The First Crossing of the Empty Quarter
Salim Tamtaim
Sultan
Musallim bin Tafl
Mabkhaut
of the Bait Kahir
Bin Turkia
Bin Anauf (son of bin Turkia)
Said
Salim bin Kabina
Muhammad al Auf
Amair
of the Rashid
Mahsin
Salim bin Mautlauq
Bin Shuas
The Journey from Salala to Mukalla
Bin Kalut
Musallim bin al Kamam
Muhammad (son of Bin Kalutand
half brother to Salim bin Kabina
of the Rashid
Salim bin Kabina
Salim bin Ghabaisha
Salim bin Mautlauq
Mabkhaut
Bin Turkia
of the Bait Kahir
Bin Anauf
Bin Duailan (nicknamed ‘The Cat’)
of the Manahil
1947–8
The Second Crossing of the Empty Quarter
Salim bin Kabina
Salim bin Ghabaisha
Muhammad
Amair
Salih
Sadr
}
}
of the Rashid
of the Saar
1948–9
The Journey to Liwa
Salim bin Kabina
Salim bin Ghabaisha
Musallim bin al Kamam
Amair
Bin Tahi
}
of the Rashid
The Journey through Oman
Salim bin Kabina
Musallim bin al Kamam
Bin Tahi
Al Jabari
Mahalhal
}
}
of the Rashid
of the Awamir
Hamaid
of the Mahra
Salim bin Habarut
of the Junuba
Ahmad
Sultan
} of the Wahiba
Yasir
of the Junuba
Huaishil
of the Duru
1949–50
The Journey in Oman
Salim bin Kabina
Salim bin Ghabaisha
Muhammad
Bin Tahi
} of the Bait Kathir
Al Jabari
of the Awamir
Huaishil
of the Duru
Index
Abal, 124, 130, 163, 228, 230, 307
Abd al Aziz ibn Saud. See ibn Saud, King
Abdullah bin Nura. See bin Maiqal
Abdullah, one-eyed, of the Rashid: 206; anxiety over raiders, 207
Abha, 75, 245
Abhebad, Lake, 29
Abida, the: 185, 207; raiders from, 217; wounded from, 218; fight with, 280
Abr, al: 212; raids around, 216
Abu Bahr, plain of, 232
Abu Dhabi: 142, 153, 155, 156, 157, 245, 246; weariness on journey to, 259; arrival at, 262: stay in, 263–7; second visit to, 280–2
Abyssinia: Great Rebellion of 1916 in, 20; Haile Selassie’s coronation, 21; exploration in, 21ff.; campaign in, during World War II, 37–8
Abyssinians, ancestors of, 109, 198
Acacia, 87, 179, 192, 274
Ad, lost city of, 236
Adaaimara, the, 25
Adam, 313
Addax, 34
Addis Ababa, 13
Adnan, 96, 171
Adobada, Lake, 29
Aelius Gallus, 44
Afar, the: 175, 320; sick tribesman from, 192–3; guide from, 302
Aflaj, 309
Africa, central, 109
Ahl al Hadara, the, 47
Ahmad, of the Saar, 204, 205, 208
Ahmad, of the Wahiba, 304, 309, 310
Ahsaba, Wadi al, 75
Aidam, Wadi, 258
Ailqi, 228
Ain, al, spring, 81, 184
Ain, al, Wadi: 78, 172, 184, 298; wrongly marked on map, 196
Aiwat al Saar, the, 206
Aiyun, pool of, 83, 188, 190
Ajman, the, 93
Akaki plains, 29
Akhadar, Jabal al: 175, 182, 311, 316; desire to explore, 319; turned back from, 324–5
Akhwan, the, 239, 249
Al bu Falah, the, 114, 124, 153, 156, 162, 267, 282, 295
Al bu Shams, the, 295, 318, 325
Al bu Said dynasty, 273
Al Hiya, the, 306
Al Kathir, the, 82
Aleppo, 37
Alhambra, 99
Ali, of the Duru, 172-3, 299
AH, of the Hatim, 216-18 passim
AH bin Hilal. See bin Hilal
AH bin Said. See bin Said
AH bin Sulaiman. See bin Sulaiman
Amair, of the Rashid: 77, 103, 219; quarrel with bin Mautlauq, 111–12; joins Umbarak at Tamis well, 212; presented with rifle before Western Sands crossing, 224; ruthlessness of, 225–6; remains at Buraimi, 294
Amairi, al, Wadi, 174, 175, 176
Amir, of Salaiyil: 238–9, 245; of the Wadi, 242–3
Andam, Wadi, 307, 310, 311
Andhur: 179; ruins at, 191
Arab, al Araba: 91; al Mustaraba, 91
Arabia: early civilizations in, 44; rainfall on south coast, 47; breaking down of tribal life in, 92-7; wealth from oil, 95
Arabia Felix, 39, 44, 91
Arabic: 47, 51–2; as great cultural language, 98–9.
