209

      guillotine, 69, 73, 75, 76, 106, 142, 154, 164, 168, 169, 195

      Guimard, Hector, 230

      Guyton de Morveau, Louis-Bernard, 77

      haiku, 102–4

      Halles, Les, 283

      Hanin, Roger, 211

      Harburg, E. Y. “Yip,” 122–24, 125

      Hardy, Thomas, 258–59

      Harlem Hellfighters, 206

      Harris, Rolf, 24

      harvests, 119, 182, 185, 216, 254, 259, 262, 282

      Beaujolais nouveau and, 108, 114–15

      first day of Republican year and, 107–8

      haussement d’épaules, un, 100

      Hawn, Goldie, 32

      Hemingway, Ernest, 4, 140, 160

      Hemingway, Hadley, 140

      Hemingway, Pauline, 160

      Henry IV, 18, 34

      Henry V (Shakespeare), 216

      Henry VIII, king of England, 150

      Hepburn, Audrey, 32

      Heraclitus, 104

      Hitchcock, Alfred, 11, 140, 243

      Hitler, Adolf, 275, 276, 279

      HLMs (habitation à loyer modéré), 220

      holidays, 65–67

      in Calendrier républicain, 119–20, 182–85

      traditional religious feasts, 182

      “Home-Thoughts” (Browning), 126

      Honest Man’s Almanac (Maréchal), 107

      Hornick, Neil, and the Sidewalkers, 149

      Hôtel des Invalides, 75

      hot weather, 13–14, 15, 136–40

      Houellebecq, Michel, 87–88, 90

      houseboats on the Seine, 30, 55

      Hugo, Victor, 60, 150, 197

      hunting, 67, 69

      hurricanes, 53–57

      driving to Richebourg during, 54–57

      medieval engraving of, 56

      Hurricane Xynthia, 136

      Île aux Juifs (Jews’ Island), 35

      Île de la Cité, 16–21, 17, 34, 53–54

      Île de Ré, 85–90

      “Il pleut, bergère” (It’s raining, shepherdess), 95–96, 168, 292

      impressionists, 104

      L’Inconnue de la Seine, or the Unknown Girl of the Seine, 35

      “In My Craft or Sullen Art” (Thomas), 270

      Inquisition, 62

      Isaure, Clémence, 82, 95, 110–11

      Jacobins, 143

      Jacques, Saint, festival of, 227–34, 232

      Jardin du Roi (Royal Garden), 130–32

      Jardins du Luxembourg, 91, 110–11, 112, 151, 159, 163

      Jaurès, Jean, 211

      java (jigging dance), 140

      jazz, 270–71, 276, 279

      Jefferies, Richard, 187

      Jefferson, Thomas, 132

      John of Austria, Don, 162

      Johnson, Diane, 13

      Johnston, George, 44

      Jude, Saint, 233

      Jung, Karl, 264

      kangaroos, 243–44, 246

      Keats, John, 259–60

      Kelly, Gene, 32, 145

      Kelly, Grace, 11

      Khan, Yaseen, 110, 111, 116

      Kipling, Rudyard, 208

      Knights Templar, 35

      Kolberg, 279

      Kosma, Joseph, 262

      Laerdal, Asmund, 35

      Lafayette, Marquis de, 83

      Lafitte, Louis, 154–57, 158, 181, 215, 259, 260

      La Fontaine, Jean de, 291–92

      Lagrange, Louis, 77–78

      Lang, Jack, 50, 211

      Lange, Jessica, 236

      La Pallice submarine base, 277, 281

      Larche, François-Raoul, 100–102, 102, 104

      La Rochelle, Nazi occupation of, 276–82, 278

      Last Tango in Paris, 32

      Laure et Pétrarque, 95

      Lawrence, T. E., 7

      Leda and the swan, 157, 158

      Lefrançois de Lalande, Joseph Jérôme, 77

      legal system, 186

      Le Havre, 17–18

      Leigh, Vivien, 151

      Leopold II of Belgium, 99

      “Lepanto” (Chesterton), 162–63

      liberation of Paris (1944), 208

      Life of Pi, 174

