Horace, 85–6; Ad Thaliarchum, 85
Hungary, 190, 206, 222, 235–6, 249; equestrianism, 226–7; Great Plain, 222, 240; Porta Hungarica, 250; the author at the entrance, 274, 300, 307–8, 313–6; his recollections, 276 ff.; national feelings, 294–6; Holy Saturday, 306–16
India, 6, 10, 127–8
Jews and Jewish quarters, Brati-slava, 244–5, Prague, 269–70; Feast of Purim, 246–7; Hasidim sect, 298–9
Karva, 299–300
Kevelaer, 42
King’s School, Canterbury, 11–4, 46, 123–6
Kissujfalu, 290, 292
Köbölkut, Maundy Thursday, 296–9
Konrad, Frisian islander, and the author, 199–216 passim; saccha-rine smuggler, 212, 215, 304–5, 305n
Kövecsespuszta, 276–91
Krefeld, 45–7; a night in the workhouse, 46–7
Krems, 169, 184, 187
Lake Constance, 31, 65–6, 92
Landsknechts, 97–101, 152, 228, 259
Leopold, Duke of Austria, 185 and n
Linz, 146, 193, 264
Liphart-Ratshoff, Baron Rheinhard von, kindnesses to the author, 111–5, 135–9, 188
Lipizza, 226 and n
London, in the Thirties, 125–6, 129, 138
Ludwigstorff family, 235
Maas, the, 30–1
Magyars, 235, 237, 238–42 passim, 295–6
Maidling-im-Tal, 188
Marcomanni, the, 167–8, 178, 180, 234
Mäuseturm, legend of Archbishop Hatto, 61n
Mauthausen, 157
Maximilian of Bavaria, at battle of White Hill, 259n
Melk Abbey, 172–7, 187
Merwerde, the, 30
Mitter Arnsdorf, a widow’s reminiscences, 182–4
Moravia, 235, 240, 251, 253
Morgenstern, Christian, 285 and n
Morville, Hugo de, a murderer of Becket, 185–6n
Moselle, the, 58
Mount Ida, 85
Mount Kedros, 5
Mühlacker, 75
Munich, 102–15; beer territory, 103–8; loss of a rucksack, 109–11, 111n
Nagy-Magyar, an evening with the Burgomaster, 277–8; Gipsy women, 278–9
Nazism, 45, 51, 129, 194, 284; National Socialism display, 38–9; SS troops, 103, 105; a fanatic, 70; in Austria, 193, 195–6
Neckar, the, 66, 69, 71, 82
Niebelungen landmarks, 107–8, 170, 177–8
Nijmegen, 34, 35–6
Noorwede, the, 30
Nové Zamky, coffee house, 292–3
Nuremberg, 149, 155
Oberlahnstein, 60
Palatinate, the, 93, 171, 259
Palatine Anthology, 69n
Parkan, 308
Parry-Jones, Basset, 219, 225
Perg, 157
Persenbeug, 162
Petronell, 234
Pforzheim, 73, 75
Pöchlarn, 170
Poetry and Prose, author’s personal choice, 83–7
Pozony, see Bratislava
Prideaux, Denys Anstice, 15, 16, 19
Prague, 149, 253 ff.; St. Vitus’s Cathedral, 255–6; Riders’ Steps, 256–7; Hall of Homage, 258; Landsknecht century, 259; libraries, 249; the Vltava, 263–4; astronomers, 267–8; Waldstein Palace, 268n
Pressburg, see Bratislava
Quadi, the, 167–8, 178, 180, 234
Regensburg (Ratisbon), 149, 154, 163; Altdorfer’s birthplace, 154–6
Rhine, the, 18; meanderings, 31; Skagerrak Bridge, 46, 47; upstream by barge, 50, 52–8; legend of St. Ursula, 53 and n; historical background, 56–7, 92; riparian vineyards and castles, 60–1; the Lorelei, 62; Christmas Day, 63; the author takes leave, 65–6
Rhinelanders, 122, 132–3
Richard Coeur de Lion, imprisonment, 185 and n, 186, 230
Romilly, Esmond, 124
Rosenheim, 115
Rotterdam, 27–8
Rüdesheim, 63
Ruhr, the, 42–7
Rumania, 275, 281
Saint Boniface, 118–9
St. Florian’s Abbey, 147–8, 154, 162; Grünewald’s altarpiece, 152–3, 153n, 154
St. John Nepomuk, 184, 264
St. Martin’s Castle, 113, 135–6
SS. Cyril and Methodius, 296
Salsham-le-Sallows, 8
Salzburg, 134, 135, 137
Salzach, the, 134
Samorin, 276, 279
Schaffhausen falls, 65–6
Schey v. Koromla, Baron Philip, 274, 276, 301n; reads Proust, 280, 281, 288; character and appearance, 281–3; literary prototype, 282n; European and English reminiscences, 282–8; later life, 290–1
