Casablancas’s relationship with, 451-458
Rose and, 456-457
Shannon, Tara, 314, 359-372, 361
Shaw, Irwin, 110
Shaw, Mark, 128, 233
Shaw, Sam, 109
Shawn, Wallace, 23
Shepard, Alan, 121
Shepherd, Cybill, 245-246, 245, 317
Sherman, Bertha Bartlett, 43-44
Sherman, Eunice, 95
Sherman, Hannah Lee, 34, 43-47, 45
Shields, Brooke, 472
Shiraishi, Carl, 216
Shrimpton, Chrissie, 170, 174-175
Shrimpton, Jean, 153, 154, 155, 159-160, 161, 167, 171-172, 173, 178, 223, 233, 421, 481
Bailey and, 168-171
“Young Idea” feature and, 170
Sieff, Jeanloup, 169, 187, 255, 280, 492
Silberstein, Dominique, 291, 304
Silberstein, Jacques, 289, 290-291, 300, 304, 399, 467, 468
Silberstein, Robert, 289
Silverberg, Steven, 388
Simonson, Renee, 472
Simpson, Babs, 77, 81, 130, 217
Sims, Naomi, 235, 236, 238
60 Minutes, 4, 462-463, 471, 472, 477
Brunel and, 466-470
Haddad report of, 464-466
Skrebneski, Victor, 20-21, 196
Slater, Christian, 441
Slavin, Sarah, 261, 265-266
Smith, Earl E. T., 37
Smith, Liz, 431
Smith, Marion, 474, 479-480
Smith, Patti, 423
Smith, Shelley, 256, 261, 262, 263, 266, 268-270, 487
Smith, Toukie, 294
Smith, Willie, 294
Smithers, Beri, 9, 488
Snow, Carmel, 41, 77, 106, 107
Snowden, Lynn, 355
Society of Models, 78-89
Sohl, Richard, 423
SoHo Weekly News, 424
Sokolsky, Melvin, 104, 171, 172, 224, 231-232, 233, 422
Solow, Mia, 84, 85
Sontag, Susan, 186
Sorenson, Marion, 55
Sorrenti, Mario, 488
Souliers, Aileen, 475
Spelling, Aaron, 482
Spina, James, 422, 424
“Spoiled Supermodels, The” (Haden-Guest), 350
Sports Illustrated, 10, 224, 313, 319-320, 327, 420, 456
Springfield, Dusty, 173
Springs, Alice, 264
Sprouse, Stephen, 422, 423, 425, 434
Stallone, Sylvester, 314, 436
Stamp, Terence, 153, 171-172
Stech, Ericha, 201
Steichen, Edward, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 56, 226
Stember, John, 255, 320, 450
Stephens, Jan, 387
Stern, Bert, 169, 182, 223, 224, 230, 233, 234, 333, 421, 422
Stevens, Jocelyn, 153, 167
Stewart, James, 50, 370
Stewart Models, 197, 217, 241, 242, 244, 246, 267
Stinson, Eleanor, 352, 353, 354
Stogo, Don, 101
Stone, Barbara, 181, 188-189, 241, 244, 246-247, 248, 249, 261, 266, 279
Stone, Paulene, 178
Stone Models, 247
Stop Veruschka, 190
Stuart, Hamish, 366, 370
Studio 54, 313, 330-331, 332, 343, 344, 346, 351, 365, 366
Stumin, Constance, 229
Style with Elsa Klensch, 482
Success (agency), 398
Sui, Anna, 422
Sumurum (Vera Ashby), 40
Sunday Times (London), 172, 264
“Supermodel,” 5
Supermodel of the World contest, 474, 498
supermodels, 5, 490
calendars and, 420-421
first, 49
first male, 344
first nonblond, 420
first use of term, 12
image of, 411-412
nude posing and, 421, 486
Swain, Eric, 170, 178
Synchro, 462
Tabak, Massimo, 375, 386, 395-396
Talent Management International (TMI), 207
Talmadge, Richard, 309, 353
Tapscott, Trudi, 12, 400, 458, 460
Tastet, Kati, 488
Taubman, Rick, 313
Taylor, Elizabeth, 209, 432
Taylor, Lisa, 321, 335, 343, 348-350, 349, 352, 487
Taylor, Niki, 150, 481, 482
’Teen, 242, 243
Tennant, Catherine, 176
Tennant, Colin, 176
Tennant, Stella, 488
Terrible Trio, 153, 156, 167, 169-172, 181, 226, 228, 229
Tex and Jinx Show, 58
Thing of Beauty (Fried), 347
Thornton, Walter, 2, 37-38, 48, 49, 70, 105, 242
Thouret, Ingo, 294, 295, 296
Thurman, Uma, 230
Thyssen-Bornemizsa, Heinrich von, 139
Tiegs, Cheryl, 242-248, 243, 417
background of, 242-244
Bazaar and, 247-248
Beard’s marriage to, 335-336
earnings of, 331
Sports Illustrated and, 331-332
Tierney, Gene, 37, 141
Tilberis, Elizabeth, 430, 485-486
Time, 50, 83-84, 173, 331, 448