      lily of the valley, 215

      literary walks, 241–42

      Litscher, Hans Peter, and his Litscheriade, 242–48, 243

      London Times, 185

      Lost Generation, 228

      Louis XIV, 207, 210

      Louis XVI, xvi, 18, 68–69, 76, 82, 96–97, 166

      Louvre, 28, 180

      Lucas, George, 48

      Lunceford, Jimmie, 279

      Luxembourg Garden, see Jardins de Luxembourg

      lycée system, 186

      “Lydia the Tattooed Lady,” 122, 124

      Macbeth (Shakespeare), 256

      MacLeish, Archibald, 4

      Mah, Ann, 285

      Maison Maire, 218

      Mallory, George, 7

      Malraux, André, 275

      Manceron, Claude, 211

      Manhattan, author’s visit to, 249–52

      Marais, 176–77, 272–74

      Marat, Jean-Paul, 143–44, 164, 291

      Marceau, Marcel, 235

      Maréchal, Pierre-Sylvain, 107

      Marianne (spirit of the revolution), 155

      Marie Antoinette, 68, 69, 76, 96, 164, 210

      markets, business hours of, 67

      Marlowe, Christopher, 92

      Marseillaise, 71, 73, 94

      Martinmas, 182
    , 185

      May, disasters that took place in, 216–17

      May Day, 216, 219

      Mazet-Delpeuch, Danièle, 257

      measurement systems:

      metric, 106–7

      physical circumstances and, 49

      Méditerranée, La, 286–87

      “Mer, La” (the sea), 262–63

      Messidor, 119, 259, 260

      “Messidor” (Miaux), 282

      Métivet, Lucien, 217

      metric system, 154

      Calendrier républicain and, 106–7, 117

      Miaux, Albert, 281–82

      Michaelmas, 182–84, 184

      Michel, Louise, 225

      Midnight in Paris, 269

      Miller, Henry, 161, 269

      mimes, 235–38, 239

      Minosuke, Yamada, 100–104

      Mirror, The (Delvaux), 192, 193

      Misérables, Les (Hugo), 197

      Mistral, 236–39, 239, 240

      Mitchell, David, 24

      Mittelberg, Louis, 51

      Mitterand, François, 208–9, 210–13, 212, 253, 254, 256–57

      Moati, Serge, 211

      Molay, Jacques de, 35

      Molière, 80, 92

      Monet, Claude, 104

      Monge, Gaspard, 77

      Monk, Thelonious, 271

      Montagnards, 143

      Montaud, Yves, 18–19

      Montel, Marie-Dominique (wife), 2, 17, 22, 43–44, 47, 54–55, 60, 61, 63, 64–67, 84–87, 90, 170, 177, 223, 229, 277, 281, 290–91

      month names, in Republican calendar, 118–19, 201, 263

      Montmartre, 112–16, 179, 197–98, 228–31, 269

      moue (pronunciation), 99, 100

      Moulin, Jean, 60, 211

      muguet (lily of the valley), 215

      Munich, 32

      Musée de Luxembourg, 111–12

      Musée d’Orsay, 99

      Nadja (Breton), 19, 20

      Name of the Rose, The (Eco), 40–41

      naming of children, 129, 134, 199

      Napoléon Bonaparte, xvi, 1, 50, 75, 134, 171, 179, 180, 185–86, 198, 216, 217, 279

      Napoléon III, Emperor, 64

      National Guard, 95

      Neuilly, childbirthing facility in, 64–65

      Newby, Eric, 8

      “New York minute,” 49

      nightwalkers, see noctambules

      Nijinsky, Vaslav, 200, 203, 204, 206

      Nin, Anaïs, 30

      Nivôse, 119, 133–34

      noctambules (nightwalkers), 268–74

      jazz and, 270–71

      Paris inconvenient for, 269–70

      sex clubs and, 272–74

      Notre Dame, 18

      Notre Dame de Paris (Hugo), 150

      Nuit des Rois (Night of Kings), 237

      occupation (1940–44):

