paintings at the castle, 180–182
the town and inhabitants, 174–178
theatre, 182–183
De Forest, John W., xxiii
de Musset, Alfred, 119–122, 128
de Warens, Françoise-Louise, 102–103
death
accident on the Thames, 236
of Henry James, xvii
della Robbia, Luca, 191, 209
Derbyshire, England
Chatsworth, England, 70–71
Haddon Hall, 67–70
Devonshire, England
color and beauty of, 75–76
Exeter Cathedral, 76–79
Ilfracombe, 79–82
Lynton and Lynmouth, 83–86
dirt and squalor
Darmstadt, 177–178
Florence, 188–189
Gravesend, 237
Rome, 150
Ticonderoga, 26–27
Venice, 133–134
dogs: English hunters in Scotland, 243–244
Doré, Gustave, 228–230
Drury Lane Theatre, London, 257(fig.)
Dumas, Alexandre, 125–126
Dumfriesshire, Scotland, 251
Edel, Leon, xi, xiii
Edinburgh, Scotland, 241–242, 245–246
education
James children’s studies abroad, xix
lack of training in British theatre, 260–261
travel as self-education, xii
England
an Englishman’s right to comfort, 234–235
British theatre, 257–265
Glastonbury, 87(fig.), 94–95
Gravesend, 236–238
Haddon Hall, 67–70
James’s early travels, x–xi
Lichfield, 61(fig.), 63–66
Salisbury Cathedral, 96–97
Somerset, 85–86
sporting life, 249–253
the Anglican Church, 249
Warwick, 71–74
Wells, 87–90
See also Devonshire; London
English tourists
in Rome, 147–148
in Scotland, 242
Europe, 4–5
an Englishman’s right to comfort, 234–235
James’s early travels, x–xi, xviii
political observations, xiii–xiv
See also specific countries and cities
Exeter, England, 76–79
family, James’s, ix–xi, xviii–xix
fashion
English visitors in Scotland, 242–243
in Turin, 106
labeling the American tourists, 163–164
women of Saratoga, 6–9
Ferrara, Italy, 177
festas, Bologna’s, 212–213
Feydeau, Ernest, 142
fiction, James’s, xxi–xxii
Florence, Italy, 185(fig.)
art, 192–195
“Florentine flavor,” 186–188
flow of the seasons, 185–187
light and atmosphere, 189–191
Fra Angelico, 191
France
British adaptation of French comedies, 264
Comédie Française, 117(fig.)
Franco-Scottish castles, 255–256
James’s deathbed reminiscences, xvii–xviii
James’s political observations, xiii–xiv
preserving the respectability of the theatre, 259–260
social phenomena and theatre, 117–118
temperament and characteristics of the French, 165
See also Théâtre Français
frescoes
cathedral of Pisa, 205–206
Leonardo’s “Last Supper,” 96, 112–113
frugality of the Scots, 248–249
Galla Placidia, Ravenna, Italy, 211(fig.), 214, 220–221
gaming houses
Doré’s “Le Tapis Vert,” 230
Homburg, 157–158, 162
Saratoga, xxi–xxii, 3–4
gardens
Darmstadt, 173, 182
Germans’ fondness for, 182
Homburg, 159–160
Lucca, 207–208
Tuscany, 198–199
Wells Cathedral, 92–93
Germany
contrast with Italy, 141–143
grand and powerful German temperament, 165–167
See also Bad Homburg; Darmstadt
Giotto’s Tower, Florence, Italy, 191
Glastonbury Abbey, England, 94–95
Glens Falls (Glenn’s Falls), New York, 16
Goat Island (Niagara Falls), 54–55
Gozzoli, Benozzo, 205–206
Gravesend, England, 236–238
great American novel, xxii–xxiv, 29, 38
Great Lakes, United States, 45–46
Green Mountains, Vermont, 13, 28–29
Haddon Hall, England, 67–70
Hamlet (Shakespeare), 261
health
Homburg Kursaal, 158–159, 168–169
James’s strokes and death, xvii–xviii
Newport resort, 31–32
waters at Ilfracombe, 79–82
Henry VIII, 94–95
Hesse-Darmstadt. See Darmstadt
Highland reel, 252–254
history
historical figures in Scotland, 246–247
Ravenna’s character, 214–215
Ravenna’s literary history, 221–223
Holbein, Hans, 183–184
Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, Scotland, 246
Homburg, Germany. See Bad Homburg, Germany
Horseshoe (Niagara Falls), 55–57
Howard, Bronson, 265
Howells, William Dean, xxiv
Il ne Faut Jurer de Rien (de Musset), 119–122
Ilfracombe, England, 79–82
income, James’s, x–xi, xx–xxi
independence as a Scottish characteristic, 247–248
inns in Scotland and Switzerland, 244–245
insect life of Lake George, 20
Irving, Henry, 260–261
Italy
arrival through the Mont Cenis Tunnel, 105
autumn in Florence, 185(fig.)
