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    The Barefoot Surgeon

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      would join his medical caravan. Rex Shore would tease them

      by calling them ‘The Princesses’ because they were so pretty, as well as being tonnes of fun. Both are still working by Ruit’s side in the operating theatre. Despite their gentle voices, they run a trim ship.

      Dr Reeta Gurung, the current CEO of Tilganga, was also

      tapped on the shoulder. Gurung was cut from the same cloth

      as Ruit, having grown up in a small rural village with no

      school. She had the same focus and determination as Ruit

      and forged a reputation as a brilliant surgeon, with a steady, 96

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      even temperament that earned her the nickname ‘Cool- hand

      Gurung.’

      ‘I burst into tears when he asked me to join his band of

      outlaws,’ she says. ‘There was no doubt in my mind that

      I was going to work for him, and it was going to lead to great things. Ruit was working on the new technique and we knew

      it would be a breakthrough. Our aim was simple. To avoid

      the papers and protocols. To get away from the system and

      just go out and do it. That’s what united us all.’

      And of course, there was his ever- faithful right- hand man,

      Rex Shore.

      With the team first assembled, they did the work under-

      cover. No fanfare. No permission asked. They just did it. Ruit didn’t even tell Fred Hollows that he’d started doing the new intraocular lens surgery at the camps. ‘Nobody knew about

      it,’ Ruit says. ‘I started in a very quiet way. If I’d let people know about it, they would have killed me.’

      Meanwhile, Shore would hire any transport he could find

      to reach the most underprivileged villages. These were usually battered old buses from India with dodgy engines, worn old

      tyres, with a top speed of about 30 kilometres an hour. They

      christened one rattling old jeep from Russia ‘Khrushchev’,

      and another from China ‘Mao’. At one stage, they hired a

      tractor to drive their surgical equipment up to a village at

      the top of the mountain.

      They’d always start the night before, packing all the

      equipment they’d need to set up their makeshift surgeries:

      anaesthetics, syringes, green surgical drapes, face masks, caps, rolls of gauze, scalpels, forceps, sutures and medical tape,

      and black plastic to line the walls for hygiene. Also, boxes of 97

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      donated intraocular lenses, and, if they were lucky, some basic microscopes. If the region they were going to had no electricity, they would bundle a generator onto the bus as well.

      The jeep or bus was often so cramped that they had to take

      turns riding on the roof. Anyone unlucky enough to be on the

      top had to grip the rails as they teetered on the cliff’s edge, just inches away from precipitous drops below. Ruit sat on

      the roof a couple of times, but was usually inside, nursing a precious microscope on his lap.

      It was a terrifying way to travel, swinging wildly around

      hairpin bends with crumbling cliff edges, brightly decorated

      buses bearing down on them from the opposite direction with

      their musical horns blaring. Both vehicles would come to a

      shuddering halt as they negotiated who would go around the

      bend first. Often there were no road barriers, and the roads

      were scenes of carnage. Buses and trucks that had plummeted

      over the edge were a frequent sight.

      One tragic night, a bus rolled off a cliff nearby and injured passengers had been brought to a local clinic. Ruit and his

      team rushed in to find about 30 people lying quietly in a

      room on tables. ‘Many were quiet because they were dead,’

      recalls Dick Litwin, the Californian doctor whom Ruit had

      befriended years earlier.

      Safety improved when they managed to scrounge enough

      money to buy an old bus of their own. Shore adapted it by

      pulling out the back seats for the equipment.

      Ruit and his team relied on word of mouth to notify locals

      about the outreach camps. They would let the local police

      station, radio station and school know which day they were

      arriving. The boy scouts would go door- to- door.

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      Ruit’s team would spend the first day setting up a camp,

      using anything from local clinics, veterinary clinics, school houses and monasteries as operating theatres. Once or twice

      during the Nepalese Civil War between 1996 and 2006, when

      a group of rebels known as the Maoists tried to overthrow

      the Nepalese monarchy, the team even used rebel army posts.

      Once they had established an impromptu theatre, they

      would brush out the cobwebs, sweep out the dung and the

      straw, tape plastic over the ceiling to prevent any mice or rats in the roof from falling onto the operating table, and tape

      up the windows with heavy cloth or newspaper. They would

      swab the place down with antiseptic. If there was nothing else available, kitchen tables or school desks were borrowed, and

      placed end to end, to use as operating tables.

      The recovery rooms were just as rustic. After their opera-

      tions, the patients were often laid out on crude beds of straw in barns or cowsheds. At night, the team would sleep in tents, barns, haylofts or as guests with local families.