Schirach, Baldur von, 38
Schweik, see Hasek
Scott-Malden, Gilbert and Phyllis, 11
Senec, 279
Sered, 279
Seredy, Mgr., 314
Shakespeare, William, 118, 171–2, 200; The Winter’s Tale, 171–2, 200, 270, 272
Sitwell family (Into High Germany) 84
Slovakia, Slovaks, 237, 239–40; national complaints, 295–6; a flight of storks, 308–10
Spain, horsemanship, 226–7
Spengel, Herr and Frau, 67, 71; family, 67–71
Spires, 65; Prince Bishops, 71
Starhemberg, Prince, 217; Home Guard Militia, 144
Steyr, Trout quintet, 168
Stolzenfels, Gothic keep, 60
Strasbourg, 55, 65
Stuttgart, student hospitality, 75–82; dinner with a business family, 79–81
Styria, 135, 159, 169, 232
Švejk, see Hašek
Swabia, 77, 82, 87–92, 100, 122, 150, 155; a walk in a snowstorm, 88–9; Habsburgs, 185–6n
Switzerland, 65, 92; woodcarving, 123
Talbot-Rice, David, 20
Thirty Years’ War, 92–3, 100, 189, 254, 259, 262, 268n
Thurn, Count, 258–9
Tiel, 32, 34
Toynbee, Philip, 124
Tratzberg Schloss, 233n
Traunstein, 134
Turks, and Central Europe, 229, 238–9
Tyrol, the, 96, 135, 148, 159, 169–70
Ulm, 163, 187; the Danube sighted, 89–90; the Minster, 90, 94; battle honours, 94
Ulrich von Zatzikhoven, 185–6n
Var (Vah), the, log-traffic, 287–8, 300
Vienna, 149, 163, 206–7, 285; a penniless approach, 192–4; armed demonstration, 193–4; Salvation Army refuge, 194, 197 ff.; the author sketches for money, 202–12; Habsburg citizens, 206 and n; hospitality, 217–9; Konsularakademie, 219; museum explorations, 222–3, 229; horsemanship, 224–7; Turkish attack, 229–31
Vltava (Moldau), its course, 263–4
Waal, the, 30, 31, 35
Wachau, the, 177–8, 187, 237
Wallenstein, Albrecht von, 268 and nn
Wasserman, Jakob, Christian Wahnschaffe, 282n
Watts, Alan, 12
Wedgwood, Dame Veronica, The Thirty Years’ War, 268n
Wellesz, Dr. Egon, Byzantine plainsong, 246
Westphalia, 37, 38
Wittelsbachs, 93, 122
World War I, 43–5, 51; German attitude, 130, 131
World War II, the author in Crete, 5, 86, 220–1
Worms, 65
Württemberg, 75, 94
Ybbs, 168, 169, 256; Knight of, 166
Yugoslavia, 236, 308
Yuste, Hieronymite monastery, 228
Zaltbommel, 31
Ziegler, Hans, and family, harbour the author, 237, 245, 253, 270, 272–3
Zuyder Zee, 35
THIS IS A NEW YORK REVIEW BOOK
PUBLISHED BY THE NEW YORK REVIEW OF BOOKS
435 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014
www.nyrb.com
Copyright © 1977 by Patrick Leigh Fermor
Introduction copyright © 2005 by Jan Morris
All rights reserved.
First published in the United Kingdom by John Murray Ltd.
Cover painting: Pi
eter Brueghel the Elder, Hunters in the Snow (detail), 1565; Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna/Bridgeman Art Library
Cover design: Katy Homans
The Library of Congress has cataloged the earlier printing as follows:
Fermor, Patrick Leigh.
A time of gifts / by Patrick Leigh Fermor ; introduction by Jan Morris.
p. cm. — (New York Review Books classics)
Originally published: London : J. Murray, 1977.
Includes index.
ISBN 1-59017-165-9 (alk. paper)
1. Europe—Description and travel. 2. Europe, Central—Description and travel.
3. Fermor, Patrick Leigh. I. Title. II. Series.
D923.F47 2005
914’.0455—dc22
2005011625
eISBN 978-1-59017-517-0
v1.0
For a complete list of books in the NYRB Classics series, visit www.nyrb.com or write to:
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