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    Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women

    Page 64
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      Esquire, 228, 346

      Euro-Planning/Stéphane Lanson, 292-293, 297, 298, 300, 398, 465

      Evangelista, Linda, 7, 12, 150, 407, 408-409, 412, 413, 416, 426, 429, 441-442, 459, 487

      background of, 427-428

      Meisel and, 433-435, 439

      as member of Trinity, 431, 433-440

      Evans, Charlie, 141

      Evans, Robert, 141, 348

      Eyes of Laura Mars, The, 350

      Face, The, 485

      Face of the 80s contest, 451, 472, 474

      Faces (agency), 479

      Faithfull, Marianne, 175

      Falkenburg, Jinx, 55-58, 57, 59, 73

      FAM, 399, 489-490

      Fame, Ltd., 352-354

      Farley, Lillian (Dinarzade), 40

      Fashion & Film, 239

      Fashion Bureau, 81, 86, 102, 103, 105

      Fashion Group, 96, 237, 425

      fashion magazines, 40-41

      British, 167

      pay scale of, 16

      photographers and, 77-78, 130

      World War II and, 77-78

      Fashion Model, 15, 277, 286, 376, 377, 387, 478

      fashion photography:

      Avedon and, 106-107

      disco culture and, 226-229

      first color fashion photo and, 41

      first known fashion photograph and, 38

      French Mob and, 255-256, 265, 280-281, 300

      London scene and, 163-167

      magazines and, 77-78, 130

      outdoor, 77-78

      Rayographs and, 39, 42

      subtext and, 107

      technology and, 38-39, 77-78

      Terrible Trio and, 153, 156, 167, 169-172, 181

      see also individual photographers

      Fath, Jacques, 117, 137, 138

      fees and earnings, 6, 16, 351, 500-501

      of black models, 238-239

      “reuse” payments, 312

      television residuals, 197

      Feitler, Bea, 247

      Feldman, Ed, 241

      Felicitas, 491

      Ferri, Fabrizio, 375, 492

      Ferry, Bryan, 298, 347

      Fertig, Bob, 36, 37, 48, 59, 60, 61-62, 64, 65-66

      Feurer, Hans, 282, 295

      Fiedler, Christa, 209, 277, 285, 286, 289

      Field, Simon, 314

      Figaro Madame, 428

      Filippachi, Daniel, 109

      Finkelstein, Alan, 351-355

      FitzGerald, Frances, 224-225

      Flagler, Palen, 50, 72

      Flanders, Annie, 424

      Fleischman, Mark, 328

      Foley-Anderson, Sara, 486, 488, 492

      Fonseca, José, 176, 379, 461

      Fonssagrives, Fernand, 51

      Fonssagrives, Lisa, 12, 51-54, 53, 83-84, 107, 137, 398

      Penn and, 84-85

      Foray, Betty, 237

      Forbach, Joan, 396

      Ford, Billy, 123, 200, 472, 473, 474

      Ford, Eileen, 5, 80, 83, 85, 93, 97, 113, 123, 124, 125, 129, 130, 133, 146, 171, 176, 207, 224, 228, 229, 231, 235, 246, 248, 255, 263, 265, 266, 267, 282, 283, 284, 290, 295, 298, 319, 337, 341, 343, 348, 350, 353, 355, 364, 374, 398, 407, 418, 457, 473, 474, 479, 494, 495

      Ford, Eileen (continued)

      background of, 92-94

      Brunel and, 4, 468-469, 471-472

      Casablancas’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380

      on Dick Cavett Show, 252-253

      Dovima and, 136, 208

      Europe visited by, 138-142

      Hutton and, 217, 218

      Knudsen and, 363, 370, 371

      Leigh and, 75, 105, 111-112, 204, 206, 208-209, 211

      Mullen affair and, 127-128

      Patchett and, 87-88

      retirement and, 472, 497-498

      Sawyer’s interview of, 468-469, 470

      Turlington and, 416-417

      21 International and, 285-286

      Twiggy and, 187-188

      Veruschka and, 187-188

      Wilhelmina and, 196, 199-202

      Ford, Gerard, 85, 92, 93, 94-95, 100, 101, 108, 129, 130, 132, 133, 146, 149, 172, 181, 197, 200, 202, 206-209, 221, 238, 246, 259, 279-280, 298, 302, 305, 307, 309, 311, 335, 337, 340, 343, 353, 355, 369, 370, 371, 375, 389, 398, 446, 460, 473, 474, 479, 504

      Conover and, 54-55

      Mullen’s affair with, 123-128

      Parker and, 118-119

      retirement and, 472, 497-498

      “reuse” payments and, 312

      21 International and, 285-286

      Ford, Jamie, 95, 123, 200, 472

      Ford, Katie, 140, 200, 418, 433, 472-474, 473, 480

      Ford, Lacey, 200, 472, 473

      Ford Models, 1, 14, 16, 37, 123, 133, 176, 197, 218, 229, 244, 246, 248, 259, 294, 353, 354, 440, 463, 504-505

