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    How to Fly (In Ten Thousand Easy Lessons)

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      By involving fiber

      in my invocation

      of divinity,

      I feel assured

      of a fairly positive outcome.

      How to Love Your Neighbor

      All of them. Not just the morning shoppers,

      the man who walks his chortling dog, the couples

      with strawberry children. These are the given.

      Announce your rebel kindness in letters painted

      much too large on the back of your jacket. Children

      will stare, dogs bark. Doors bolt. Anyway, walk.

      Your shoes will wear out, and then your knees.

      You will feel the cold’s every angle, the want of rain,

      a drought of blessings. Your vanished face.

      Close by, behind dust-colored curtains, a woman

      wrapping her hijab—girding herself for the street

      of this day—will call to her husband: Come see.

      These two will kneel at their window.

      Mercy wears lightning bolts on her shoulder. Threads

      of fire in her white hair. The face of the sun.

      How to Be Hopeful

      Look, you might as well know,

      this device is going to take endless repair:

      rubber cement, rubber bands, tapioca,

      the square of the hypotenuse,

      nineteenth-century novels, sunrise—

      any of these could be useful. Also feathers.

      The ignition is tricky. Sometimes

      you have to stand on an incline

      where things look possible. Or a line

      you drew yourself. Or the grocery line,

      making faces at a toddler, secretly,

      over his mother’s shoulder.

      You may have to pop the clutch

      and run past the evidence. Past everyone

      who is praying for you. Passing

      all previous records is ok, or passing

      strange. Just not passing it up.

      Or park it and fly by the seat of your pants.

      With nothing in the bank, you will

      still want to take the express. Tiptoe

      past the dogs of the apocalypse

      asleep in the shade of your future.

      Pay at the window. You’ll be surprised:

      you can pass off hope like a bad check.

      You still have time, that’s the thing.

      To make it good.

      2

      Pellegrinaggio

      I. Pellegrinaggio

      At the end of the long bowling alley lane

      of a transatlantic flight, we crash and topple

      like pins in the back of a Roman taxi.

      Split or spare, hard to say what we are but

      family, piled across one another: husband

      and wife, our two daughters, his mother

      Giovanna who has waited eighty years

      to see what she’s made of.

      Her parents, flung out from here like messages

      in bottles, washed up on a new shore and grew

      together. Grew celery for the Americans. Grew this

      daughter who walked to school, sewed a new

      cut of skirt, and became the small interpreter

      for a family. They took her at her word but stamped

      a map called home on a life she believed would end

      before she could ever come here to find it.

      What other gift could we give her? But now our taxi

      crawls like a green bottlefly through the ear canals

      of a city, it is half-past something I can’t stand

      one more minute of, and I wonder what we were

      thinking. We all might die before we find a place

      to lie in this bed we’ve made for her. Beside me

      she sits upright, mast of our log-pile ship in this bottle.

      Made of everything that has brought us this far.

      II. The Roman Circus

      Navigating the tram:

      Do not mount the car without a ticket.

      Your ticket must be purchased

      within the car.

      Exchanging traveler’s checks:

      Go to the Spanish Steps! everyone agrees, for there

      (and nowhere else) officials will accept our deficient

      currency and throw baskets of money upon us.

      The Spanish Steps:

      Excuse the inconvenience as

      the American Express is closed.

      The Pantheon:

      Do not doubt that a yogurt-flavored gelato

      could be unparalleled in civilized human experience.

      Or the fig, as a close second.

      Trevi Fountain:

      Elbow yourself into the crowd

      of travelers throwing coins

      to guarantee another journey here, more elbows,

      more chances, one more coin.

      III. On the Piazza

      Through the scent of grilled fish

      a tarantella rises from the boy

      in tattered jeans but startling shoes—

      formal, black, perfectly polished—

      who plays his violin as if this

      teeming plaza were Carnegie Hall

      and his shoes, in that case, correct.

      We drink Chianti and keep an eye

      on the sweet-talking boys who cruise

      like sleek reef fish, slip bracelets

      onto our daughters’ pretty wrists:

      One euro, or your phone number.

      Jugglers stab at the darkness

      with flaming knives or the modern

      electric equivalent. But the one who’s

      got me is the tall masked pharaoh

      in a gold drape who stands

      immobile on a box, hour upon

      hour, his statuesque illusion

      a frozen, untouched island

      in the churning human torrent,

      except for his silent, folded bow

      when a coin is dropped at his feet.

      Later, relief arrives. The pharaoh

      wriggles free of his gilded cocoon—

      the metamorphosis—and his brother

      crawls in to take his shift. I imagine

      their small apartment shared with

      other immigrants from an African

      village of emptied-out fields,

      the intimacy of these two brothers

      living mostly just the one life now

      on Piazza Navona inside a golden sheet.