      Ruit started off quietly, doing a handful of intraocular

      lens surgeries at each camp. As his confidence grew, he did

      more and more, so that eventually almost all the operations

      used the new technique. ‘I went very, very slowly, to make

      absolutely certain there were no mistakes. The pressure to

      succeed was intense. It was like living on a knife’s edge. I had so many critics in the ophthalmic world that I knew I could

      not make the tiniest mistake,’ he says. He knew that what he

      was doing—providing high- quality, inexpensive eye surgery

      in one of the most underprivileged countries in the world—

      was a grand experiment. If he could do it in Nepal, it could

      be done anywhere.

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      The backlog was immense. No one knows why the rate of

      cataracts is so high in Nepal. It might have to do with diet

      or altitude, or exposure to sunlight. The lack of access to

      doctors, clinics and medical help certainly made the problem

      worse. As did the prevalent belief that cataracts were an inevitable part of ageing.

      ‘There is a saying in many of the villages: first your hair

      goes white, then your eyes go white, then you die,’ Ruit says.

      ‘It’s a fatalistic acceptance of blindness that we are still trying to educate a lot of villagers about.’

      Ruit rang Hollows after he felt confident with the results

      he was getting. He remembers the long pause at the end of

      the line as Hollows digested the news. ‘You’re doing IOLs out in the bush, Sanduk? Jesus f- - cking Christ, what about the

      f- - king infection rates?’

      The truth was, the infection rates were extremely low,

      lower than in the hospitals, in fact, even though he didn’t

      have surgical gloves and they were operatin
    g on dirt floors.

      Ruit’s team sterilised every piece of equipment scrupulously, endlessly swabbing them with alcohol or washing them in

      steam sterilisers that looked like giant pressure cookers. The highest risk of infection after eye surgery is if the wound or cut in the eye from the surgery is not well constructed and

      ends up leaking. If it seals properly and is completely water-tight, as Ruit ensured, then the risk of infection was very low.

      Fred and Gabi Hollows were so impressed by Ruit’s results

      in the field that they donated a new Toyota LandCruiser,

      which Rex named Hilda, after the valiant Nordic Valkyrie.

      ‘She was a good and faithful vehicle,’ he says. ‘She lived up to her name, battling blindness in the mountains of Nepal.’

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      At every camp, usually funded by Ruit’s support groups

      in Australia and Nepal, two or three hundred blind people

      would make their way to the screening tables for help. Shore, a highly methodical man, was horrified to see the more desperate patients pushing and shoving to get in for surgery. ‘There were hundreds and hundreds of patients, and it was so chaotic.

      There was no system about it at all, it was just madness.’

      NEPA printed forms for Shore, enabling him to list each

      patient’s name, address, as well as their screening and operation results. Everything else was recorded in exercise books.

      They worked out a way to explain to the patients what was

      going to happen to them—an early form of counselling that

      is a mainstream part of hospitals today. After the operations, they would drum into the patients how important follow- up

      care was; that they had to take their eye drops, and come

      back for a check- up a few weeks later.

      There was an incredible energy, gusto and pace to

      the camps. Morale was high. It’s easy to understand why

      someone from the Walunga tribe would love being outdoors,

      up in the foothills or the mountains, with the wind on his

      face, and the sun on his back, helping the people who needed

      his help the most. It’s where Ruit felt he belonged. Here, he was not seen as an interloper or a troublemaker. Out here

      he was mobbed by patients, and sometimes even revered as

      a god. Nanda says that today, more than three decades later,

      her husband’s idea of a perfect holiday remains ‘somewhere

      picturesque in the mountains where he can do 70 cataract

      surgeries a day, and for the whole family to come along

      with him’.

      Over the next ten years, Ruit’s team travelled to every

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      corner of Nepal, India, China and Bhutan. They performed

      the new intraocular surgery on every person who could make

      it to their microsurgical camps, no matter what caste or tribe, no matter how rich or poor. They operated on the Brahmin,

      Chetri and Newari people, as well as the Sherpa, Rai, Gurung, Tamang, Limbu, Tharu and Madhesi. They operated on single

      mothers, children, grandfathers, farmers, teachers—even,

      during the ten- year civil war, on rebel soldiers. They operated on the downtrodden and the deaf, even the untouchables (the

      lowest caste in India).

      In many remote regions, such as Tibet, Mustang and

      Bhutan, the locals often came up to touch Ruit on the arm, or they took his hand and placed it on top of their head as a form of blessing. They’d ask him to bless their children, or request a lock of his hair. They’d prostrate before him on the ground, or stick their tongues out reverentially. (The practice of sticking out one’s tongue began, as legend has it, because an evil king in Tibet had a black tongue; out of respect, the Tibetans often stick out their tongues to show they are not evil.)

      They regarded Ruit as a miracle worker because they felt

      he had given them their lives back.

      There was nothing mystical about the procedure, though.