      Billingsley and, 95-96

      black models and, 238

      commissions paid by, 475

      Dell’Orefice and, 146

      Elite’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380

      Esch’s attempted deal for, 479-480

      European expansion of, 138-140

      Face of the 80s contest of, 451, 472, 474

      Ford’s retirement and, 472, 497-498

      founding and growth of, 94-95

      Hartford Agency and, 101

      Leigh and, 94, 101, 105-106, 140

      lingerie posing and, 200

      Natálie and, 94-97, 130-131

      Paris branch of, 472-474, 480

      Parker sisters and, 116-118

      restructuring of, 480

      voucher system and, 100-101

      Forsman, Holly, 201

      Forth, Jane, 293

      Fortune, 193, 310

      Fortuny, Mariano, 45

      Foster, Julie, 336, 376

      Foster-Fell, Jeremy, 15, 17, 239-241, 478

      Foster-Fell, Judith, 239-241

      Frame, Bob, 19, 20

      Frances Gill Agency, 128, 197, 217

      Frank, Geraldine, 250

      Franken, Wallis, 303

      Franklin, Evelyn, 110

      Freedman, Bobby, 206, 207

      Freeman, Einson, 55, 58

      French, John, 164, 165-166, 167, 168

      French Connection, The, 306

      French Mob, 255-256, 265, 300

      approach of, 280-281

      Fressange, Inès de la, 380-381

      Freymann, Robert, 233-234

      Frieberg, Agneta, 201, 229

      Frissell, Toni, 36, 77, 108, 432

      Funny Face, 112, 117, 134

      Fürstenberg, Egon von, 272

      Galas, Dominique, 467, 475

      Galdi, Marcella, 374, 377, 398, 412

      Gallant, Ara, 191, 330

      Gambier, Colette, 277, 285, 286

      Gander, Louise, 488

      Garroway, Dave, 144

      Gastel, Giovanni, 474

      Gaulthier, Marilyn, 15, 489

      Gay, Riccardo, 1, 6, 8, 15, 277, 278, 283, 286-289, 305, 306, 373, 374, 375, 377, 384, 386, 389, 390, 395-396, 398, 459, 461-462

      Geffen, David, 250

      Gentlemen’s Quarterly, see GQ

      Gérald, Diane, 202, 204

      Gere, Richard, 10, 25-27, 482

      Gerli, Charles, 3

      Ghauri, Yasmeen, 6, 150, 412

      Gia’s Girls, 494

      Gibb, Christopher, 174

      Gibson Girls, 36

      Giddings, Janine, 488

      Gigli, Ormond, 201

      Gill, Frances, 128-129, 149, 239

      Gilles, Patrick, 382, 467

      Girl Who Had Everything, The (Leigh), 75

      Glamour, 16, 88, 132, 169, 226, 228, 230, 238, 242, 244, 246, 265-266, 320, 344-346, 420-421, 446, 486

      Glaviano, Marco, 10, 11, 22, 316, 419, 453

      Goalen, Barbara, 164

      Golden, Jack, 132-134

      Gollidge, Sylvia, 160

      Good Housekeeping, 74, 107

      Gordine-Dalley, Wynne, 176

      Goude, Jean-Paul, 320

      GQ, 10, 174, 410

      Grace Del Marco Model
    Agency, 237

      Graham, Robert, 362

      Grant, Cary, 73, 112-113

      Graziani, Bettina, 137, 138, 287

      Greco, Juliette, 137

      Greene, Alexander Plunket, 166

      Greene, Milton, 82, 107, 110

      Greenwell, Mary, 9, 23

      Griffin, Sunny, 199-202, 201, 226

      Grill, Frances, 424, 425, 427, 492-494

      Grimme, Jimmy, 415-417

      Grosjean, Brigitte, 283

      Gshopf, Eva, 229

      Gubernick, Lisa, 101

      Gudy, Maria, 201

      Gumkevitch, Natasha, 285, 286

      Gunning, Anne, 138, 139, 164

      Gunzburg, Nicolas de, 77, 217

      Haddad, Claude Mohammed, 4, 292-293, 297-298, 300, 301, 462-466, 467, 469, 471, 475, 489

