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    L.A. Son

    Page 26
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      Choi, Roy

      attends Culinary Institute of America, 185, 199–206

      Chevy Blazer automobile, 103–7

      childhood birthday parties, 13–14

      college years, 123–28

      detox in Mission Viejo, 176–77

      early childhood, 5–17

      eating and drinking in Los Angeles, 150–51, 179–84

      elementary school years, 34

      externship at Le Bernardin, 208–17

      financial problems, 153–57

      gambling activities, 142–50, 152–57

      high school years, 93–107

      junior high school years, 79–85

      Korean taco food truck, 294–97

      parents’ backgrounds, 6–9

      parents’ jewelry business, 47–59

      and Salvador’s goats, 234–37

      Silver Garden restaurant years, 27–37

      Times Square YMCA experience, 128–31

      Villa Park years, 73–85

      work at de Anza Country Club, 237–39

      work at Embassy Suites, 240–41, 246–47

      work at First Investors, 177–78, 181, 185

      work at Kaishoku Michiba, 244–45

      work at La Casa del Zorro, 230–34

      work at Pan Pacific Hotel, 245–46

      work at RockSugar, 272–79

      work at the Beverly Hilton, 247–49, 271–72

      work options after RockSugar, 279–81

      work with Chef Michiba, 241–44

      Choi Family Treehouse, 32–34

      Choi Jewelry, 59

      Chorizo and Eggs, 64–66, 65

      Chowder, Coconut Clam, 224, 225

      Cilantro

      Salsa Verde, 119, 119

      Salsa Verde for Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300

      That’s So Sweet, 91

      Cinnamon

      Ghetto Pillsbury Fried Doughnuts, 134–35, 134–35

      Horchata, 120

      City Café (restaurant), 151

      Clam(s)

      Abalone Porridge, 20, 21

      Chowder, Coconut, 224, 225

      Clark, Patrick, 207

      Clifton’s Cafeteria (restaurant), 57

      Cobb Salad, Easy de Anza, 257

      Coconut milk

      Cardamom Milk Shaved Ice, 287, 287

      Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce, 284–85

      Coconut Clam Chowder, 224, 225

      Coconut Rice, 286

      Eggplant Curry over Rice, 282, 283

      Windowpane Smoothies, 67

      Commerce Casino, 149

      Condiments

      Kimchi, 18, 19

      Magic Fish Dip, 86, 87

      Red Onion Marmalade, 255

      Salsa Verde, 119, 119

      Salsa Verde for Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300

      Sesame-Soy Salad Dressing, 310

      Splash, 121

      That’s So Sweet, 91

      Cookies, Chinatown Almond, 69

      Corn

      L.A. Corner on the Cob, 302, 303

      Crème Brûlée, 292

      Cucumbers

      Instant Pickled, 42, 43

      Salted Mango and Cukes, 322

      Culinary Institute of America (CIA), 185, 199–206

      Cultural rules, Korean, 331

      Curing, note about, 307

      Curry, Eggplant, over Rice, 282, 283

      D

      Daikon radishes

      about, 329

      Spam Bánh Me, 288, 289

      Daniel (restaurant), 207

      Dean, Garrett, 96

      DeGeneres, Ellen, 246

      DeSantis, Ron, 203–5

      Desserts

      Butter Pineapple, 322

      Cardamom Milk Shaved Ice, 287, 287

      Chinatown Almond Cookies, 69

      Crème Brûlée, 292

      Ghetto Pillsbury Fried Doughnuts, 134–35, 134–35

      Pecan Pie, 70, 71

      Salted Mango and Cukes, 322

      Dips

      Chips and, 90

      Fish, Magic, 86, 87

      Dirty Dog, L.A., 309, 309

      Doenjang, about, 329

      Dong II Jang (restaurant), 13

      Doughnuts, Ghetto Pillsbury Fried, 134–35, 134–35

      Drinks

      Horchata, 120

      My Milk Shake, 162, 163

      Windowpane Smoothies, 67

      Duck

      Breast, Crispy, with Polenta and Sweet and Sour Mango Sauce, 253, 253–54

      Fat Fries, Twice-Cooked, 22

      Dumpling Time, 38–39, 39

      Dumpling wrappers, about, 330

      E

      Eggplant Curry over Rice, 282, 283

      Egg(s)

