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    Flavor

    Page 30
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      pleasure, and reward, 42

      pleasure palace, 105

      poblano peppers, 90

      polyphenols, 208

      polyunsaturated fats, 235–36

      potassium, 32, 100, 216

      potato chips, 104, 111

      potatoes, 221–22

      Prescott, John, 110

      Pringles potato chips, 111

      propionic acid, 241

      propylthiouracil (PROP), 14, 34, 37, 38, 41

      protein molecules, 52

      proteins, 16, 22, 34, 184, 207, 238, 266

      Proust, Marcel, 5, 77

      pseudogenes, 53

      “pure compounds,” 198

      putrid (caprylic or goaty), 50

      quantum tunneling, 48–49

      quinine, 38, 41

      radicchio, bitterness of, 25

      rancidity, 35–36

      rattlesnakes, 89

      Red Bull, 193, 199

      Reed, Danielle, 25, 39–42, 43

      reinforcement, intermittent, 139

      repulsive odor, 61

      research:

      on coffee, 111–12, 224

      creating flavors, 164–201

      GWAS, 152

      on how to grill a steak, 238–40

      meta-analyses, 222–23

      olfaction, 44–61

      Pavlov and, 135

      placebos in, 27, 28

      on rodents, 35, 36, 134–35, 150–51, 162

      on satiety, 147–48, 150–51, 162

      on wine grapes, 215–19

      resiniferatoxin, 90

      respiratory passages, taste receptors in, 33–34

      retronasal olfaction, 68–71, 176

      ripeness, 115, 205, 208, 212

      Rolls, Edmund, 122–23, 127–29, 146

      Roosevelt, Franklin D., 228

      root beer, 175–76

      Roquet, Laurence, 178

      rose scent, 45–46

      rotten odor, 62

      Rozin, Paul, 8, 96

      Rutgers University, 42

      Saarinen, Eero, 252

      saccharin, 29, 30

      safrole, 175

      saliva, 40

      salt, 25, 28

      and blood pressure, 31

      as flavor enhancer, 31, 266

      reducing sodium in, 31–32

      salt substitutes, 31–33

      salty taste, 8, 16, 22, 34, 115, 247

      sanshool, 100, 102

      sassafras root, 175

      satiety signals, 162

      sausages, 32–33

      savor, use of term, 8

      Scent of Mystery (movie), 81

      Schatzker, Mark, 196

      Sclafani, Anthony, 134–35

      Scoville, Wilbur, 89

      Scoville heat units, 89–90, 93, 97

      scratch-and-sniff cards, 81

      sea lions, 17

      seasonal ingredients, 242

      seasoning, 4–5

      secondary compounds, 223

      secondary metabolites, 207

      seeds:

      dropping, 208

      poisons in, 209

      sensation seekers, 98

      senses:

      and cultures, 109, 241

      interplay of, 2–3, 5, 9

      purposes of, 47–48

      sensitivity to reward, 98

      sensory integration, 117–21

      sensory neuroscience, 122

      sensory-specific satiety, 129, 145–46, 150

      sensory template, 160

      Serer-Ndut people of Senegal, 62

      serrano peppers, 90

      shaking hands, 66

      “shapists,” 49

      Shepherd, Gordon, 56–57, 68, 71, 121

      Neurogastronomy, 57

      Silver Palate Cookbook, The (Rosso and Lukins), 264

      Simons, Chris, 99–100

      sinus infections, 34

      skatole, 235

      Slow Food movement, 264–65, 267–68

      Small, Dana, 132, 136–38, 162, 208

      small plates, 145–46

      smell:

      artificially reproduced sensations of, 80–85

      deconstructing, 60–61, 63

      information gleaned from, 5, 8, 15

      loss of sense of, 151, 152–61

      as process, 68

      “sense of,” 68–70

      as synthetic sense, 55

      testing, 63–64

      triangle test, 51–52

      see also olfaction

      Smell-O-Vision, 81

      snack foods, pairings, 246

      sniffing, 68, 69

      Sobel, Bob, 164–66, 168, 169, 176, 183–84, 266

      Sobel, Noam, 57–58, 64, 66, 67, 71, 164

      sodium, 22, 26, 31–32, 34

      sodium chloride, 28

      sodium citrate, 76

      soils:

      effects on flavor, 219

      unique microbial ecosystems in, 218, 220

      vineyard, 216–17

      solubility, 232–33

      somatosensation, 87, 104

      sorbet, 102

      sound:

      flavor affected by, 111–13

      frequency of vibration, 61

      sour taste, 8, 16, 17, 22, 28, 34

      soy sauce, 240

      Spence, Charles, 107–14, 116–17, 121, 257

      spices, 4–5

      spicy odor, 61

      spinach, research in, 214–15

      squash, 224–26

      how to roast, 225

      Starbucks White Chocolate Mocha, 195

      starches:

      and sugars, 16

      taste for, 36

      steak:

      how to grill, 238–40

      sizzle of, 110–11

      Stevenson, Richard, 109

      stevia, 30

      stomach, fullness in, 147–48

      strawberries, 108

      creating the flavor of, 82–83, 173–75, 176–77, 196

      expectation of, 116, 117

      flavor in, 212–14, 220

      flavor vs. yield in, 212

      genotyping, 213

      growing temperatures of, 213–14

      hydroponic production of, 214

      as “nonclimacteric fruit,” 212

      volatile chemicals in, 212–13

      strawberry aldehyde, 83

      sucralose, 29

      sucrose, 28, 30, 109

      sugars, 23, 25, 181

      in diet, 150–51

      in fruits, 203, 210, 212, 225, 227

      low-sugar diet, 144–45

      and Maillard reaction, 236–37

      peak sweetness in, 30

      in plants, 207

      reduction of, 197

      in soft drinks, 30

      as source of calories, 16

      sulfur atoms, 184, 238

      supertasters, 13–15, 37–38, 39

      food adventurous, 42–43

      and pain in chilis, 96

      picky eaters, 42

      Suya of Brazil, 61–62

      sweet taste, 8, 16, 22–23, 28

      artificial sweeteners, 29–30, 139

      craving for, 144–45

      loss of ability to discern, 17

      perception of, 210

      popularity of, 28–31

      sweet taste receptors, 30–31, 33, 34, 40

      tagette oil, 168

      tannins, 87

      tastant, 22

      taste:

      as analytic sense, 55

      and aroma, 109

      broad categories of, 16

      decisions based on, 17, 48

      fading with age, 156

      five basic tastes, 8, 10, 16, 22–23, 50, 61

      genetic differences in perceptions of, 39–43

      intensity of, 38

      interactions of, 37

      learned, 35, 42, 121, 133

      other types of, 36–37, 50

      use of term, 8–9

      and viscosity, 94

      taste buds, 13, 38–39

      Taste Buds and Molecules (Chartier), 248

      taste cells, 22

      taste receptors, 22–23, 24, 28, 72

      all over the body,
    33

      and genetics, 152

      loss of, in disease, 20

      promiscuous, 23

      T1R3, 23, 40–41

      T2R19, 41

      T2R31, 30

      T2R38, 34, 37–38, 41–42, 221

      on the tongue, 38–39, 48, 96

      taste sensitivity, 39

      tasting menus, 145–46

      tea, 102–3

      Technical University of Munich, 83

      Tepper, Beverly, 42–43

      terpenes, 232–33

      terpinyl propionate, 170

      terroir, 218

      Texas A&M University, 238

      texture, 104, 149

      Thai bird’s eye chili, 86, 90, 93

      thalamus, 58

      thiol, 218, 266

      thiourea group, 38, 41–42

      This, Hervé, 197–201

      thought:

      as flavor sense, 123

      higher-order, 131

      Time-Life, Foods of the World, 264

      Tiny Tim, 51–52

      Todd, Mike, Jr., 81

      Tohono O’odham people, 264–65

      Tolstoy, Leo, 22

      tomatoes, 202–7

      alleles of, 226–27

      avoiding refrigeration of, 210–11

      commercial traits of, 204

      demand for flavor in, 211

      flavor sacrificed for yields, 203, 210

      heirlooms, 204, 211, 227

      nutrients in, 208

      red color of, 206–7, 226

      sold “on the vine,” 211

      supermarket, 202–3

      sweetness in, 206–7, 210

      volatile odor compounds in, 203, 205–6, 209–10

      water in, 203

      tomato intensity, 206

      tomato stem smell, 210

      tongue:

      taste buds on, 13, 38–39

      taste maps of, 17–18

      taste receptors on, 38–39, 48, 96

      tonic water, 37, 41

      touch receptors, 95

      and astringency, 102–4

      TRPM8, 89

      TRPV1, 88–89, 91, 93, 96

      toxins, bitter tastes of, 16–17, 33, 34, 48

      transcranial magnetic stimulation (TMS), 130–31

      trial and error, 241, 247

      triangle test, 51–52

      trigeminal sense, 87

      triglycerides, 35–36

      trimethylamine, 247

      Trought, Mike, 215–17

      truffles, 75

      TV dinners, 262, 263

      2-ethylfenchol (2-EF), 79

      Twombly, Cy, 57

      umami taste, 8, 16, 17, 22–23, 24–28

      and benzaldehyde, 109

      foods rich in, 28

      and MSG, 25–28

      umami taste receptors, 24–25, 33, 34, 40

      University of Bordeaux, France, 115

      University of California, Davis, 192, 204, 215, 258, 270

      University of California, Riverside, 179

      University of Copenhagen, 249

      University of Florida, Gainesville, 202

      University of Pennsylvania, Smell and Taste Center, 153–54

      University of Pennsylvania Smell Identification Test (UPSIT), 46–47, 155

      University of Reading, England, 219

      urinous odor, 62

      U.S. Army, field rations, 244–46

      vampire bats, taste loss of, 17

      vanillin, 80, 168, 195–96, 201

      vegetables:

      caramelization of, 238

      commodity system for, 224–25

      dissuading you from eating them, 208

      enzyme activity in, 221

      flavor changes after picking, 221–22

      flavor in, 205, 208–9

      organic, 222–34

      storage of, 221–22

      venison, 114

      Venter, Craig, 53

      ventriloquists, 118

      ventromedial prefrontal cortex, 138

      “vibrationists,” 49

      vinegar, 28, 169

      viscosity, 94

      vision:

      and change blindness, 67

      sense of, 55, 56, 130–31

      visual rhyme, and expectations, 114–16

      viticulturists, 215

      voices, sounds of, 51–52

      volatile aroma molecules, 203, 205–6, 207–10, 212–13, 221, 227, 232–33, 236

      volatility, 51, 52

      below-threshold, 210

      refrigeration vs., 210–11

      Wagstaff, Carol, 219–21

      wasabi, 88, 94

      wasabi receptor, 88

      water:

      basic taste for, 36

      effect on flavor, 219

      in fruit, 203

      watermelon, 168

      water solubility, 232–33

      Watson supercomputer, 252–57

      weight control, 145, 146–47, 161

      Whitaker, Vance, 211–14, 220

      wine:

      aroma wheel, 192–93

      astringency in, 102–3

      competitions of, 124–25

      decanting, 258–59

      expectation in, 115–16

      fermentation phase in, 218, 240

      flavor perception of, 123–27, 215

      learning about, 270

      “minerality” of, 216–17

      mouthfeel of, 87

      and music, 113

      of New Zealand, 215–19, 268

      paired with foods, 230–31, 248

      presentation of, 257–59

      sauvignon blanc, 218–19, 230

      and soil, 216–17

      and terroir, 218

      and yeast, 218, 219

      wine experts, noses of, 60–61, 76, 268

      wine grapes, research on, 215–19

      wintergreen, 175–76

      Wise, Paul, 101

      words, flavors in, 113

      Wrangham, Richard, 4

      Wysocki, Charles, 74–75, 79, 157

      Yager, Patricia, 153–56, 159, 160–61

      yeast, 218, 219, 240, 241

      yogurt, 114, 116

      Yupik people, 143

      Zampini, Max, 111

      Zearfoss, Jonathan, 229–32, 242

      Zhen, Willa, 265

      Copyright © 2017 by Bob Holmes

      All rights reserved

      First Edition

      For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book,

      write to Permissions, W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.,

      500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

      For information about special discounts for bulk purchases, please contact

      W. W. Norton Special Sales at specialsales@wwnorton.com or 800-233-4830

      Book design by Chris Welch

      Production manager: Louise Mattarelliano

      JACKET DESIGN: CHIN-YEE LAI

      JACKET PHOTOGRAPHS: (FRONT) CATHY SCOLA / GETTY IMAGES; (BACK) ISTOCKPHOTO.

      COM

      The Library of Congress has cataloged the printed edition as follows:

      Names: Holmes, Bob (Evolutionary biologist), author.

      Title: Flavor : the science of our most neglected sense / Bob Holmes.

      Description: First edition. | New York : W.W. Norton & Company, [2017] |

      “Independent Publishers Since 1923.” | Includes bibliographical references and index.

      Identifiers: LCCN 2016046897 | ISBN 9780393244427 (hardcover)

      Subjects: LCSH: Taste. | Taste buds. | Flavor. | Senses and sensation.

      Classification: LCC QP456 .H66 2017 | DDC 612.8/7—dc23

      LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016046897

      ISBN 978-0-393-24443-4 (e-book)

      W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.

      500 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10110

      www.wwnorton.com

      W. W. Norton & Company Ltd.

      15 Carlisle Street, London W1D 3BS

     

     

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