Time Out, 488
Times (London), 26-27
Tizani, Tilly, 197, 201
Tobe Report, 94
Today, 50, 144
Tomsen, Trice, 280
Tonight Show, The, 198, 199
Tonneson, Beatrice, 35
Top Floor (agency), 288
Top Model, 482
Toscani, Oliviero, 492
Town & Country, 52, 69, 84, 126
Townshend, Isabelle, 493
Townshend, Philip, 180
Toye, Teri, 423-426, 434, 493
Tracy, Charles, 345
Traissac, Beatrice, 6, 8, 285, 286, 377, 381
Tree, Herbert Beerbohm, 31
Tree, Penelope, 110, 224-225, 421
Trigére, Pauline, 237
Trinity, 426-429, 431-441
backlash against, 437-438
disbanding of, 439-441
Tripp, Evelyn, 128
Turkel, Ann, 201, 487
Turlington, Christy, 1, 3, 6, 8, 12, 150, 411-418, 413, 421, 441-442, 443, 468, 474, 489, 505-506
background of, 414-418
Calvin Klein’s contract with, 432-434
Eileen Ford and, 416-417
income of, 412, 437
Meisel and, 421, 426-429
as member of Trinity, 426-429, 431-440
21 International, 285-286, 288
Twiggy (Lesley Hornby), 179-183, 180, 241, 421, 422
Twiggy, an Autobiography (Twiggy), 181
Tyler, Barbara, 60
Tyler, Liv, 481
Tyson, Mike, 434-436
Ubhiroff, Harry, 70
Udell, Rochelle, 247
Ullman, Linn, 493
Unwerth, Ellen von, 475
Uomo Vogue, L’, 294
Valdes, Beverly, 237
Valletta, Amber, 9, 474, 488
Vanity Fair, 26, 108, 493
van Nuys, Mary, 196
Variani, Auro, 264, 284
Varsano, Maurice, 382
Varsano, Serge, 382-383, 467
Vassallo, Paolo, 287-288
Vela, Rosie, 342-343, 487
Vernet, Marie, 38
Versace, Gianni, 5, 6, 329, 380, 413, 436
Veruschka (Vera von Lehndorff), 184-192, 185, 218, 219, 241, 285, 332, 481
background of, 186-187
Eileen Ford and, 187-188
Leigh on, 184-186
Stone and, 188-189
Villeneuve, Justin de, 179-183, 180
Vingt Ans, 294
Vionnet, Madeleine, 42
Viva, 429
Vogue, 9-10, 16, 19, 20, 22, 24, 26, 36, 72, 78, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 86, 87, 88, 103, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110, 138, 144, 154, 164, 167, 172
, 182, 193, 200, 259, 261, 283, 291, 298, 332, 337, 346, 402, 425, 435, 439, 482, 486
advertising revenue of, 431
agencies and, 129-130
Bazaar’s rivalry with, 40, 77, 90, 130, 218, 254, 333, 376-377, 485
black models and, 237-239
British edition of, 50
Dell’Orefice and, 105, 146
Dovima and, 132-133
drug problem and, 350-351, 366
first fashion show of, 40
Horst and, 50-52
Hutton and, 218-221
Linblad and, 265-266
Mirabella fired from, 429-430
Mirabella’s arrival at, 253-254
models’ names published by, 224
ready-to-wear and, 376
Steichen and, 41, 42
Trinity and, 436-437
Turlington and, 416-417
Veruschka and, 186, 189
Vreeland’s tenure at, 169, 171, 181, 182, 189, 191, 223-224, 253-254
“Young Idea” feature of, 170
Voici, 27
von Saher, Edward, 339, 340-341
voucher system, 98-101, 105, 277
Voynovitch, Colonel, 159-161
Vreeland, Diana, 75, 80, 108, 109, 133, 225, 238, 265-266, 294, 332
at Bazaar, 78, 169, 189
Hutton and, 217-218
Mirabella’s replacement of, 191, 253-254
sixties look and, 224
Smith discovered by, 261
Twiggy and, 181, 182
Vogue tenure of, 169, 171, 181, 182, 189, 191, 223-224, 253-254
Vu, 78
Wagner, Gaby, 297, 304, 376, 396, 467, 468, 489
Wagner, Paul, 248, 249-252
waif look, 482, 486-488
Waite, Genevieve, 250
Walch, Alain, 308
Wangengheim, Chris von, 336, 376
Warhol, Andy, 229, 267, 293, 295, 344
Warren, John, 338-340, 341, 348
Watson, Albert, 19, 324, 342, 353
Watts, Richard, 144
Weaver, Sigourney, 244
Webb, Veronica, 5-6, 24, 443-448, 445
Weber, Bruce, 13, 414, 432, 444, 493, 494
Wechsler, Bob, 55, 56, 58
Weinberg, Bill, 337-339, 340, 341, 348, 351, 477, 478
Welch, Tahnee, 493