      Haden-Guest, Anthony, 110, 309-310, 350

      Halinen, Maarit, 309, 312

      Hall, Bridget, 2, 494-495

      Hall, Jerry, 4, 291-293, 295-300, 299, 347, 366, 380, 381, 462, 483

      Halleran, Jane, 141, 186, 229

      Halliday, Johnny, 466

      Hamel, Veronica, 201

      Hamilton, David, 491

      Hamilton, Georgia, 98

      Hamilton, Shirley, 196

      Hammond, Celia, 153-158, 155, 167-168

      Hannagan, Steve, 32

      Hansen, Patti, 254, 336, 344-347, 345, 352, 355, 360-363, 487

      Hardison, Bethann, 238

      Harker, Paul, 204

      Harlé, Catherine, 204, 205, 211, 256, 276, 277, 284, 300

      Harlow, Shalom, 474, 488

      Harnett, Annemarie Margot Elfreda “Sunny,” 145-146, 147, 235

      Harper’s & Queen, 429

      Harper’s Bazaar, 16, 26, 36, 49, 51, 70, 72, 75, 76, 81, 82, 84, 106, 108, 117, 121, 133, 136, 146, 163, 164, 170, 173, 226, 231, 233, 237, 242, 262, 270, 324, 326, 429, 451, 452

      advertising revenue of, 431

      agencies and, 129-130

      Avedon’s contract with, 223

      celebrity fashions and, 247-248

      Italian edition of, 376

      Moss and, 486, 488

      Tiegs and, 247-248

      Vogue’s rivalry with, 40, 77, 90, 130, 218, 254, 333, 376-377, 485

      Vreeland at, 78, 169, 189

      waif look and, 486, 488

      Harris, Lara, 491

      Harrison, George, 153, 177, 178-179, 241

      Hart, Winnie, see Wilhelmina

      Hartford, Huntington, 61, 99, 129-130, 149

      background of, 98

      model agency of, 97, 101

      reputation of, 100

      voucher system and, 98-99

      Harth, Ellen, 239-240, 380

      Hartman, Patricia, 488

      Hartman, Rose, 296

      Hartnell, Norman, 159

      Hawkins, Dolores, 200, 201

      Hawks, Howard, 80

      Haydon, Charles, 340, 341

      Haywood, Spencer, 333-335

      Hayworth, Rita, 50, 73, 186

      Hedren, Tippi, 58

      Heimann, Richard, 146, 230

      Heintz, Kerstin, 259

      Helburn, Bill, 90, 226

      Helvin, Marie, 380, 381, 483

      Hemingway, Ernest, 49

      Hemingway, Margaux, 487

      Hemmings, David, 173, 186

      Hepburn, Audrey, 112

      Hepburn, Katherine, 50, 72

      Hernan, Kay, 37

      Héron, Guy, 380-381, 489

      Herrene, Astrid, 201, 219, 332

      Herrera, Reinaldo, 144

      Hesse, Paul, 55-56, 58

      Hewitt, Heather, 201

      Hiett, Steve, 280-281, 303, 491

      Hilbert, Victoria, 201

      Hill, David Octavius, 38

      Himmel, Paul, 110

      Hiro, 209, 218, 282

      Hitchcock, Jane, 487

      Hoare, Sarajane, 9, 13, 17, 22

      Högberg, Helen, 466, 467

      Hollingsworth, Toni, 97

      Hollingworth, West C., 207-208

      Holzer, Jane, 229, 425

      Horn, Steve, 229

      Hornby, Lesley, see Twiggy

      Horst, Horst P. (Horst Paul Albert Bohrmann), 50-52, 76, 78, 82, 103, 112, 117, 126, 421

