History
Lying on the Wallachian plains between the Carpathian foothills and the Danube River, Bucharest was settled by Geto-Dacians as early as 70 BC. By 1459 a princely residence and military citadel had been established under the chancellery of infamous Wallachian Prince Vlad Ţepeş. By the end of the 17th century, the city was the capital of Wallachia and ranked among southeastern Europe’s wealthiest centres. It became the national capital in 1862, as it lay on a main trade route between east and west.
The early 20th century was Bucharest’s golden age. Large neoclassical buildings sprang up, fashionable parks were laid out and landscaped on Parisian models and, by the end of the 1930s, the city was known throughout Europe as ‘Little Paris’ or ‘the Paris of the East’.
Bombing by the Allies during WWII, coupled with a 1940 earthquake, destroyed much of Bucharest’s prewar beauty. In 1977 a second major earthquake claimed 1391 lives and flattened countless buildings. Former dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu’s massive redevelopment of the city in the 1980s, culminating in his grandiose Palace of the Parliament (sometimes still referred to as the 'House of the People'), drove a stake through the heart of Bucharest’s elegant past.
The violent revolution of 1989 inflicted serious wounds, both physically and psychologically. Many buildings still bear bullet holes as testament to those chaotic days when the anticommunist uprising resembled nothing so much as a civil war. Less than a year later, in June 1990, miners poured into the centre to support a government crackdown on protesting students in a shocking wave of violence that reopened scars that had barely had time to heal.
Although it’s still haunted by its recent bloody past more than a quarter century later, Bucharest is clearly recovering. The Historic Centre, particularly the area around Str Lipscani, has received a long-overdue revamp and the surrounding neighbourhoods, while still derelict in parts, seem to get nicer and nicer with each passing year.
Central Bucharest
1Top Sights
1Cişmigiu GardenA4
2Palace of ParliamentA7
3Romanian AthenaeumC2
1Sights
4Antim MonasteryB8
5Art Collection MuseumB1
6Central Committee of the Communist Party BuildingD3
7Choral TempleF7
8Church of the IconF1
9Creţulescu ChurchC3
10Great SynagogueG7
11Holocaust MemorialB6
12Jewish History MuseumF8
13Museum of the History of BucharestE5
14National Art MuseumC3
15National History MuseumC6
16New St George's ChurchE6
17Old Princely CourtD7
18Old Princely Court ChurchE7
19Prince Mihai MonasteryB6
20Rebirth MemorialC3
21Schitul DârvariF1
22St Apostles' ChurchB7
23Statue of Emperor TrajanC6
24Stavropoleos ChurchD6
25Theodor Aman MuseumD3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
26Mr TrippC4
4Sleeping
27Berthelot HotelB2
28Hotel AmzeiC1
29Hotel OperaB4
30Little Bucharest Old Town HostelD6
31Pura Vida Sky Bar & HostelD6
32Rembrandt HotelD6
33Vila ArteG2
5Eating
34BurebistaE3
35Caru' cu BereC6
36Gargantua in the ParkE1
37Lacrimi și SfințiE7
38Lente PraporgescuE2
39Les BourgeoisD6
40St GeorgeD7
6Drinking & Nightlife
41Dianei 4F4
42Fire ClubE6
43Grădina EdenB1
44Grădina VeronaD1
45Grand Cafe Van GoghD6
46M60C1
47Old CityD7
48OrigoC5
49Piua Book BarD1
50St PatrickD6
3Entertainment
51ARCUB GabroveniE6
52Cinema ProE5
53Cinemateca EforieC5
54Club AD6
55ControlC5
56Green Hours 22B1
57Jewish State TheatreG7
58National Theatre of BucharestE4
7Shopping
60Cărtureşti CaruselE6
61Cărtureşti VeronaD1
62Str Hanul cu TeiE6
1Sights
Bucharest teems with museums and attractions; all are relatively cheap and many are among the nation’s best. Note, though, that many are closed on Mondays (and some on Tuesdays too), so plan your visit accordingly. The main thoroughfare, Calea Victoriei, makes a nice walk, as it connects the two main squares of the city, Piaţa Victoriei in the north and Piaţa Revoluţiei in the centre, before bringing you to the Historic Centre, home to countless cafes, bars and clubs.
