I never had an actual birthday party when I was a child. As with any other social happening, it was the sort of thing that made me far too nervous. Sure, there would be cake and a few presents, but a noisy gathering of friends and balloons? That just couldn’t happen. Whatever anxieties I felt at seven, however, were magnified tenfold when I reached seventy and people started to mention the possibility of a large-scale birthday celebration.
As the day approached in the spring of 2011, Anna said, “Your big birthday is coming up, and I’m going to give you a party. Have it where you like and however many people you like.” (Funny how she likes celebrating other people’s birthdays but ignores her own.) Twenty years had come and gone since she had organized my fiftieth at the restaurant Indochine during our early days at Vogue, when we could laugh about retiring together.
Anna approached Didier and said she would like to host the party with him, possibly because she knew it was the only guaranteed way of getting him to show up. I designed the menu, the cake, and the invitation, the cover of which was a cartoon-like pen drawing of Anna wearing Prada and Didier wearing a suit. I was compelled to add some sketches of our cats dressed in their party finest, with Bart in a suit like Didier’s and Pumpkin wearing Balenciaga. Which, coincidentally, turned out to be the same dress Anna wore to the festivities.
At the office Anna said she hoped I didn’t mind, but I would have to celebrate my birthday a week early because she didn’t want my event to clash with that of the annual Costume Institute gala at the Met. She didn’t want there to be “two big parties back to back.” I agreed, of course. But I started to get anxious. Exactly how big was she expecting my party to be?
Everyone kept suggesting very new restaurants. Some might not have been new enough, because Anna likes nothing more than to take over a place that hasn’t opened yet. But finally, just as it had years before, it came down to Indochine. The restaurant was experiencing a big revival and the food was great.
The party was a roaring success. Everyone came, including Condé Nast’s proprietor, S. I. Newhouse; Carey Mulligan, an actress I adore; Helmut Lang, who rarely leaves his home on Long Island; my old boss Calvin Klein; Seth Meyers, who had made me laugh so much on a shoot once that my sides ached; Arthur Elgort; Bruce Weber; Craig McDean; tons of designers from New York and Europe; all my favorite models; everyone from the fashion and art departments; and ten of my former assistants from British and American Vogue. I was so overwhelmed, it all went kind of blurry, as it does every time I’m the center of attention.
Hamish Bowles and the model-turned-singer Karen Elson sang “Happy Birthday.” Bruce, Marc Jacobs, Didier, and Jessica Diehl (one of my ex-assistants) all said a kind word. Didier made some drily amusing comments about me, telling everyone, “It took a long time for me to be acknowledged by her.” And “Grace is always right, as her many friends and assistants will attest.”
Naturally, Anna made a speech. “Grace,” she jokingly began, “this is going to be your favorite part of the evening, when we all get to talk about you.” Then she continued, “To me you will always be the heart and soul of the magazine, its guardian at the gate, its beacon of excellence. For about as long as I have edited Vogue, one person, Grace Coddington, has made me excited to come into the office every day.…”
Menu, invitation, and place cards for my seventieth birthday party, 2011
I was speechless. This from a woman who normally never pays you a compliment to your face! How could I possibly respond? I could click my heels in the air or turn cartwheels, but my regular sessions of Pilates were not quite that effective. I could laugh and cry at the thought that so many painstaking years of toil were held in such esteem. I could shimmy across the dance floor knowing I still had some life in me yet.
While these thoughts were running through my head, I looked at the many photographers, hairstylists, makeup artists, art directors, fellow editors, and ex-assistants around me, and realized I don’t really have a single friend who isn’t in the business. Which is perfectly fine by me.
So am I still that completely fascinated by fashion? In many ways, yes. Having worked in it for over fifty years, I gratefully accept that my world has expanded with time, not contracted. Fashion has opened up many opportunities for me beyond the printed page, and the future is alive with diverse possibilities: illustrations (I had so much fun drawing the pages for this book); a chance to make an animated feature based on my cat sketches; directing a series of documentaries (and yes, it most likely would be about fashion.)
