Buenos Aires
Contents
Plan Your Trip
Welcome to Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires' Top 10
What's New
Need to Know
Top Itineraries
If You Like...
Month By Month
With Kids
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Tango
Explore
Neighborhoods at a Glance
The Center
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Puerto Madero
Sights
Eating
Entertainment
Congreso & Tribunales
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
San Telmo
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
La Boca
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Retiro
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Recoleta & Barrio Norte
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Belgrano, Nunez & the Costanera Norte
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Palermo
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
South of Palermo
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Day Trips from Buenos Aires
Tigre & the Delta
San Isidro
San Antonio de Areco
Colonia
Sleeping
Understand
Understand Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires Today
History
Music
Literature & Cinema
Art & Architecture
Survive
Transportation
Arriving in Buenos Aires
Getting Around Buenos Aires
Tours
Directory AZ
Discount Cards
Electricity
Embassies & Consulates
Emergency
Gay & Lesbian Travelers
Health
Internet Access
Medical Services
Money
Opening Hours
Post
Public Holidays
Safe Travel
Taxes & Refunds
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Travel Agencies
Travelers with Disabilities
Visas
Women Travelers
Language
Buenos Aires Maps
The Center
Puerto Madero
Congresso & Tribunales
San Telmo
La Boca
Recoleta & Barrio Norte
Retiro
Belgrano, Nunez & the Costanera Norte
Palermo
South of Palermo
Table of Contents
Behind the Scenes
Our Writer
Special Features
Cafes of Buenos Aires
Fileteado Porteno
The Immortal Evita
Street Art
Welcome to Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires combines faded European grandeur with Latin passion. Sexy and alive, this beautiful city gets under your skin.
Steak, Wine & Ice Cream
BA's food scene is increasingly dynamic, but for many travelers it's the city's carnivorous pleasures that shine. Satisfying a craving for juicy steaks isn't hard to do in the land that has perfected grilling wonderfully flavorful sides of beef, washed down with a generous glass of malbec or bonarda. Parrillas (steakhouses) sit on practically every corner and will offer up myriad cuts, from bife de chorizo (sirloin) to vacio (flank steak) to ojo de bife (rib eye). But leave room for ice cream, if you can – a late-night cone of dulce de leche (caramel) helado can't be topped.
Meat cooking on a parrilla (grill) | ROCHARIBEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Art & Architecture
Look closely: this city is beautiful. Sure, it might look like a concrete jungle from certain angles, but stroll through the streets, paying attention to the magnificent architecture around you, and you'll soon be won over. Grand French- and Italian-style palaces grab the limelight, but you'll see interesting architectural details in the buildings of even low-key, local barrios. These days the beauty of these traditional neighborhoods is further enhanced by colorful murals painted by artists involved in the city's vibrant street-art scene. For these talented individuals, the city is their canvas.
Nightlife
Take a disco nap, down some coffee and be prepared to stay up all night – this city doesn't sleep. Restaurants get going at 9pm, bars at midnight and clubs at 2am at the earliest; serious clubbers don't show up until 4am. And it's not just the young folk who head out on the town in this city; BA's diverse range of bars, clubs and live-music venues offers something for everyone, from DJs spinning electronica to live jazz sets. Just remember you'll be doing it all very late.
Tango
BA's famous dance is possibly the city's greatest contribution to the outside world, a steamy strut that's been described as 'making love in the vertical position'. Folklore says it began in the bordellos of long-ago Buenos Aires, when men waiting for their 'ladies' passed time by dancing among themselves. Today, glamorized tango shows are supremely entertaining with their grand feats of athleticism. You'll also find endless venues for perfecting your moves, from milongas (dance salons) to dance schools. Be aware that some people become addicted – and can spend a lifetime perfecting this sensual dance.