Palace of Parliament & Around
oPalace of ParliamentHISTORIC BUILDING
(Palatul Parlamentului, Casa Poporului; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tour bookings 0733-558 102; http://cic.cdep.ro; B-dul Naţiunile Unite; adult/student complete tours 55/28 lei, standard tours 35/18 lei, photography 30 lei; h9am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb; mIzvor)
The Palace of Parliament is the world’s second-largest administrative building (after the Pentagon) and former dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu’s most infamous creation. Started in 1984 (and still unfinished), the building has more than 3000 rooms and covers 330,000 sq metres. Entry is by guided-tour only (book in advance). Entry to the palace is from B-dul Naţiunile Unite on the building's northern side (to find it, face the front of the palace from B-dul Unirii and walk around the building to the right). Bring your passport.
Several types of tours are available, including a 'standard' tour of the main rooms and hallways, and 'complete' tours that combine the standard tour with views of the terrace and basement. The standard tour takes around 45 minutes; add an extra 15 minutes to see the terrace and basement. Today the building houses the country's parliament and associated offices – though much of it stands unused.
National Museum of Contemporary ArtGALLERY
(Muzeul Naţionale Arta Contemporana; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-318 9137; www.mnac.ro; Calea 13 Sepembrie 1; adult/student 10/2.50 lei; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun; mIzvor)
The Palace of Parliament houses a superb art gallery, which displays temporary, ever-changing exhibitions of eclectic installations and video art. Check the website in advance to make sure something is on during your visit to spare yourself a long walk. The museum is located on the southwestern side of the building (at the opposite end of the Palace of Parliament to the tour entrance); look for entry E4.
Piaţa Universităţii
If Bucharest has a true centre, it would be here, midway between Piaţa Victoriei in the north and Piaţa Unirii in the south, with two major north–south arteries on each side: B-dul IC Brătianu to the east and Calea Victoriei to the west. Many university buildings are situated here (hence the name), plus government institutions and lots of restaurants and bars.
New St George’s ChurchCHURCH
(Biserica Sfântul Gheorghe-Nou; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Str Lipscani & B-dul Brătianu; h8am-6pm; mUniversitate)F
The New St George’s Church dates from 1699 and is significant primarily as the burial place of Wallachian prince Constantin Brâncoveanu (r 1688–1714). Brâncoveanu was captured by the Turks in 1714 after refusing to take part in the Russo-Turkish War (1711). He and his four sons were taken to Istanbul and beheaded.
Museum of the History of BucharestMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-315 6858; www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro; B-dul IC Brătianu 2; adult/child 10/5 lei; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mUniversitate)
Housed in a neo-Gothic palace built in the 1830s to host fancy balls, this small museum, facing Piaţa Universităţii, is a lovely spot with an interesting collection of old artefacts, photos and costumes. Designed by two Austrian architects, the palace was built in 1832–34 for
the Şuţu family, notorious for their high-society parties.
Historic Centre
Bucharest's Historic Centre (Centrul istoric), sometimes referred to as the 'Old Town' or 'Lipscani', lies south of Piaţa Universităţii. It's a fascinating area that marks both the city's historic heart, formed when Bucharest was emerging as the capital of Wallachia in the 15th and 16th centuries, and the centrepiece of efforts to transform the capital into a liveable urban centre. It's home to Bucharest’s Old Princely Court (Palatul Voievodal, Curtea Veche; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Franceză 21-23; hclosed to the general public; mPiaţa Unirii), dating back to the 15th century, though the court was allowed to fall into disrepair over the centuries and is now undergoing long-term renovation.