Whatever it is, I would hope my work will always be created with the personal touch that several modern aspects of being a fashion editor no longer afford me. For instance, I was recently involved in a photo shoot where the subject was to be replaced by a stand-in. Only the real subject’s head would be featured, grafted onto the stand-in’s shoulders thanks to the science-fiction wonders of Photoshop. Unbelievably shocking.
But I’ve grown to realize that life doesn’t stand still and it’s no good being sad about it. For me, one of the most important aspects of my work is to give people something to dream about, just as I used to dream all those years ago as a child looking at beautiful photographs. I still weave dreams, finding inspiration wherever I can and looking for romance in the real, not the digital, world.
All I know is that if I continue in fashion, no matter what, my head will always remain firmly attached to my body.
SELECTED WORK
BRITISH VOGUE
1968—1987
1. Norman Parkinson, 1973
2. Norman Parkinson, 1973
3. Norman Parkinson, 1971
4. Norman Parkinson, 1971
5. Guy Bourdin, 1972
6. Guy Bourdin, 1975
7. Guy Bourdin, 1971
8. Guy Bourdin, 1977
9. Helmut Newton, 1974
10. Helmut Newton, 1974
11. Helmut Newton, 1973
12. Helmut Newton, 1973
13. Alex Chatelain, 1979
14. Alex Chatelain, 1979
15. Barry Lategan, 1983
16. Barry Lategan, 1983
17. Bruce Weber, 1984
18. Bruce Weber, 1984
19. Bruce Weber, 1981
20. Bruce Weber, 1981
AMERICAN VOGUE
1988—2012
21. Arthur Elgort, 1991
22. Arthur Elgort, 1995
23. Arthur Elgort, 2001
24. Arthur Elgort, 1995
25. Steven Meisel, 1992
26. Steven Meisel, 1992
28. Steven Meisel, 2009
29. Ellen von Unwerth, 1992
30. Ellen von Unwerth, 1994
31. Ellen von Unwerth, 1990
32. Ellen von Unwerth, 1993
33. Peter Lindbergh, 1991
34. Peter Lindbergh, 2011
35. Peter Lindbergh, 2010
36. Peter Lindbergh, 2011
37. Annie Leibovitz, 2003
38. Annie Leibovitz, 2003
39. Annie Leibovitz, 2005
40. Annie Leibovitz, 2005
41. Annie Leibovitz, 2001
42. Annie Leibovitz, 1999
43. Annie Leibovitz, 2009
44. Annie Leibovitz, 2010
45. Bruce Weber, 1989
46. Bruce Weber, 1989
47. Bruce Weber, 1990
48. Bruce Weber, 1991
49. Mario Testino, 1997
50. Mario Testino, 1998
51. Mario Testino, 2007
52. Mario Testino, 2009
53. Steven Klein, 2003
54. Steven Klein, 2003
55. Steven Klein, 2003
56. Steven Klein, 2003
57. Mert & Marcus, 2009
58. Mert & Marcus, 2009
59. Mert & Marcus, 2010
60. Mert & Marcus, 2010
61. David Sims, 2010
62. David Sims, 2011
63. David Sims, 2007
64.