characteristics of French Savoie, 101–102
comparing Lake Como to Lake George, 17–22
contrast with Germany, 141–143
Florence, 185–195, 185(fig.)
influence on Franco-Scottish castles, 256
James’s first travels to Rome, xx
Lake Como, 17–22, 114–115
Leghorn, 197–199
Lucca, 207–208
Milan, 108–113
Pisa, 197(fig.), 199–205
Pistoia, 208–209
Turin, 105–107
Verona, 141–145
See also Ravenna; Rome; Venice
James, Alice (sister), xx–xxi
James, Henry, Sr. (father), ix–x, xix
James, William (brother), xix–xx
Johnson, Samuel, ix, 61(fig.), 62–63
Keats, John, 153
Kensington Gardens: Albert Memorial, 225–228
Kursaal at Bad Homburg, 158–159, 169
Lake Champlain, United States-Canada, 26–28
Lake Como, Italy, 17–22, 114–115
Lake George, New York, xii
comparison to Lake Como, 17–22
insects and plants, 20–21
Lake Champlain and, 28
soldier’s monument, 16–17
steamer journey across, 25–26
vision of Prussian greatness, 23
landscapes
Devonshire’s color and beauty, 75–76
Gustave Doré’s paintings, 230
Warwickshire, 71–72
“Last Supper” (Leonardo da Vinci), 96, 112–113
“Last Supper” (Tintoretto), 140
Laya, Léon, 126–127
Leaning Tower of Pisa, 199–200
Leaves of Grass (Whitman), viii
Leghorn, Italy. See Livorno (Leghorn)
, Italy
leisured class
American theatre, 260
America’s lack of, 9–10
English shooting in Scotland, 242–243
the “London life,” 232–233
visitors to Newport, 36
Leonardo da Vinci, 96, 112–113
Les Charmettes, Chambéry, France, 101(fig.), 102–104
library at Darmstadt Schloss, 180
Lichfield, England, 61(fig.)
Dr. Johnson, 62–63
the Cathedral, 63–66
light
Newport’s contrasting tones, 42
the visual delights of Venice, 133–134
literary career, James’s
earliest writings, xix–xx
literary quality of de Musset’s plays, 120–121
serial publications 1872–1874, xxi
literary realism, xxiv–xxv, 2–3
literature, 125
literary nudity of British theatre, 262–264
Ravenna’s literary history, 221–223
Livorno (Leghorn), Italy, 197–198
Lombardy region of Italy, 112
London
Albert Memorial, 225–228, 225(fig.)
Doré exhibit, 228–230
Dr. Johnson’s fondness for, 62–63
Drury Lane theatre, 257(fig.)