Arabs: system of government among, 46–7; treatment of slaves, 77–8; dress, 80; attitude to camels, 83–4 (see also Camels); feeding habits, 86, 162; generosity to guests, 89, 166–7; burial sites, 90–1; number of, in Arabia, 91; racial divisions of, 91–2; effect of desert life on, 96–7; influence on world history, 97–9; greetings, 101–2; effect of thirst on, 153; attitude to women, 194–5, 270–1; divorce among, 194; attitude to bastards, 194; circumcision among, 78, 103–6, 124, 162; feuds between tribes, 107–8; admiration for modern architecture, 209–10; indifference to pain, 255; as sailors, 277–8. See also Bedu
Arad, 111, 301
Aradh escarpment, the, 221, 232, 236, 239, 242
Arussi Mountains, 23
Ass, wild, 162, 274
Assaaimara, the, 25
Assal basin, the, 30
Assir, the, 17
Assyria, 92
Aswad, al, Wadi, 175, 322
Attila, 98
Auf, Muhammad al, of the Rashid: description, 101, 102–3; and proposed crossing of the Empty Quarter, 110, 114, 116, 118; on the Al bu Falah, 124; agrees to go on, 132; offered rifles, 133; leads way across Empty Quarter, 134ff.; recites from Koran, 137; interest in depth of rainfall, 140; reconnoitres sand-dunes, 144; as guide over sand-dunes, 14–6ff.; on thirst, 153; on difficulties of concealing Umbarak, 156; and journey to Mukalla, 184; and preparations against attack, near Fughama, 199–200
Augustus, Emperor, 44
Aussa, 27–9
Awamir, the: 67, 68, 152, 156, 206, 208, 209, 270; inquisitiveness, 157
Awash, River, 21, 23
Baboons, 75
Babylonia, 92
Badayat, 35
Badgers, honey, 260
Bagara, the, 31
Baghila, 276
Bahdu, 25–6
Bahlah, 323
Bahr alSafi, the, 118, 298
Bahrain, journey to, by dhow, 276–9
Bai: 114, 124, 177; distance from Mughshin to, 141–2; reunion at, 178
Baish, Wadi, 75
Bait al Sheikh, the, 190
Bait Imani, the, 68, 122, 134–5
Bait Kathir, the: 47, 49–50; attitude to Christians, 50–3; dialect of, 52; prayer among, 54–5; as guides on Salala-Mughshin journey, 77ff.; as animal owners, 88; jealousy of the Rashid, 110, 111; and proposed crossing of the Empty Quarter, 116; love of news, 124; turn back from Empty Quarter, 133, 134; refusal to cross, 178; avarice of, 205
&nbs
p; Bait Khawar, the, 184, 195–6
Bait Musan, the, 77; changing of camels with, 116, 120, 122, 126, 128 ff.
Bait Qatan, 82
Bait Saad, 82
Bakhit al Dahaimi. See Dahaimi, al
Balagh well, 157, 164, 261
Baluchi, encampment of, 311–12
Bani Ad, the, 236
Bani Hilal, the, 75, 93
Bani Kitab, the, 268, 274, 318
Bani Maradh, the, 233–4
Bani Ramh, sands of, 237
Bani Yas, the: 156, 161, 261, 262, 270, 271–2; uncouthness and selfishness of, 288
Barbary sheep. See Sheep
Bardai, 36
Barida well, 312
Barton, Sir Sydney, 21–2
Batha Bidiya, the, 309
Batha, Wadi, 306, 308–9
Batin, the, 157
Bedu, the: nature of, 50–1, 62–3, 64; daily life among, 54ff.; attitude to their camels, 56–9, 83–4; love of conversation and news, 61–2, 86, 136, 170, 178; coffee-drinking, 60; smoking, 60; camping habits, 60–2; breadmaking, 61; skill at reading camel tracks, 65–6, 208; generosity of, 64, 71, 79; Southern Bedu contrasted with Northern Bedu, 68; love of poetry, 87; numbers of, in Arabia, 91; moral and physical ascendancy of, 93; tribal society, 94–5; attitude to money, 95, 96, 167; effect of oil discovery on, 95–6; refusal to eat hare, 111; enjoyment of arguments and disputes, 112, 252; cauterizing as remedy for ailments, 112–13; hamrar remedy, 113; attitude to food, 113, 176; gregariousness of, 120–1; vigour of, 124–5; swearing by, 124–6; reality of God to, 142; regard for human dignity, 168; ease with which offended, 163; indifference to human life, 193, 225–6; keen observation of, 233, 308; refusal to express opinion on weather, 246; strong position of outlaws among warring sheikhs, 281–2; division of spoil after raids, 288; preference for hard nomadic life, 327–8; their way of life doomed, 329–30