      Horvath, Frank, 492

      Houlès, Pierre, 281, 317, 320, 324, 325, 326

      House & Garden, 430

      House of Style, 10, 23, 482

      Hoyningen-Huene, George, 39, 41, 42, 50-51, 52, 76, 78

      Hoyt, Russell, 96

      Hughes, Howard, 58, 81

      Hunter, Joe, 1, 6-7, 309, 326, 329, 352-353, 354, 474, 479-480

      Huntington, Pam, 250

      Huston, Anjelica, 110, 234

      Hutchence, Michael, 6

      Hutton, Barbara, 73

      Hutton, Lauren, 133, 200, 212-222, 213, 250, 254, 355, 442, 481, 487, 495

      Casablancas and, 454-456

      Eileen Ford and, 217, 218

      Vogue and, 218-221

      Iman, 314, 333-336, 334, 365, 376, 380, 457

      IMG (International Management Group), 14, 481-482

      Interview, 267

      Iooss, Walter, Jr., 331

      Ireland, Kathy, 482

      Irwin, Elaine, 150, 412, 482

      Jacobson, Max, 233-234

      Jaeckin, Just, 280, 281

      Jagger, Bianca, 250

      Jagger, Harriet, 483

      Jagger, Mick, 170, 174-175, 229, 250, 297, 298

      James, Charles, 163

      James, Maudie, 481

      Janis, Byron, 108

      Janssen, Barbara, 201

      Jardin des Modes, 204

      Jelke, Minot Frazier, III, 64

      Jenny O, 493

      Joel, Billy, 313

      Joffe, Constantin, 82

      Johanssen, Ingmarie, 301

      John Robert Powers (agency), 31-36, 44, 47, 50, 52, 54, 80

      competition and, 37-38

      expansion of, 59-61

      Johnson, Beverly, 239, 352

      Johnson, Jay, 294

      Johnson, Kate, 226

      Jones, Brian, 174, 175

      Jones, Candy (Jessica Wilcox), 55, 62-64, 63, 65-68, 81

      Jones, Grace, 4, 292, 295

      Jones, Jennifer, 37, 50, 83

      Jones, Samantha, 201

      Jones, Tommy Lee, 350

      Jonvelle, Jean Francois, 264

      Jordan, Donna, 293, 295, 487

      Journal des Dames et des Modes, 38

      Juba, Dorothy Virginia Margaret, see Dovima

      Juliette, 491

      Jungle Fever, 447

      Junior Bazaar, 106-107

      Kalfus, Jordan, 171, 172, 233

      Kansbod, Lena, 303

      Kaplan, Richard, 118, 146, 149

      Karins, 15, 434, 467-469, 470, 471-472, 478

      Kark, Leslie, 160, 163, 176-177

      Kates, Faith, 477, 478

      Kattan, Lizette, 314, 376

      Keating, Peter, 355

      Keeble, Kezia, 424-425

      Keko, Hellevi, 201

      Kelly, Grace, 58, 80, 129

      Kendall, Kate, 178

      Kenmore, Carolyn, 252

      Kennedy, Jacqueline, 141, 233

      Kennedy, John F., 144, 149, 233

      Kent, Allegra, 234

      Kerbox, Buzzy, 493

      Kertesz, André, 77

      Kibblewhite, Norman, 163

      Kilgallen, Dorothy, 96, 136

      King, Bill, 169, 262, 268-269, 366, 369

      King, Harry, 170, 342

      Kirkland, Sally, 138

      Kironde, Katiti, II, 238

      Kittler, Alain, 272, 276, 306-307, 308, 309, 310, 397, 398, 400, 451, 452, 459, 460, 461-462, 481, 496

      Klein, Anne, 96, 238

      Klein, Calvin, 13, 16, 314, 329, 340, 344, 351, 412

      Moss and, 486-487

      Turlington’s contract with, 432-434

      Klein, Stephen, 411, 414

      Klein, William, 29, 151, 210, 333

      Klercker, Brigitta, 219

      Knapp, Peter, 204, 291

      Knaster, Polly Ferguson, 100, 129-130

      Knudsen, Bitten, 335, 359, 360, 362,
    363, 365-372, 376

      Kohlman, Lynn, 301

      Kosner, Edward, 458

      Kounovsky, Nicholas, 82

      Kraft, Lee, 218

      Krainin, Ewing, 128

      Krainin, Fan, 128, 129; see also Gill, Frances

      Ladies’ Home Journal, 74, 87, 108, 118, 231, 236, 237-238

      Laeticia, 491

      Lagerfeld, Karl, 295, 297, 300, 448, 477

      Laidlaw-Thompson, Fiona, 155

      Lambert, Eleanor, 96, 237

      Lamy, Francois, 301, 364, 376

      Landshoff, Herman, 102

      Lange, Jessica, 336

      Lano, Francois, 202-204, 203, 206, 207, 208, 250, 255, 261, 264, 265, 267, 276, 283, 284, 286-287, 302, 303-304, 306-307, 310, 384-386, 396, 399, 402, 466

      Lanson, Stéphane, 204, 286, 287, 292-293, 300, 382, 384, 386

      Lantz, Barbara, 356-357, 358

      Lanza, Suzanne, 491

      Lanzotti, Roberto, 378, 381, 382, 386, 441

      Larsen, Gunnar, 271, 276, 280

      Larson, Anne, 201

      Lategan, Barry, 181, 280, 301

      Lauren, Ralph, 485, 493

      Lawford, Chris, 493

      Lawrence, Gertrude, 106

      Le Baube, Guy, 303, 347, 450

      Le Bon, Yasmin Parveneh, 5

      LeBrock, Kelly, 431, 444

      Lecca, Dan, 361, 413

      Lee, Spike, 447

      LeFevbre, Monique, 140

      Legends, 481

      Lehndorff, Vera von, see Veruschka

      Lei, 425

      Leigh, Dorian (Elizabeth Dorian Leigh Parker), 10, 12, 52, 81, 85, 86, 90, 110, 128, 131, 149, 187, 196, 200, 228, 255-256, 279, 284-285, 398, 472

      Avedon and, 107-109, 119-120

      background of, 75-76

      Ben-Gurion and, 204-206

      Chatelain and, 282-283

     


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