      Abalone Porridge, 20, 21

      Asparagus, 312, 313

      Chorizo and, 64–66, 65

      Easy de Anza Cobb Salad, 257

      Fried Rice, Yuzu Glazed Shrimp over, 194

      Ketchup Fried Rice, 136, 137

      Korean Carpaccio (Sort of), 40, 41

      Perfect Instant Ramen, 132, 133

      Pork Fried Rice, 158, 159–61

      Zucchini Fritter Omelet, 320, 321

      The Ellen DeGeneres Show, 246

      El Taurino (restaurant), 181

      Embassy Suites, 240–41, 246–47, 267

      F

      Fama, Vinnie, 203

      Feninger, Sue, 151

      First Investors Corporation, 177–78, 181, 185

      Fish. See also Anchovy(ies); Shellfish

      Broiled Halibut with Soy Glaze, 269

      Dip, Magic, 86, 87

      the Fonz, 12, 17

      Frank (high school friend), 83

      French Onion Soup, 263

      Fries, Twice-Cooked Duck Fat, 22

      Fruit. See also specific fruits

      canned, cooking with, 330

      Roll Ups and Downs, 88

      Windowpane Smoothies, 67

      G

      Garlic

      buying, 328

      Kimchi, 18, 19

      Roasted Mushrooms, 316

      Spaghetti Junction: The $4 Spaghetti That Tastes Almost as Good as the $24 Spaghetti, 166, 167–69