      It was a thoroughly modern one. The real miracle was giving

      them the same advantages as anyone else in the world.

      ~

      The work Ruit had committed himself to was physically

      exhausting, however. He and his team made house calls that

      sometimes involved trudging uphill for days with a portable

      surgery strapped to the back of packhorses.

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      ‘I knew my exit from the eye hospital was like walking on a

      sword’s edge. I accepted that challenge. I talked about it with Nanda. For me, it’s just how the world works. When something is a struggle, rather than a smooth ride, it makes you

      very strong. I knew the best way was to just go out and do

      it, and do everything so well that it proved everyone wrong.

      When you have people who are critical of you, it makes you

      do things properly. It’s the best kind of challenge. In a way, I was always used to being against the crowd. I knew I had

      the strength to face the worst.’

      What Ruit wasn’t prepared for was that the criticism would

      go on unrelentingly for years, and how it would corrode his

      health. Not long after he’d started running the microsurgical camps, a group of senior doctors wrote a letter to the prime

      minister, Girija Prasad Koirala, complaining that Ruit had

      no right to be doing intraocular lens surgery in the mountain villages without having done a clinical trial. Fortunately, Ruit had been asked to operate on the prime minister’s eye shortly after they sent their letter. As Koirala came into Ruit’s clinic, he said with an amused look on his face, ‘I see your friends

      have been complaining about you again, Dr Ruit?’ Nothing

      more came of it.

      The undermining led to long bouts of insomnia. ‘I’d pace

      around the flat, trying to work out a solution, and a long-

      term plan,’ recalls Ruit. ‘I knew there were a lot of people

      who would criticise and even put me in jail if anything

      went wrong.’

      His blood pressure soared sky- high under so much stress.

      His doctor prescribed anti- hypertensive medication. He was

      still smoking and drinking heavily.

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      So, who did he lean on in times of adversity? Nanda

      remained a bedrock. ‘I simply could not have done what I did

      without Nanda behind me. She’s always been there by my

      side. There’s nothing quite like that sort of undying support and love; it got me through many tough times.’

      He would ring Rex Shore in moments of despair as well.

      He would sound exhausted, saying he wasn’t sure if he could

      go on for much longer. All Shore could say was that he just

      had to keep going, because what he was doing was absolutely

      right. (Shore stayed working in Nepal on a modest retainer

      for more than 27 years before retiring to Australia. He had

      dedicated most of his working life to what he called ‘The

      Cause’ and the man he called affectionately ‘Dr Sahib’ or

      ‘respected doctor’.)

      Ruit continued to find great strength from two Buddhist

      teachers in particular: the late 3rd Jamgon Kongtrul and

      Gyalwang Rinpoche. Both had come into his hospital seeking


      help for some of their blind monks. Both had arrived quietly, without any fanfare. Both were deeply moved as they watched

      him work, and by the compassion he showed the poor. They

      invited him to their temples, to give him their blessings and empowerments.

      Unlike his father, Ruit did not do formal practice by sitting at a shrine, or saying mantras and prayers with his wooden

      prayer beads. His approach was more one of integrating

      one of the central Buddhist principles—being of benefit to

      others—into his everyday life. Ever since his sister Yangla

      had died, Ruit had been determined to make a difference in

      the world. Bringing high- quality medicine to the people who

      needed him the most was his way of doing that.

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      For Ruit, the best part of the trips was coming home. Right

      from the start, he was determined to balance his professional and personal life by spending quality time with his family.

      Ruit’s family were still living in their cramped apartment

      under his father’s home near the Bagmati River. The living

      room was 3 x 4 metres, and next to it was a bedroom with two

      beds; one for Nanda and Ruit, and another for the children.

      In 1991, two years after Sagar was born, Nanda gave birth

      to a girl, whom they called Serabla, or ‘Sera’ for short. They were overjoyed with their good fortune. Five years later they had another daughter, Satenla. They were to live in that small space for almost 20 years, so that Ruit could save his money

      for the outreach camps.

      Ruit used a small alcove off the main room as his study,

      just large enough for a small desk, a small television, and all his medical textbooks. Upstairs was a kitchen they shared

      with Ruit’s parents, and the bathroom was outside. The

      concrete balcony overlooked a petrol station and the stench

      from the pollution from the river was often so unbearable in

      the late evenings that they had to shut the windows, making

      it swelteringly hot and dark.

      ‘It was already a small place, but, as the children grew up,

      space got very tight and it started to feel more like a store-room than an apartment. We were really feeling a bit pressed

      in,’ Ruit admits.

      By the mid ’90s, when the camps were in full swing, Sagar

      had grown into a curious five- year- old, eager to explore the world. He was the apple of his mother’s eye. Three- year- old Serabla charmed them as she pranced about the house, telling

     


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