The area around the court thrived from roughly the 16th to the 19th centuries as a merchant quarter for artisans and traders, whose occupations are still reflected in street names such as Str Covaci (street of the blacksmiths) and Str Şelari (street for saddle-makers). During much of the 20th century, in fact until as recently as a few years ago, the area had become a slum, a poor excuse for public housing for impoverished Roma.
These days, the saddle-makers are long gone to make way for the dozens and dozens of restaurants, bars and clubs. It's still very scruffy in parts, with gleaming clubs standing next to derelict buildings, but if you're in the mood for a big night out, there's no better place in town to party.
Stavropoleos ChurchCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-313 4747; www.stavropoleos.ro; Str Stavropoleos 4; h7am-8pm; mPiaţa Unirii)F
The tiny and lovely Stavropoleos Church, which dates from 1724, perches a bit oddly a block over from some of Bucharest's craziest Old Town carousing. It's one church, though, that will make a lasting impression, with its courtyard filled with tombstones, an ornate wooden interior and carved wooden doors.
Old Princely Court ChurchCHURCH
(Biserica Curtea Veche; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Franceză; h7am-8pm; mPiaţa Unirii)F
The Old Princely Court Church, built from 1546 to 1559 during the reign of Mircea Ciobanul (Mircea the Shepherd), is considered to be Bucharest’s oldest church. The faded 16th-century frescoes next to the altar are originals. The carved stone portal was added in 1715.
National History MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzeul Naţional de Istorie a Romaniei; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-315 8207; www.mnir.ro; Calea Victoriei 12; adult/student 27/7 lei; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun; mPiaţa Unirii)
Houses an excellent collection of maps, statues and ancient jewels, and is particularly strong on the country's ties to ancient Rome, including a replica of the 2nd-century Trajan’s Column. A local favourite, though, is not inside the museum at all, but rather on the steps outside: a controversial, and funny, Statue of Emperor Trajan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Calea Victoriei 12; mPiaţa Unirii), standing naked and holding a Dacian wolf.
Piaţa Revoluţiei
On an island in front of the building on Calea Victoriei stands the Rebirth Memorial (Memorialul Renaşterii; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Calea Victoriei, Piaţa Revoluţiei; h24hr; mUniversitate) – a white obelisk piercing a basketlike crown (a doughnut on a stick?). It was ridiculed when it was first erected in 2005, but the public has now grown accustomed to it.
oRomanian AthenaeumHISTORIC BUILDING
(Ateneul Român; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 021-315 6875; www.fge.org.ro; Str Benjamin Franklin 1-3; tickets 20-65 lei; hbox office noon-7pm Tue-Fri, 4-7pm Sat, 10-11am Sun; mUniversitate, Piaţa Romană)
The exquisite Romanian Athenaeum is the majestic heart of Romania’s classical music tradition. Scenes from Romanian history are featured on the interior fresco inside the Big Hall on the 1st floor; the dome is 41m high. A huge appeal dubbed ‘Give a Penny for the Athenaeum’ saved it from disaster after funds dried up in the late-19th century. Today it’s home to the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra and normally only open during concerts, but you can often take a peak inside.
The peristyle is adorned with mosaics of five Romanian rulers, including Moldavian prince Vasile Lupu (r 1512–21), Wallachian Matei Basarab (r 1632–54) and King Carol I (r 1881–1914). It was built in 1888, and George Enescu made his debut here in 1898, followed five years later by the first performance of his masterpiece, Romanian Rhapsody.
The George Enescu Philharmonic offers a wide array of classical music concerts from September to May as well as a number of one-off musical shows and spectacles throughout the year. Buy tickets at the venue box office. Tickets go on sale Tuesday of the week a concert is taking place.
National Art MuseumMUSEUM
(Muzeul Naţional de Artă; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %information 021-313 3030; www.mnar.arts.ro; Calea Victoriei 49-53; 15 lei; h11am-7pm Wed-Sun; mUniversitate)
Housed in the 19th-century Royal Palace, this massive, multipart museum – all signed in English – houses two permanent galleries: one for National Art and the other for European Masters. The national gallery is particularly strong on ancient and medieval art, while the European gallery includes some 12,000 pieces and is laid out by nationality.