      That’s So Sweet, 91

      Gates, Mrs., 238–39

      Gehr, Frank, 96

      Ghetto Pillsbury Fried Doughnuts, 134–35, 134–35

      Ginger, cooking with, 328

      Goat

      Birria, 250, 251–52

      and Yellow Rice Stew, 112, 113–14

      Grains. See Polenta; Rice

      Gramercy Tavern (restaurant), 207

      Greens

      Caesar Salad, 264, 265

      Easy de Anza Cobb Salad, 257

      Pounded Pork Schnitzel, 226

      Quick Spinach Soup, 317, 317

      Grove Street Mob, 94–107

      Gumbo, 196, 197

      Gutierrez, Jesse, 203, 206

      H

      Hainan Chicken, Kind of, 290, 291

      Halibut, Broiled, with Soy Glaze, 269

      Happy Days, 17

      Herbs. See Cilantro; Thai basil

      Hibachi Steak Teppanyaki, 195

      Hodori Restaurant, 181

      Holzman, Daniel, 212–13, 217

      Horchata, 120

      Hurry Curry (restaurant), 181

      I

      Ice cream

      My Milk Shake, 162, 163

      Ingredients, 325–30

      canned fruit, 330

      daikon radish, 329

      doenjang, 329

      dried seaweed, 330

      dumpling wrappers, 330

      garlic, 328

      ginger, 328

      kochujang, 329

      kochukaru, 328

      maple syrup, 330

      rice, 325–27

      rice vinegar, 330

      scallions, 328

      sesame oil, 327–28

      soy sauce, 327

      spam, 330

      tofu, 329–30

      Ismail, Mohan, 274, 275, 277–79

      J

      Janzen, Steve, 99

      Jerky, Beef, 110, 111

      Johnnycakes (variation), 140

      Jones, Lou, 205


      Juan (at Le Bernardin), 210–12

      Juhn, Paul “Yogi,” 142, 178–81

      K

      Kaishoku Michiba (restaurant), 242, 244–45

      Kalbi Plate, 164, 165

      Kawai, Takayoshi, 244

      Kenneth (at La Casa del Zorro), 232–34

      Ketchup Fried Rice, 136, 137

      Khun, Sottha, 207

      Kimchi, 18, 19

      Brussels Sprouts and, 315, 315

      and Pork Belly Stuffed Pupusas, 304, 305–7

      Stew, 45

      Knight, Rey, 200

      Kobawoo House (restaurant), 181

      Kochujang, about, 329

      Kochukaru

      about, 328

      Kimchi, 18, 19

      Korean cultural rules, 331

      Korean taco food truck, 294–97

      Korea University, 124–27

      Kudra, Matt, 103

      Kung Pao Chicken Papi Style, 116, 117–18

      Kunz, Gray, 275

      L

      La Brea Bakery, 151

      La Casa del Zorro, 230–34

      Lagasse, Emeril, 184–85

      Lamb

      Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62

      La Technique (Pépin), 239

      Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62

      Le Bernardin (restaurant), 208–17, 269

      Le Cirque (restaurant), 207

      Lee, Danny, 328

      Le Grenouille (restaurant), 207

      Los Angeles

      Asian population in, 11

      Jewelry District, 48–50

      during 1960s, 9, 11

      West Anaheim region, 28–30, 36–37

      West Hollywood region, 15–16

      M

      Magic Fish Dip, 86, 87

      Main dishes

      Abalone Porridge, 20, 21

      Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300

      Birria, 250, 251–52

      Broiled Halibut with Soy Glaze, 269

      Carne Asada, 108, 109

      Casino Prime Rib, 170–71

      Cheese Pizza, Dough to Sauce, 138–39

      Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce, 284–85

      Chili Spaghetti, 24–25

      Chorizo and Eggs, 64–66, 65

      Coconut Clam Chowder, 224, 225

      Crispy Duck Breast with Polenta and Sweet and Sour Mango Sauce, 253, 253–54

      Easy de Anza Cobb Salad, 257

      Eggplant Curry over Rice, 282, 283

      French Onion Soup, 263

      Fried Ribs. What?!, 260, 261–62

      Gumbo, 196, 197

      Hainan Chicken, Kind of, 290, 291

      Hibachi Steak Teppanyaki, 195

      Kalbi Plate, 164, 165

      Ketchup Fried Rice, 136, 137

      Kimchi and Pork Belly Stuffed Pupusas, 304, 305–7

      Kimchi Stew, 45

      Korean Stained-Glass Fried Chicken, 192

      Korean-Style Braised Short Rib Stew, 186, 187

      Kung Pao Chicken Papi Style, 116, 117–18

      L.A. Dirty Dog, 309, 309

      Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62

      Mushroom Quesadillas, 266, 267–68

      Perfect Instant Ramen, 132, 133

      Pho for Dem Hos, 172–73

      Pork and Beans, 115

      Pork Fried Rice, 158, 159–61

      Pounded Pork Schnitzel, 226

      Roy’s Burger, 301

      Seared Beef Medallions with Sauce Robert, 220, 221

      Seared Scallops with Chive Beurre Blanc, 227

      Simple Chicken Piccata, 258–59

      Simple Club Sandwich, 256

      Soybean Paste Stew, 188, 189

      Spaghetti Junction: The $4 Spaghetti That Tastes Almost as Good as the $24 Spaghetti, 166, 167–69

      Spam Bánh Me, 288, 289

      Spicy Octopus, 190, 191

      Yellow Rice and Goat Stew, 112, 113–14

      Yuzu Glazed Shrimp over Egg Fried Rice, 194

      Zucchini Fritter Omelet, 320, 321

      Mango

      and Cukes, Salted, 322

      Sauce, Sweet and Sour, 253–54

      Windowpane Smoothies, 67

      Manguera, Mark, 281, 294–97

      Manny (CIA friend), 203, 206

      Maple syrup, buying, 330

      Marmalade, Red Onion, 255

      Matsuhisa, Nobu, 151

      Matsuhisa (restaurant), 151

      Meat. See also Beef; Pork

      Birria, 250, 251–52

      curing, note about, 307

      Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62

      Spam Bánh Me, 288, 289

      Veal Stock, 222–23

      Yellow Rice and Goat Stew, 112, 113–14

      The Meatball Shop (restaurant), 212

      Michiba, Rokusaburo, 241–44

      Milk

      Cardamom, Shaved Ice, 287, 287

      Horchata, 120

      Shake, My, 162, 163

      Milliken, Mary Sue, 151

      Mooring, Paul, 230–32

      Mountain Café (restaurant), 21

      Muller, Chris, 209, 210

      Murphy, Sandy, 246

      Mushroom(s)