Jacaranda trees in springtime | PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET ©
Why I Love Buenos Aires
By Isabel Albiston, Writer
When I first arrived in Buenos Aires in 2010, Argentina was celebrating 200 years of independence and the city was a carnival. I fell hard and fast for this crazy place with its dogs in soccer shirts and passionately held opinions on everything from politics to how to prepare mate (the yerba tea infusion). For the next four years, my days were spent cycling between parks and timeless neighborhood cafes; nights began with asados (barbecues) and ended at sunrise. In spring, when the blossom of the jacaranda trees turns the city purple, there's nowhere I'd rather be.
Buenos Aires' Top 10
Cementerio de la Recoleta
1Meander through the maze of narrow lanes lined with elaborate mausoleums in what must be the world's most ostentatious necropolis. This 'city of the dead' was BA's first public cemetery, though it quickly became exclusive; some of Argentina's most illustrious historical figures are buried here, including Eva Perón ('Evita'). Myriad styles decorate the crumbling tombs, f
rom art nouveau and art deco to neoclassical and neo-Gothic. There are also wonderfully flamboyant statues to discover, so pay your respects to Evita before getting lost among the marble angels.
1
FANDRADE / GETTY IMAGES ©
Buenos Aires' Top 10
Tangoing at a Milonga
2Nothing captures the essence of Buenos Aires like the sensual and melancholy tango, and no visit to the city is complete without experiencing tango in some form. To experience it in its most authentic form, head to a milonga (dance event), held at dozens of venues. Tango classes are often held before milongas, so take part – or just watch, but don't look too long at that handsome stranger across the room; a stare is an invitation to dance, and you could be breaking some hearts!
3
JUICE IMAGES LTD / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Buenos Aires' Top 10
Attending a Football Game
3In Buenos Aires, fútbol isn't just a game. The national pastime inspires near-religious passion in porteños, clearing the streets and sending spectators into fits of ecstasy and anguish as they huddle around TV screens or brave the explosive stadium crowds. The atmosphere is particularly boisterous (read: out of control) when River Plate and arch-rivals Boca Juniors face off during the much-anticipated Superclásico games. The tension is palpable, and for two hours on a Sunday afternoon here, nothing else really matters.
2
NATURSPORTS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Buenos Aires' Top 10
4Believe the hype: Argentine beef is some of the best in the world. Eat, drink and be merry at one of BA's hundreds of parrillas (steakhouses), where a leisurely meal begins with waiters pouring malbec and carving generous slabs of prime beef. Parrillas run the gamut from neighborhood joints to classic establishments to upscale restaurants, so there's a price for every pocket. There are even closed-doors restaurants offering asado (barbecue) experiences. One thing is certain: you can expect some of the best meat you've ever eaten.
5
ANALIA VALERIA URANI / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Buenos Aires' Top 10
Plaza de Mayo
5Founded in 1580, Plaza de Mayo is the stage on which many of the dramatic events in Argentina's history were played out, from military bombings in 1955 to Evita's emotional speeches to massive union demonstrations (still going today). Most of the time, however, it's a peaceful place where families feed pigeons. It's where you'll find the Casa Rosada presidential palace, which you can visit for free on weekends. If you're here on a Thursday afternoon, you might witness Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo: mothers peacefully marching for social-justice causes.
1
ADAMICO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Buenos Aires' Top 10
Strolling through San Telmo
6The neighborhood of San Telmo is a beguiling mix of faded grandeur and bohemian spirit. The elegant belle-epoque architecture and crumbling villas are throwbacks to the district's 19th-century heyday, before yellow fever and cholera sent the aristocratic masses to higher ground. Today, you can wander along Defensa or Balcarce streets toward leafy Parque Lezama, taking in picturesque vistas of romantic facades and drooping balconies as you window-shop for antiques. The neighborhood continues to evolve, but much of the old-world atmosphere remains. Come on Sunday for the famous street fair.
1
T PHOTOGRAPHY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Buenos Aires' Top 10
Spotting Street Art
7From the city's leafy northern suburbs to the abandoned warehouses of its gritty, southernmost edge, Buenos Aires has become a canvas for talented street artists from all over the world, who come here to paint in collaboration with Argentina's own graffiti superstars. Little pockets of the city are home to a particular concentration of murals – explore them on a guided tour with Graffitimundo. Keep your eyes open as you walk around Palermo, Colegiales and San Telmo; you might even see the city's next masterpiece being created.