Bent, Theodore and Mabel, 46
Bernard, Capitaine, 30
Bianchi, 24
bin Abdullah al Khalili. See Oman, Iman of
bin Aisa, Salih, Sheikh of the Harth, 310
bin al Kamam, Musallim, sheikh of the Rashid: 67, 72, 73, 77, 103, 125, 126, 185, 298; and proposed truce with the Damn, 187–8; asked to join in crossing of Western Sands, 203; unable to join, 207; describes effort to kill Umbarak after Manwakh, 228; mistrust of the Dura, 300
bin Anauf, of the Bait Kathir: 81, 85, 132; reunion with, at Bai, 178; and journey to Mukalla, 184
bin Arbain, Mabkhaut, of the Bait Kathir, 78, 85, 123, 132; his family, 88; and Empty Quarter crossing, 114; and journey to Mukalla, 184
bin Duailan, of the Manahil (‘The Cat’): 103, 185–6; description of, 187–8; personality of, 192; and proposed attack on the Dahm near Fughama, 199–200; attacks on government posts, 204; killed in raid on the Yam, 207; account of his death, 243–5
bin Duailan, Jumaan, brother of ‘The Cat’: 287; steals camels, 304
bin Ghabaisha, Salim, of the Rashid: description of, 188; as hunter, 188–9, 191, 192, 194, 225, 227–8, 274; his brother, 191; and preparations for attack near Fughama, 200; asked to join in crossing of Western Sands, 203; unable to join, 207; with father at Mudhail, 209; is flown to Riyan and driven to Saiwun, 210–11; buys black camel from the bin Maaruf, 215; competence of, 225–6; night in the stocks, 241, 243; finds Dhiby well, 258; accidentally knocked out, 267; collects ten shillings from Sultan of Muscat, 271; steals Riqaishi’s servant, 318; remains at Buraimi, 294; agrees to join Jabal al Akhadar exploration, 319; attack of fever, 322; stays with Europeans in Dibai, 325; becomes brigand on the Trucial Coast, 328
Hamaid, 295, 296, 299; makes trouble, 301–2
bin Hamyar, Sulaiman, sheikh of the Bani Riyam, 316, 319, 323–4
bin Hanna, Hamad, sheikh of the Rashid: 152, 155, 157; as guide to Ibri, 163; returns home, 175
bin Hilal, Ali, sheikh of the Duru, 320, 321–2
bin Jalawi. See ibn Jalawi
bin Kabina, Salim, of the Rashid: 69–74; shoots at raiders, 72; at Shishur, 101, 103, 105–6; and proposed crossing of the Empty Quarter, 110, 114, 121, 122, 123; agrees to go on, 131–2; leads way. across, 135; gives away his loincloth, 136–7; as cook, 142, 150–1, 166, 230; fails to buy stores in Liwa, 157–9; and journey to Mukalla, 184; sudden illness, 189; and preparations for attack near Fughama, 200; and parting at Mukalla, 201–2; invited to join Western Sands crossing, 203, 206–7; collapse of camel after 900-mile ride, 209; welcome from, at Manwakh, 213–14; buys camel from the bin Maaruf, 215; preparations for the crossing, 222–4; loses two camels to the Abida, 226; put in stocks, 240–1; accompanies Umbarak to Dam, 240–1; collects ten shillings from Sultan of Muscat, 271; hunts tahr, 274; rejoins Umbarak at Muwaiqih, 281 harrying of Bani Kitab, 281, 284; begs for release of saiyld, 282; goes to collect camels at Dhafara, 288; hands over camel, 304; accompanies on journey to the Wadi Batha, 307–8; gives away new shirt, 314–15; agrees to join Jabal al Akhadar exploration, 319; attack of fever, 322; stays with Europeans in Dibai, 325; returns to Habarut, 328
bin Kalut, sheikh of the Rashid: 179; as guide for Mukalla journey, 182; decision as to Dahm-Rashid truce, 187-8; on trouble with the Bait Khawar, 195–6
bin Kharas, Sulaiman, sheikh of the Duru, 300; orders Umbarak out of Dura country,– 319
bin Maaruf Saar, the, 213, 214; fear of attack by Yam, 212, 213; greeting from, at Manwakh, 213; return of scouts, 216