David Sims, 2010
65. Craig McDean, 2007
66. Craig McDean, 2002
67. Craig McDean, 2012
68. Craig McDean, 2012
INFORMATION
BRITISH VOGUE
Norman Parkinson
1. Barbados 1973, Apollonia van Ravenstein
2. Barbados 1973, Apollonia van Ravenstein
3. Seychelles 1971, Apollonia van Ravenstein
4. Seychelles 1971, Apollonia van Ravenstein
© Norman Parkinson Limited/courtesy Norman Parkinson Archive
Guy Bourdin
5. Paris, 1972, Aija. Hair: Didier Malige
6. Normandie, 1975, Carrie Nygren, Kathy Quirk
6a. Normandie, 1975, Carrie Nygren, Kathy Quirk, with Grace Coddington
7. London, 1971, Sue Baloo. Hair: Oliver Bond
8. France 1977, Kathy Quirk, Audrey, Carrie Nygren. Hair: Valentin. Makeup: Heidi Morawetz
Helmut Newton
9. France, 1974, Kathy Quirk with Julie Kavanagh. Hair: Bruce Libre
10. France, 1974, Kathy Quirk. Hair: Bruce Libre
11. France, 1973, Danielle Poe and models, with Grace Coddington. Hair: Jean Louis David
12. France, 1973, Danielle Poe and models, with Grace Coddington. Hair: Jean Louis David
Alex Chatelain
13. China, 1979, Esmé. Hair: Kerry Warn
14. China, 1979, Esmé. Hair: Kerry Warn
Barry Lategan
15. Venice, 1983, Elisabetta Ramella. Hair: Didier Malige
16. Venice, 1983, Elisabetta Ramella. Hair: Didier Malige
Bruce Weber
17. England, 1984, Victoria Lockwood. Hair: Didier Malige
18. England, 1984, Victoria Lockwood. Hair: Didier Malige
19. New Mexico, 1981, Jon Wiedemann, Sloane Condren. Hair: Howard Fugler
20. New Mexico, 1981, Jon Wiedemann, Sloane Condren. Hair: Howard Fugler
Courtesy of Vogue © The Condé Nast Publications Ltd
Arthur Elgort
21. Scottland, 1991, Linda Evangelista. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Sonia Kashuk
22. Long Island, 1995, Stella Tennant. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Sonia Kashuk
23. California, 2001, Stella Tennant. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Gucci Westman
24. England, 1995, Donovan Leitch and Kirsty Hume. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Mary Greenwell
Steven Meisel
25. Paris, 1992, Linda Evangelista, Kristen McMenamy. Hair: Garren. Makeup: François Nars
26. USA, 1992, Kristen McMenamy, Nadja Auermann. Hair: Garren. Makeup: Denise Markey
27. Paris, 1993, Jean Paul Gaultier Group: Nadja Auermann, Daniel Baylock, Nadege, Amber Valletta, Kristen McMenamy, Linda Evangelista, David Boals, Shalom Harlow, Naomi Campbell, Jay Littlewood, Christy Turlington. Hair: Orlando Pita. Makeup: Denise Markey
28. New York, 2009, Models: Sasha Pivaverova, Karen Elson. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Pat McGrath
Ellen von Unwerth
29. Morocco, 1992, Nadja Auermann. Hair: Oribe. Makeup: Laurie Starrett
30. Jamaica, 1994, Debbie Deitering with Rebecca Forteau. Hair: Peter Savic. Makeup: Laurie Starrett
31. France, 1990, Christy Turlington with Stéphane Ferrara. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Laurie Starrett
32. USA, 1993, Christy Turlington, Jaime Rishar, Keith Martin. Hair: Peter Savic
Peter Lindbergh
33. Brooklyn, 1991, Helena Christensen, Stephanie Seymour, Karen Mulder, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford. Hair: Odile Gilbert. Makeup: Stephane Marais
34. Palmdale, 2011, Daria Werbowy with David Strathairn. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Stephane Marais
35. Long Island, 2010, Natalia Vodianova with Ewan McGregor. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Stephane Marais
36. Los Angeles, 2011, Lara Stone with Alexander Skarsgård. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Stephane Marais
Annie Leibovitz
37. France, 2003, Natalia Vodianova with Stephen Jones and Christian Lacroix. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Gucci Westman
38. France, 2003, Natalia Vodianova with Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Gucci Westman
39. USA, 2005, Keira Knightley with Brice Marden. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Gucci Westman