The Royal Palace itself is a treat. Built from 1812 to 1815 by Prince Dinicu Golescu, the palace became the official royal residence in 1834 during the reign of Prince Alexandru Ghica (r 1834–42). The facade dates from the 1930s. See the website for occasional public tours of chambers of the building that are normally off limits to visitors.
Theodor Aman MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314 5812; www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro; Str CA Rosetti 8; adult/child 5/2 lei; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun; mPiaţa Romană)
This is the lovingly restored residence and studio of 19th-century Romanian painter Theodor Aman. Aman's skill was in small, finely rendered oil paintings depicting aspects of local and national life. The detail is so fine on some of the paintings, the figures appear to take on three-dimensional form.
Creţulescu ChurchCHURCH
(Kretzulescu Church; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-410 7116; Calea Victoriei 45-47; h7am-8pm; mUniversitate)F
The modest Creţulescu Church stands in repose near the far larger and more dramatic Royal Palace. Look for the original paintings near the door to the church that date from the building's foundation in 1722. The church was damaged and renovated several times over the course of the centuries. In front, there's a bust to the liberal Romanian politician Corneliu Coposu, who spent time in prison under the communists.
DON'T MISS
CIşMIGIU GARDEN
West of Calea Victoriei is the locally beloved Cişmigiu Garden ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h24h; mUniversitate), with shady walks, a lake, cafes and a ridiculous number of benches on which to sit and stare at Bucharest residents passing by. From May to September you can rent pedal and paddle boats to splash around in on the small pond.
Piaţa Unirii & Around
South of the Historic Centre, Piaţa Unirii stands at the centre of the new socialist city that Ceauşescu began building in earnest in the 1980s (knocking down much of old Bucharest in the process). The area's broad boulevard, B-dul Unirii, was originally intended as a kind of communist-era Champs-Élysées. It was never finished, but the sheer scale conveys something of the intent. The main sights, ironically, are a handful of beautiful historic churches that miraculously survived the rebuilding and demolition project.
Prince Mihai MonasteryMONASTERY
(Mânăstirea Mihai Vodă; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Sapienţei 4; h8am-7pm; mIzvor)F
The former symbol of Bucharest, the 16th-century Prince Mihai Monastery was built from 1589 to 1591 under the orders of Mihai Viteazul (r 1593–1601). Ceauşescu moved it 279m east in 1985 to this patch of wasteland between apartment blocks.
Antim MonasteryMONASTERY
(Mânăstirea Antim; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Antim 29; h7am-8pm; mPiaţa Unirii)F
This beautiful walled complex was built in 1715 by the metropolitan bishop Antim Ivireanu. Today it's hidden by communist-era housing blocks.
St Apostles’ ChurchCHURCH
(Biserica Sfinţii Apostoli; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Sfintii Apostoli 33a; h7am-8pm; mPiaţa Unirii)F
Tiny St Apostles’ Church, north of B-dul Unirii (west of the Piaţa Unirii), survived Ceauşescu's 1980s demolition project – to a degree. The church, built in 1636, was not moved, but the surrounding parkland was ripped up and replaced with blocks of flats. It’s overgrown, with trees and near-abandoned buildings.
Patriarchal CathedralCHURCH
(Catedrala Patriahală; GOOGLE MAP ; Str Dealul Mitropoliei; h7am-8pm; mPiaţa Unirii)F
From the centre of Piaţa Unirii, look southwest to the Patriarchal Cathedral, the centre of Romanian Orthodox faith, built between 1656 and 1658. It triumphantly peeks over once-grand housing blocks on B-dul Unirii designed to 'hide' Bucharest's churches. During the 15th century, a small wooden church surrounded by vineyards occupied this site. None of the interior paintings has survived, with the exception of one icon depicting Constantin and Helen, the cathedral's patron saints.
JEWISH BUCHAREST