bin Madhi, Amir of Najram, 245, 280
bin Maiqal (Abdullah bin Nura), of the bin Maaruf Saar, 212–14, 219
bin Maktum of Dibai, the, 114, 153, 282
bin Mautlauq, Salim, of the Rashid: 101, 106; quarrel with Amair, 112; reported death of, in raid, 217–18; wounded, 280: bin Murzuk, of the Abida, 207, 217, 219 pursuit of, 217
bin Nura, Andullah. See bin Maiqal
bin Rashid al Kharusi, Salim, former Imam of Oman, 273
bin Said bin Rashid, Ali, sheikh of the Yahahif: 311–12; his wives, 312
bin Saiyid Muhammad, Ahmad, release of, 282–3
bin Shuas, of the Rashid, 101, 106, 110, 114
bin Sulaiman, Ali, of the Hatim, 212
bin Sultan, Zayid: 266, 268–71, 274, 281; help given to Bird, 272; agrees to help Umbarak to explore Oman, 274; further hospitality from, 287; hawking with, 288–94; helps Umbarak to enter Oman, 295; final stay with, 325
bin Tafl, Musallim, of the Bait Kathir: 61, 65, 78, 79, 81; as hunter, 113, 124, 189; as cook, 113, 123, 139, 142, 158; and cure for constipation, 113; conversation of, 124; and crossing of the Empty Quarter, 124; agrees to go on, 132; jealousy of al Auf, 145; fear of travelling in Duru country, 160–1; blood-feud with Mahras, 184
bin Tahi, of the Rashid: 283; reads the sands, 302–3; annoys the Ibadhi, 314; attack of fever, 322; agrees to join Jabal al Akhadar exploration, 319
bin Timur, Saiyid Said. See Muscat, Sultan of
bin Tanas, sheikh of the Manahil, 199, 200
bin Turkia, Salim of the Bait Kathir: 78, 81, 85, 127
bin Turkia, Salim of the Bait Kathir: 78, 81, 85, 127; and proposed crossing of the Empty Quarter, 114; wishes to go on, 132; reunion with, at Bai, 178; and journey to Mukalla, 184
Bir Halu, 65, 120, 122
Bir Natrum, wells of, 32
Bird, Dick, 269, 272
Birkat al Mauz, 316–17, 319, 323
Boom, 276
Boscawen, T. M., 204
Buraimi : journey to, 267; control of villages in, 271–2; occupied by Wahabis, 271
Bustard, MacQueen’s, hunting of, 290–4
Butterflies, 48, 130
Camels: in the Danakil country, 25, 31; in the Sudan, 32; in Arabia, 56–60; Omani type saddles, 37; recognition of tracks, 66, 225; food for, 79, 111; milk, 79; attachment to Bedu owners, 83–4; watering of, 100, 126, 129, 156, 219, 222; stampede of, 109–10; choice of, for crossing Empty Quarter, 114; kicking by, 114; poor condition
of, 118, 254–5; grazing for, 118, 127–9, 258; cast a calf, 127; mating of, 135–6; milking of, 79, 136, 231; fall, on steep slope, 138; exhaustion of, 148–9, 229, 235; hunger and thirst of, 151; of the Manasir, 164; inability to walk straight, 176; killing of, for food, 176; for drawing well-ropes, 206; litters on, for transport of small children, 213; loading of, 224; patience of, 253; ulcers on, 254–5; Batina, 267; Banat Farha, 267; Banat al Hamm, 267; Bedu killed by bull camel, 280; division of, after raid, 287–8
Caper bushes, 87
Castration, 21, 24, 255
Cat, wild, 162
Cattle. See Cows
Cauterizing, to cure ailments, 112–13
Caves used by Qarra, 48, 81
Cheesman, Colonel R.E., 21, 116, 251
Chercher Mountains, 24
Circumcision. See Arabs
Codrai, Ronald, 325
Coffee, as made by the Saar, 205–6
Cold, in the desert: 136, 144, 148, 213, 227, 320, 322
Coot, 179
Cows, 48, 88
Cox, Sir Percy, 273
Crocodiles, 22, 29
Dagger, 81, 187, 263, 324
Dahaimi, Bakhit al, of the Rashid, 107, 166, 168, 175, 266
Dahal well, 198
Dahm, the: 67, 103, 185–6; raids by, 72–4, 124, 182, 186–8, 200; truce with the Rashid, 185; break trace, 186–7; fail to overtake and kill Umbarak, 228; one man from, living among the Yam, 245; renewal of truce with Rashid, 280
Dahana sands, 252, 253
Dakaka sands, 126, 146, 216
Dam, 240
Damascus, 37
Danakil, the, 21, 22–6, 28, 29
Danakil desert, 21, 24
Darbat, pools of, 179