40. USA, 2005, Keira Knightley with John Currin. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Gucci Westman
41. Paris, 2001, Stella Tennant, Jacquetta Wheeler, with Ben Stiller. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Stephane Marais
42. Paris, 1999, Kate Moss with Diddy. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Diane Kendal
43. New York, 2009, Lily Cole with Andrew Garfield, Lady Gaga. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Gucci Westman
44. Nashville, 2010, Karen Elson with Mark Watrous, Jackson Smith, Rachelle Garniez, Olivia Jean, and Marc Fellis. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Gucci Westman
Bruce Weber
45. USA, 1989, Naomi Campbell with Mike Tyson and Don King. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Francois Nars
46. USA, 1989, Naomi Campbell with Mike Tyson. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Francois Nars
47. USA 1990, B.B. King, Nadege. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Bonnie Maller
48. Bellport, N.Y., 1991, Beverly Peele with Another Bad Creation. Hair: Didier Malige. Makeup: Denise Markey
Mario Testino
49. Italy, 1998, Gisele Bündchen, Fernanda Tavares, Frankie Rayder. Hair: Marc Lopez. Makeup: Kay Montano
50. Rio de Janeiro, 1997, Amber Valletta. Hair: Orlando Pita. Makeup: Tom Pecheux
51. New York, 2007, Daria Werbowy with George Condo. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Stephane Marais
52. New York, 2009, Daria Werbowy with Jimmy Fallon. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Linda Cantello
Steven Klein
53. New York, 2003, Liya Kebede, Natalia Vodianova, Elise Crombez, Eugenia Volodina. Hair: Orlando Pita. Makeup: Polly Osmond
54. New York, 2003, Liya Kebede and Natalia Vodianova. Hair: Orlando Pita. Makeup: Polly Osmond
55. New York, 2003, Natalia Vodianova with Justin Portman. Hair: Luigi Murenu. Makeup: Gucci Westman
56. New York, 2003, Natalia Vodianova with her son Lucas. Hair: Luigi Murenu. Makeup: Gucci Westman
Mert & Marcus
57. England, 2009, Natalia Vodianova. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Charlotte Tilbury
58. England, 2009, Natalia Vodianova. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Charlotte Tilbury
59. New Jersey, 2010, Lara Stone. Hair: Luigi Murenu. Makeup: Lucia Peroni
60. New Jersey, 2010, Lara Stone. Hair: Luigi Murenu. Makeup: Lucia Peroni
David Sims
61. Cornwall, 2010, Stella Tennant. Hair: Guido. Makeup: Diane Kendal
62. Cornwall, 2011, Arizona Muse with Jeremy Irvine. Hair: Guido. Makeup: Diane Kendal
63. Paris, 2007, Raquel Zimmermann. Hair: Guido. Makeup: Peter Philips
64. Jamaica, 2010, Daria Werbowy. Hair: Guido. Makeup: Diane Kendal
Craig McDean
65. New York, 2007, Raquel Zimmermann. Hair: Eugene Souleiman. Makeup: Peter Philips
66. Paris, 2002, Maggie Rizer. Hair: Luigi Murenu. Makeup: Diane Kendal
67. Toulon, 2012, Natalia Vodianova. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Stephane Marais
68. Toulon, 2012, Natalia Vodianova with Michael Fassbender. Hair: Julien d’Ys. Makeup: Stephane Marais
Courtesy of Vogue © The Condé Nast Publications Ltd
Still lifes of magazine spreads by Tim Hout
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Given that I’ve barely read two books in my life that aren’t picture books, no one is more surprised than me that I have produced a memoir. For that, I owe a debt to R. J. Cutler for getting anyone intrigued enough in me to read it because of his film The September Issue, and to my publishers, Susan Kamil and Clara Farmer, for the leap of faith they made in commissioning it. After listening to me for so many years, my former assistant Tina Chai convinced me that I have had a life worth talking about, and pushed me to go forward. I thank her for her
friendship and encouragement—and also for being my companion to all the movies that have given me so much inspiration.