2
GRAFFITIMUNDO ©
Buenos Aires' Top 10
Cycling through Palermo's Parks
8It's official: Buenos Aires is bike friendly! With an extensive network of cycle lanes and a free city bike program, there is no better way to explore the city than on two wheels. But if the thought of taking on the traffic makes you nervous, fear not. A bike tour of Buenos Aires – especially around Palermo's green parks – is a great way to experience cycling in this vehicle-dominated city. Here, miles of safe bike lanes exist, and you can enjoy the green of grass instead of the gray of concrete.
2
CHAD EHLERS / AGEFOTOSTOCK ©
Buenos Aires' Top 10
Taking a Nature Walk at the Reserva Ecológica
9In the shadow of Puerto Madero's shiny skyscrapers, an incredible nature reserve emerged from an area of abandoned, marshy wasteland. These days the remarkable park is home to hundreds of birds, colorful butterflies, turtles and iguanas. Take a walk along the paths that loop up past the coastline of the Río de la Plata. Amid the refreshing river breezes, peace and sense of space it's hard to believe you're just a 20-minute walk from the city center.
2
JON ARNOLD IMAGES LTD / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
Buenos Aires' Top 10
Feria de Mataderos
10Folk music emanates from the outdoor stage, local couples take to the streets to perform the traditional chacarera and chamamé folk dances, and food stalls dish out hearty country dishes such as locro (a meaty stew), deep-fried empanadas and humitas (a kind of tamale). This is Feria de Mataderos, an authentic celebration of Argentine country traditions. You might also see gauchos demonstrating their horse-riding skills by playing sortija, a game where they stand in their saddles and ride at full speed to spear a tiny dangling ring. Catch it on Sundays.
7
YADID LEVY / AGEFOTOSTOCK ©
What's New
Craft Beer & Burgers
BA has gone mad for craft beer, with new bars and microbreweries opening every week. Accompanying the beer trend is a hunger for juicy burgers. Big Sur is one of the most recent to appear on the scene. Look for the free BA Tap Map to help you plan your way around.
La Mar Cebicheria
The much anticipated opening of Peruvian restaurant La Mar Cebicheria has left BA's foodies swooning over the quality of the fresh ceviche and leche de tigre (citrus-based marinade) salsa.
Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos
More commonly known as the Ex ESMA, this former naval campus was a secret detention and torture center during the military dictatorship of 1976 to 1983. Now the building where the human-rights abuses took place has been converted into a memorial museum.
Barrancas de Belgrano
This elegant Belgrano park has been given a facelift and it's looking gorgeous. Come for the milonga La Glorieta, held at the park's bandstand in the evening.
Los Galgos
Formerly a run-down but historic cafe, Los Galgos has been completely transformed into a classy cocktail bar.
Centro Cultural Kirchner
The spectacular cultural center is now fully open, with a packed schedule of free concerts and events – get in quick if you want to score a ticket.
Coffee
The days of bad coffee in BA are over, thanks to a crop of new cafes dedicated to producing high-caliber brews using imported Colombian beans.
South of Scalabrini Ortiz
Threatening to knock Palermo Viejo off its foodie perch is the increasingly hip neighborhood located on the south side of Av Scalabrini Ortiz. It's where you'll find Proper, Benaim and NoLa, among other hot new bars and restaurants.
City Government Tourist Program
As well as opening a new tourist information kiosk in La Boca ( GOOGLE MAP ; %for WhatsApp messages 011-2851-8074; https://turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar; Av Don Pedro de Mendoza 1901; h9am-6pm; W; g33, 64, 29), the Buenos Aires city government has launched a series of free walking tours, plus rowing tours in Puerto Mad
ero and even eco-car trips around the Reserva Ecológica and Parque 3 de Febrero. Be sure to check out the current program.
Underground Art
Some of BA's top street artists have brightened up Subte stations with wonderful murals. Check out recent works at Federico Lacroze on the Línea B.