Thames accident, 231(fig.), 235–236, 238
tranquility of the off-season, 231–234
Louis I (Duke), 175–176
Louvre Museum, Paris, 140–141
Lucca, Italy, 207
Lynmouth, England, 83–84
Lynton, England, 83–85
manners
Parisian theatre, 117–118
respectability of British dramatists, 259
Scottish, 248–249
the German tone of the people of Homburg, 164–166
writing to the London Times, 233–234
Manners, John, 68
Mantegna, Andrea, 145
Michaelangelo (Michael Angelo), 205, 229
Milan, Italy, 108–113
military
castle at Darmstadt, 178–180
in the German temperament, 167–168
Mixed Essays (Arnold), 257
moats
Darmstadt castle, 178
Episcopal Palace at Wells, 93
Molière, 119–120, 128
Monaco, 3
Mont Cenis Tunnel, France, 104–105
monuments
Albert Memorial, 225–228, 225(fig.)
to Sir Walter Scott, 245–246
morality
in theatre, 125–127
role in ecclesiastical architecture, 109
Morrissey, John, 3
mosaics
Pisa, 202–203
Ravenna, 215–218
Torcello, 136
mountain scenery
English shooting in Scotland, 250–253
Green Mountains, 13, 28–29
Homburg, 159–161
Lake George and Lake Como, 17–22, 25–26
the view from Florence, 187
music, 166–167, 168
Nation weekly, vii–xiii, xxii–xxiii
national character
French and German, 165
Scottish, 248
nationalistic feeling, xxi–xxv, 5–6
Newport, Rhode Island, xii
celebration of pleasure-taking and idleness, 36–38
comparison with Saratoga, 35–38
contrasting tones and romantic elements, 41–44
picturesque elements, 39–41
presence of the sea, 38–39
scenic beauty, 31–33
the feminine element, 34–35
Niagara, New York
beauty and features of, 52–54
contrast between the village and the Falls, 47–49
diverse views of the Falls, 49–51
first glimpse of the Falls, 46–48
Goat Island, 54–55
navigating the Great Lakes, 45–46
the Horseshoe, 55–57
the Whirlpool, 57–59
night life in Saratoga, 3–4
nobility, Gallicization of Scotland’s, 256
Norman stonework, 77–79
Orcagna (Andrea di Cione di Arcangelo), 204, 205
Oxford University, England, 61, 152, 203
palaces
Episcopal Palace at Wells, 92–94
Florence, 188
Pisa, 206
Paris, France. See France; Théâtre Français
Parliament, 239
Pincio, Rome, Italy, 149
Pisa, Italy, 197(fig.), 199–205
Pistoia, Italy, 208–209
Pitti Palace, Florence, Italy, 192
Place de la Concorde, Paris, France, xviii
poetry: James’s critique of Whitman, vii–ix
politics
James’s observations on European relations, xiii–xiv
London in the off-season, 239
Prussian greatness, 23
Pompeii, Italy, 69
Porlock, England, 85–86
The Portrait of a Lady (James), xxii
Prince of Wales Theatre, London, 262–265
Princes Street, Edinburgh, 245–246
prose style, James’s, xiv–xv
Prussia, xiii–xiv, 23. See also Darmstadt
Quakers, 41
Raphael, 113, 194, 195
Ravenna, Italy
churches, 219–221, 223
Corso, 213–214
literary history, 221–223
mausoleum of Galla Placidia, 220–221
mosaics, 215–218
Religious Corporations Act, 155
religious life and institutions
Bologna’s festas, 212–213
Ravenna’s churches, 215–223
Scottish Sawbath, 254–255
the Anglican Church, 249
See also churches
reviews, James’s, vii–ix
rights of the English individual, 234–235
river scenery and travel
Lake Champlain, 28
Niagara, 46–48
Thames shipping accident, 231(fig.), 235–236, 238
Roderick Hudson (James), xxiii–xxiv
Roman Arena, Verona, Italy, 142–143
as tourist mecca, 147–148
cemetery at St. Paul’s Gate, 152–155
Spanish Steps, 147(fig.)