      of Paris, 171, 208, 275–76, 277

      of southwest France, 276–82, 278

      Occupation (1940–1945): Siège de La Rochelle (Miaux), 280–82

      O’Day, Bob and Deidre, 227–31

      Opéra, 28

      Orangerie, 112

      Orchestre de Paris, 211

      Orczy, Baroness, 165, 195–97

      ortolans, 257

      Paine, Thomas, 166

      Palais de Justice, 18, 21

      Panthéon, 60–63

      Foucault’s pendulum at, 61–63, 62, 211

      Mitterand at, 210–13, 212

      Parade, 206

      “Paris at Night” (Prévert), 272

      “Paris au mois d’août,” or “Paris in the Month of August,” 13–14

      Paris plage (Paris beach), 170

      Parker, Charlie “Bird,” 271

      Parker, Dorothy, 125–26, 210

      past:

      French deeply respectful of, 26

      French penchant for dwelling in, 49–50

      patrimoine, le (“the heritage”—the accumulated glory of France), 26, 32

      Péret, Benjamin, 218

      Périphérique (ring road enclosing Paris), 55–56

      Persian unit of distance, 49

      Pétain, Marshal Philippe, 276

      Peter, Paul and Mary, 227

      Petit Palais (Little Palace), 98–99

      pet shops, 177

      phantom of the Opéra, legend of, 28

      Piaf, Édith, 149, 150

      Picasso, Pablo, 206

      Picpus convent, 73, 179, 218

      pigs, butchering of, 185

      pilgrimages, 85

      Pingré, Alexandre Guy, 77

      Piscine Deligny, 171–73, 172

      Piscine Molitor, 173–74, 174

      piscines (swimming pools), 170–74, 172, 174

      Place Dauphine, 18–20, 53–54

      Place de la Concorde (formerly Place de la Révolution), 43, 45, 164, 168, 171

      Place des Abbesses, 230

      Place Saint-Sulpice, 159, 163

      Platform (Houellebecq), 87–88, 90

      Pluviôse, 119, 146, 181

      politics, showmanship in, 207–13

      Pompidou, Georges, 254

      Pont Alexandre III, 159

      Pont d’Alma, 27, 29

      Pont de Bir-Hakeim, 32

      Pont des Arts, 31

      Pont d’Iéna, 55

      Pont du Garigliano, Calle and Gehry’s phone booth on, 32–34, 33

      Pont Neuf, 19, 34–35, 170

      Eleanore, the crocodile of, 177–78

      Poulenc, Francis, 206

      Prairial, 119, 157

      Préjean, Albert, 149

      Prévert, Jacques, 110, 262, 272, 274

      “Prima Belladonna” (Ballard), 191

      Prin, Alice (aka Kiki), 218

      Prix de Rome, 154–55

      Proud Fool, The (Fabre), 142

      Proudhon, Sophie, 93

      Proust, Marcel, 11, 171, 244

      Queen Charlotte’s Ball, 69

      Raiders of the Lost Ark, 277

      rain, 145–47, 151–52

      “Singin’ in the Rain” and, 145, 146–47

      see also storms

      Ray, Man, 159–60, 161, 218, 222

      Reagan, Ronald, 8

      Réard, Louis, 173

      Rear Window, 140

      Récamier, Juliette, 215

      Reformation, 118

      Republican calendar, see Calendrier républicain

      Resistance, 209, 211, 277

      restaurants, seasonality and supplies delivered to, 20

      Resusci Anne, 35

      revolution of 1789, 2, 61, 68–69, 71–75, 94, 97, 120, 180, 198, 216, 225

      achievements of, 71–72

      burials after, 179–80

      calendar reform and, see Calendrier républicain

      Catholic clergy imprisoned in, 117–18

      date reset after, 76

      ended by Napoléon’s coup, 185–86

      fears of invasion by Catholic Austria and Italy after, 117

      gory aftermath of, 72–73, 74, 75, 76, 117–18, 164–69

      later uprisings and, 197–98

      mocked by Fabre, 142

      novels, plays, and musical works inspired by, 194–97

      storming of Bastille in, 68, 73, 207–8

      Revue Nègre, 205

      Reynolds, Debbie, 145

      Richebourg, Île-de-France:

      checking on in-laws’ house in, during storm, 54–57

      Christmas Day in, 1–3, 6–9

      rural decline and, 6–7

      Rictus, Jehan, 150

      Rimbaud, Arthur, 160–62, 163

      Rimsky-Korsakov, Nikolai, 203

      Robespierre, Maximilien de, 73, 74, 75, 76, 78, 82, 142, 143, 144, 165, 186, 217, 218, 264

      burial of, 180

      the Terror and, 165, 167, 168–69

      “Roman de la rose,” or “The Romance of the Rose” (Guillaume de Lorris), 209

      Romme, Charles-Gilbert, 78, 143, 180

      rose:

      Floréal associated with, 214–15

      golden, as Fabre’s emblem, 80–82, 81, 95, 111, 210, 214

      Mitterand’s use of symbology of, 209, 210–13, 212, 254

    &
    nbsp; as symbol of love, 209–10

      Rouch, Jean, 38, 41

      Rouget de Lisle, Claude Joseph, 94

      Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, 60, 132

      rue de l’Odéon, 73–75, 106, 155, 289

      rue Férou, 159–61

      rural decline, 6–7

      Ruskin, John, 263–64

      Russian Revolution, 73

      Sacre du printemps, Le (The Rite of Spring), 201–6, 202

      Sade, Marquis de, 166, 190, 192

      Sagan, Françoise, 284

      Sainte-Chapelle, 18, 21

      Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de, 60, 253

      Saint-Gerrmain-des Prés, 110, 111

      Saint-Just, Louis de, 165, 180

      Saint-Sulpice, Church of, 58

      sanitation, 20, 43

      sans-culottes, les (those without pants), 82, 106, 119

      Sardou, Victorien, 218

      Sartre, Jean-Paul, 271

      Scarlet Pimpernel (Orczy), 165, 194, 195–97

      Schama, Simon, 80, 82

      Schmidt, Tobias, 75

      Schneider, Maria, 32

      Schoelcher, Victor, 211

      Schultz-Köhn, Dietrich, 276, 282

      science fiction, 187–92, 236, 270

      Scott, Robert Falcon, 7

      Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), 265–68

      seasonality:

      art of living in France and, 283–86

      food and, 20, 23, 250–52, 285

      and symbolism of nature in works of poets, musicians, and artists, 258–64

      seawater, thalassotherapy and, 84–90

      Second Estate (aristocracy), 2

      Seine, 27–35, 116, 235

      bateaux mouches (excursion boats) on, 32, 55

      bridges over, 31–35

      crocodile living in, 177–78

      floodwaters of, 27–31, 29

      houseboats on, 30, 55

      island in, see Île de la Cité

      Paris plage (Paris beach) along bank of, 170

      piscines (swimming pools) in, 170–74, 172, 174

      upstream, unconfined by stone walls, 30

      sex clubs, 272–74

      Shakespeare, William, 92, 215, 216, 256

      Shakespeare & Company, 31

      Shaw, Irwin, 286–87

      Sidewalks of London (also known as Saint Martin’s Lane), 151

      Sieyès, Abbé, 2

      Simon, Louis-Victor, 95

      “Singin’ in the Rain,” 145, 146–47

      Sirius, the Dog Star, 14

      “Six White Boomers,” 24

      skiing season, 65–66, 67

      Slate, 137–39

      snails, gathering and cooking, 22–23

      social acceptance in France, 44–47

      socialists, 210, 216

      Socrates, 285

      solar calendar, proposed by Comte, 198–99

      Something Wholesale (Newby), 8

      Soupault, Philippe, 269

      Souris Verte, La, or The Green Mouse, 112–14, 113, 116

      Sous les toits de Paris, or Under the Roofs of Paris, 149

      Southern, Ann, 145

      Soviet Russia, calendar reform in, 199

      Spectre de la rose, Le, 200, 203, 204

      Spielberg, Steven, 32, 192

      spring, arrival of, 200–201

     


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