Wermelinger, Aline, 8, 495-497
White, Carol, 7
White, Nancy, 107, 231, 233, 237, 247
Whitney, Gertrude Vanderbilt, 39, 40
Whitney, Michael, 183
Who Is She?, 55
Why Not? (agency), 380
Wiedeck, Heidi, 201
Wilcox, Jessica, see Jones, Candy
Wilhelmina (Gertrude Behmenburg Cooper; Winnie Hart), 193-202, 195, 256, 265, 267, 290, 307, 310, 336-337, 364, 367, 378, 493
background and career of, 194-199
black models employed by, 235
Cooper and, see Cooper, Bruce
earnings of, 197, 202
Eileen Ford and, 196, 199-202
illness and death of, 339-340
Knudsen and, 363, 370, 371
will of, 340-341
Wilhelmina Models, 14, 193, 202, 207, 239, 250, 290, 295, 310, 311, 323, 337, 477, 478, 492
Williams, Chili, 55
Williams, Rachel, 474, 487
Williamson, Bob, 216, 220, 221
Wilson, Roger, 346, 431-432, 433, 441
Winchell, Walter, 60, 96
Wintour, Anna, 429-430, 431, 485-486
Wolfe, Julie, 355
Woman (agency), 486
Woman’s Own, 167
Women’s News Service, 50
Women’s Wear Daily, 247, 293, 422, 423
World Models, 288-289
World War II, 77-78
Worth, Charles, 38
Wyndham, Frances, 173
“youthquake” market, 173
Zachariasen, Jean-Pierre, 260, 265-266, 267, 279, 281, 450
Zadrick, Shana, 486
Zagami, Jo, 309
Zagury, Bob, 17, 284, 373, 454
Zavala, Juan, 241
Zeddis, Rusty, 239, 372
Ziegfeld Girls, 36
Zoli (Zoltan Rendessy), 248-252, 251, 267, 297, 327, 330, 335, 355-358, 409, 493
Zoom (agency), 468, 489
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I covered models, fashion, and fashion photography for a decade beginning in 1983 for Photo District News, the East Side Express, Manhattan, inc., Vanity Fair, The New York Times, and New York. Like the editors of each of those publications, William Morrow’s Paul Bresnick saw that there are dramatic depths to these most superficial of subjects, and made it possible for me to plumb them.
Modeling owes Richard Avedon a great debt. So do I. He pointed out to me that no one had ever told the story of the trade in pretty people and suggested I write this book.
Thanks, too, are due to the biggest names in modeling. Eileen, Jerry, and Katie Ford endured long interview sessions that I’m sure they would have preferred to avoid and gave me private rundowns on everyone in the industry. John Casablancas talked a blue streak through several morning-long conversations and was more open than I had any right to expect. François Lano was gracious enough to spend several hours with me on two separate trips to Paris. Dorian Leigh Parker was a wonderful hostess for the three days I spent with her—and far-and-away the most interesting, complex person I met in the modeling world.
Many people sat for interviews with me in the ten years I wrote about models and the year when I wrote about little else. Some have not been mentioned in the book. A few preferred it that way, and a few made it a condition of cooperation. I thank them in their anonymity. For the record, most are currently active in the fashion business and are justifiably concerned about remaining so. The rest were left out inadvertently or because there simply wasn’t space. Of those, I would particularly like to thank Susan Moncur and Marie Helvin, whose careers are given short shrift here. That’s because each of them has written her own book. Moncur’s spare, impressionistic They Still Shoot Models My Age and Helvin’s Catwalk are two of the best books by models on modeling. Naomi Sims’s How to Be a Top Model is the best of many guidebooks available and was the source of most of the information on her pioneering career.