      Kimchi Stew, 45

      Korean-Style Braised Short Rib Stew, 186, 187

      Quesadillas, 266, 267–68

      Roasted, 316

      N

      Nobu (restaurant), 207

      Noodles

      Perfect Instant Ramen, 132, 133

      Pho for Dem Hos, 172–73

      Normandie Casino, 148–49

      Nuts

      Chinatown Almond Cookies, 69

      Pecan Pie, 70, 71

      O

      OB Bear (restaurant), 181

      Octopus, Spicy, 190, 191

      Oil, sesame, about, 327–28

      Okra

      Gumbo, 196, 197

      Okura, Robert, 274–75

      Omelet, Zucchini Fritter, 320, 321

      One If by Land, Two If by Sea (restaurant), 207

      Onion

      Red, Marmalade, 255

      Soup, French, 263

      Ortega, Martin, 95–96

      Osmail, Mohan, 272

      Overton, David, 272–75

      Oysters

      Kimchi, 18, 19

      P

      Pag (in Grove Street Mob), 99

      Pancakes

      Blueberry (variation), 140

      Buttermilk, 140

      Johnnycakes (variation), 140

      Potato, 44

      Panchan, about, 28

      Pan 9 games, 144, 146

      Pan Pacific Hotel, 245–46

      Paramount Studios, 17

      Pasta. See Noodles; Spaghetti

      Peaches

      Windowpane Smoothies, 67

      Peanut Sauce, Chicken Satay with, 284–85

      Pecan Pie, 70, 71

      Peck, Rob, 203

      Peppers. See also Chiles

      Chorizo and Eggs, 64–66, 65

      kochujang, about, 329

      kochukaru, about, 328

      L.A. Dirty Dog, 309, 309

      Perez, Rich, 203, 206–7

      Ph

      at The Bicycle Club, 144–46

      for Dem Hos, 172–73

      Phoenix Bakery, 58

      Pickled Cucumbers, Instant, 42, 43

      Pie, Pecan, 70, 71

      Pineapple

      Butter, 322

      Fruit Roll Ups and Downs, 88

      Windowpane Smoothies, 67

      Pizza, Cheese, Dough to Sauce, 138–39

      Poker playing, 146–49

      Polenta and Sweet and Sour Mango Sauce, Crispy Duck Breast with, 253, 253–54

      Pork. See also Bacon

      and Beans, 115

      Belly and Kimchi Stuffed Pupusas, 304, 305–7

      Chorizo and Eggs, 64–66, 65

      Dumpling Time, 38–39, 39

      Fried Ribs. What?!, 260, 261–62

      Fried Rice, 158, 159–61

      Gumbo, 196, 197

      Kimchi Stew, 45

      Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62

      Schnitzel, Pounded, 226

      Porridge, Abalone, 20, 21

      Potato(es)

      Anna Banana
    , 218, 219

      Chips and Dip, 90

      Pancakes, 44

      Sweet, Roasted, 318

      Twice-Cooked Duck Fat Fries, 22

      Poultry. See Chicken; Duck; Turkey

      Pupusas, Kimchi and Pork Belly Stuffed, 304, 305–7

      Q

      Quesadillas, Mushroom, 266, 267–68

      R

      Ramen, Perfect Instant, 132, 133

      Rice

      Abalone Porridge, 20, 21

      Coconut, 286

      cooking, 327

      Eggplant Curry over, 282, 283

      Fried, Egg, Yuzu Glazed Shrimp over, 194

      Fried, Ketchup, 136, 137

      Fried, Pork, 158, 159–61

      Gumbo, 196, 197

      Horchata, 120

      types of, 325–26

      washing, 326

      Yellow, and Goat Stew, 112, 113–14

      Rice vinegar, 330

      Ripert, Eric, 208–10

      Robinson, Curtis and Ken, 99

      Röckenwagner (restaurant), 150

      RockSugar (restaurant), 272–79

      Rodney (high school friend), 81

      Roy’s Burger, 301

      Ryan, Nolan, 76–78

      S

      Salad Dressing, Sesame-Soy, 310

      Salads

      Caesar, 264, 265

      Cobb, Easy de Anza, 257

      Salsa Verde, 119, 119

      Salsa Verde for Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300

      Salvado (at La Casa del Zorro), 234–37

      Sandwiches

      Club, Simple, 256

      L.A. Dirty Dog, 309, 309

      Lebanese Bee’s Knees, 60, 61–62

      Spam Bánh Me, 288, 289

      Satay, Chicken, with Peanut Sauce, 284–85

      Sauces

      Mango, Sweet and Sour, 253–54

      Pizza, 138–39

      Salsa Verde, 119, 119

      Salsa Verde for Beef Cheek Tacos, 298, 299–300

      Splash, 121

      That’s So Sweet, 91

      Yogurt, 61–62

      Scallions, cooking with, 328

      Scallops, Seared, with Chive Beurre Blanc, 227

      Scherr, Malvin, 177

      Seafood. See Fish; Shellfish

      Seaweed, dried, about, 330

      Semaza, Mike, 96

      Sesame oil, about, 327–28

      Sesame-Soy Salad Dressing, 310

      Shaved Ice, Cardamom Milk, 287, 287

      Shellfish

      Abalone Porridge, 20, 21

      Coconut Clam Chowder, 224, 225

      Gumbo, 196, 197

      Kimchi, 18, 19

      Seared Scallops with Chive Beurre Blanc, 227

      Spicy Octopus, 190, 191

      Yuzu Glazed Shrimp over Egg Fried Rice, 194

      Shep (in Grove Street Mob), 96

      Shrimp

      Gumbo, 196, 197

      Yuzu Glazed, over Egg Fried Rice, 194

      Side dishes

      Asparagus, 312, 313

      Baby Bok Choy, 314

      Broccoli Rabe, 314

      Brussels Sprouts and Kimchi, 315, 315

      Caesar Salad, 264, 265

      Coconut Rice, 286

      L.A. Corner on the Cob, 302, 303

      Potatoes Anna Banana, 218, 219

      Potato Pancakes, 44

      Quick Spinach Soup, 317, 317

      Roasted Cauliflower, 316

      Roasted Mushrooms, 316

      Roasted Sweet Potatoes, 318

      Slow-Roasted Tomatoes, 318, 319

      Twice-Cooked Duck Fat Fries, 22

     


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