the “smile” of, 150–151
the villas, 150–152
tourist exodus, 148–150
Rosherville Gardens, Gravesend, England, 237–238
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, 103–105
Rubens, Peter Paul, 229
ruins: Glastonbury Abbey, 94–96
Ruskin, John, 14
Sabbath (Sawbath), Scotland’s, 254
St. Cuthbert, church of, 93–94
St. Peter’s Basilica, Rome, Italy, 155
Salisbury, England
Stonehenge and Wilton House, 98–99
the cathedral, 96
San Apollinare in Classe, Italy, 223
San Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna, Italy, 216–218, 219
San Cassiano (San Cassano) church, Venice, Italy, 137–138
San Rocco, Italy, 140–141
San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy, 219–220
San Zeno (San Zenone), church of, Verona, Italy, 145
Sand, George, 103
Santi Nazaro e Celso, Ravenna, Italy, 211(fig.), 214, 220–221
Saratoga, New York, xii, 1(fig.)
balls, 10–12
comparison with Cheltenham, 10
comparison with Newport, 35–38
fashionable elegance of the women, 6–9
handsomeness of the average American man, 5–6
James’s glowing prose, xxi–xxii
Savoie region of France, 101–102
Scotland
Edinburgh, 241–242
English passion for shooting, 250–253
English travelers, 242–244
Highland reel, 252–254
history and beauty, 246–248
Sawbath, 254–255
typical viands, 244–245
Scott, Gilbert, 65
Scott, Sir Walter, 245–246
seasons
in Florence, 185–186
Rome in the spring, 148–151
Shakespeare, William, 70, 71–72
Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 153, 232
shooting, English passion for, 238–239, 250–253
Il Sodoma (painter), 203
soldier’s monument, 16–17
Somerset, England, 85–86
Spanish Steps, Rome, Italy, 147(fig.)
sport, English love of, 238–239, 242–244, 249–253
stained glass
Exeter Cathedral, 77–78
Lichfield Cathedral, 65–66
statuto (Italian holiday), 212–213
Stirling, Scotland, 256
Stonehenge, England, 97–98
strokes, James’s, xvii–xviii
Superga, Turin, Italy, 106–107
Switzerland, 101–102, 104–105
tables d’hôte, English, 82, 244–245
“Le Tapis Vert” (Doré), 230
Tennyson, Alfred, Lord, 85
Terry, Ellen, 261–262
Thames shipping accident, 231(fig.), 235–236, 238
theatre, xiv
as social phenomenon, 124–126
Darmstadt, 182–183
Henry Irving and Ellen Terry, 260–262
lack of training in British theatre, 260–261
literary nudity of British theatre, 262–264
London’s Drury Lane theatre, 257(fig.)
the fashion of British theatre, 257–259
Verona’s open-air performance, 143
Théâtre Français
as sensual and intellectual experience, 118
audience members, 123–124
comedic brilliance, 128–129
Comédie Française, 117(fig.)
Molière and de Musset, 119–122
moral themes, 125–127
recurrent themes, 124–126
respectability of, 259–260
Ticonderoga, New York, 26–27
Tintoretto (Tintoret), 137–140, 229
Titian, 138, 139–140
Tombs of the Scaligers, Verona, Italy, 144
Torcello, Italy, 134–136
Truth (Howard), 265
Turin, Italy, 105–107
Tuscany region of Italy
Leghorn, 197–199
Pisa, 199–201
Tuscan art, 191
See also Florence
Twain, Mark, xxiv
Uffizi, Florence, Italy, 192–193
Union Hotel, Saratoga, New York, 3–5
United States
Burlington, Vermont, xxii–xxiii, 28–29
Green Mountains, 13, 28–29
respectability of the theatre, 260
the individual’s expectation of comfort, 235
See also Lake George; Newport; Niagara; Saratoga
University of Vermont, 29