Some special people gave me special courtesy. Helen Rogers was my entrée to the world of modeling, her conventions a story I stumbled upon in 1982. She introduced me to Jérôme Bonnouvrier. His willingness to share memories of his family’s thirty-five years in the modeling business was a gift. Suzy Parker Dillman is as delightful as she is different from her sister, Dorian. Polly Mellen is an inspiration always. Wilhelmina Cooper’s family, particularly Melissa Cooper, and her stepmother, Judith Duncanson Cooper, allowed me into an attic full of Wilhelmina’s belongings. More important was their desire to air the truth behind her legend. Judith Cooper also introduced me to Hannah Lee Sherman, who agreed to talk about her career for the first time since it ended almost sixty years ago.
Almost all my sources are cited in the text in a way that makes clear where information came from. Any quotations in the present tense (i.e., followed by “she says”) were spoken directly to me. Quotations from previously published sources are attributed in the past tense (i.e., “she said”). In general, newspaper and magazine clippings are not cited in the text. Most of the clippings came from two newspaper morgues, at the New York Post and at the Harry Ranson Humanities Research Center at the University of Texas in Austin, where the morgue of the defunct New York Journal-American remains a living resource. The Ranson Center’s Ken Craven deserves a special thanks. As the clippings often present or repeat unsourced information, I have tried to indicate in the text what may be exaggerated, one-sided, or apocryphal.
Only a few of the living key figures in the history of modeling refused to give interviews, or to update old ones. Bettina Graziani, Irving Penn, David Bailey, Twiggy Lawson, Jean Shrimpton, Bob Williamson, Arthur Elgort, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Steven Meis
el, Donna Broome, Terry Broome, Stephanie Seymour, Peter Brant, Jean-Pierre Dollé, Jacques Buchi and Claude Grangier of Models S.A. in Switzerland, Alan Finkelstein, Thierry Roussel, Penelope Tree, Alan Clore, Carlo Cabassi, and Patti Hansen all declined or didn’t respond to requests for interviews. Riccardo Gay began one and then never completed it. China Machado, Giorgio Piazzi, Karl Lagerfeld, Bill Helburn, Justin de Villeneuve, Kelly Emberg, Ann Turkel, Tony Spinelli, Susan Train, Peter Lindbergh, and Beverly Johnson all agreed to interviews that were never successfully arranged. Dorothea McGowan, Esme Marshall, Brian Duffy, Eileen Green, Cherry Marshall, Claudio Caccia, Giorgio Rotti, Pier Luigi Torri, Laura Royko, Joan Furboch, Lisa Vale, John Stember, Evelyn Tripp, and survivors of Walter Thornton and Sunny Harnett are believed to be living but could not be located.
However, hundreds of people in the world’s four modeling centers—New York, Paris, London, and Milan—and beyond took time to see me, talk to me on the telephone, or, at the least, confirm facts about themselves. I’d like to thank Azzedine Alaïa, Pucci Albanese, Suzy Amis, Marie Anderson, Sara Foley-Anderson, Ruth Ansel, Jeff Aquilon, Douglas Asch, Laraine Ashton, Gloria and Valerie Askew, Kevyn Aucoin, Lisa Baker, Judy Baldwin, Mark Balet, Bryan Bantry, Gianpaolo Barbieri, Neal Barr, Lillian Bassman, Kenneth Battelle, Peter Beard, Simone d’Aillencourt Benezeraf, Chuck Bennett, Gilles Bensimon, Marisa Berenson, Nancy Berg, Jacques Bergaud, Pauline Bernatchez, Olivier Bertrand, Bernadette Reinhardt Bishop, Bernard Blanceneaux, Nina Blanchard, Bill Blass, Anthony Bloomfield, Jeff Blynn, Gillian Bobroff, Beth Boldt, Christine Bolster, Eric Boman, Ulla Bomser, David Bonnouvrier, Giselle Bonnouvrier, Tina Bossidy, Ingrid Boulting, Nancy Bounds and Mark Sconce, Patti Boyd, Mark Bozek, Dan Brennan, Bob Brenner, Christie Brinkley (and her assistant, Margot McNabb), Dana Brockman, Emerick Branson, Barbara Brown, David Brown, Jean-Luc Brunel, Rose Bruner, Nan Bush, Jule Campbell, Umberto Caproni, Paul Caranicas, Christieve Carothers, Joyce Caruso, Tiziana Casali, Patrice Casanova, Shaun Casey, Oleg Cassini, Michel Castellano, Cindy Cathcart, Simon Chambers, Sue Charney, Jade Hobson Charnin, Alex Chatelain, Bennie Chavez, Servane Cherouat, Cheyenne, Jeanette Christjansen.