      IV. Into the Abruzzo

      Vomipeligna, the kids will later

      name this. Car pulled over

      onto the grassy verge of a much-too-

      winding road, the pale among us helping

      the ones beyond it. How quickly

      a roving family may find togetherness.

      We are trying to find our way back

      to the motherland. For air I wander into

      a field and find wild peonies blooming.

      Dancing, madly fragrant. Who knew

      the portly bouquets of Memorial Days

      hailed from such winsome hay-haired kin?

      Here to remind me of graveyards

      and surprising sites of origin.

      A mountain that holds us to its secrets.

      These feral granite ranges gave the world

      children, the mother of my mother-in-law,

      her son, our family, and peonies.

      V. In Torricella, Finding Her Mother’s House

      Here is the church. Mamma went

      every day, not just to pray but to sing.

      The boys dropped spiders on the girls

      from the balcony. One of the boys, she liked.

      Here is the house beside the church

      where the lawyer lived. He was rich.

      Mamma came every morning

      to help the lawyer’s wife dress

      and comb her long hair, to earn a coin.

      Six doors down, here is the house

      where she lived. Where her papa died.

      Wher
    e they had nothing. Out of this door

      they went, she and her sister as children.

      They stood on this step to say goodbye.

      A stagecoach to Naples, from there a ship,

      to live with the cousin in Denver who

      had a tavern. Girls could work there.

      They didn’t know the cousin. Here is

      the graveyard where she saw her papa

      buried, the doorstep where she kissed

      the mamma she would never see again.

      Over the ocean to make her way,

      it started here.

      Look at this view.

      Why did she never tell me it was

      beautiful here? Never speak of so much,

      so much she left behind.

      VI. Circumnavigating Torricella Peligna

      Giovanna wants to know

      what there is to know about

      this mountain. Anything her mother

      might have seen if she walked

      downhill. Expecting not a lot, we

      drive through towns, each smaller

      than the one before. A church,

      a fountain. The town band on

      the square, all the young faces

      behind the bright blossoming bells

      of their instruments, the pollen

      drift of their music. The pozzo

      where cold water wells up

      from the stone heart of the land.

      A trattoria, a waiter who somehow

      sees everything, famiglia. Asks

      younger guests to move so she

      will have the best view. Tells our

      girls their nonna is an encyclopedia.

      They should read her every day.

      We watch clouds tease like a veil

      across the forested bluffs, but she is

      watching the mountain, her true north.

      VII. Pompeii

      It’s terrible, but we want to know

      all about the unfortunates caught flat

      when the mountain blew. We’ve read the

      firsthand account by Pliny the Younger,

      imagined the bay clogged with pumice,

      the screamers running around with

      pillows clasped to their heads. Now

      in the streets of their city we step high

      on great stone crosswalks designed

      for simultaneous passage of wagon wheels,

      pedestrians, and sewage. We admire

      the murals in their villas (in vogue then: red,

      and Egypt). Eager voyeurs, we drink it in

      like those doomed souls lined up

      at the taverns with their jugs. We visit

      the brothel and then the stadium with

      perfect acoustics that make us sing.

      Saved for last, the Garden of Fugitives,

      where mothers clung to their children

      behind the high wall, clawing for escape.

      Fossilized on their upturned faces we see

      the belief that anyone would recognize:

      in one more minute we will breathe again.

      As people do, we’ve come looking

      for proof that the dead of the past were just

      like us. And grow quiet, having found it.

      VIII. At the Top of Mount Vesuvius

      The view from here—

      down flower-bronzed slopes

      to the apron of cities from Naples

      to Sorrento—is one long allowance

      of habitation along the bay.

      How many lives have hugged this sea,

      how many eyes lifted to this crater

      wondering when she might throw

      her next fit of boiling lava?

      Puddled mounds like cow dung

      reveal themselves to be buried towns.

      A fringe of steam leaks from the crater’s

      smile. Her breath has notes of sulfur.

      But underneath this fine flat pledge of sky

      the sea is calm. The blood-red roofs.

      Even the newest houses, bone-colored,

      and the many more under construction.

      The view from here reaches backward

      into centuries; from down there forward only

      as far as half-past tomorrow.

      IX. Swimming in the Bay of Naples

      You float. I am not kidding.

      Your own shocking toes rise up

      to let you know. This is not

      like the cloying dark ponds of

      childhood, or the college pool

      where my lank leaden frame

      angled down and down beneath

      the bluster of the swimming

      instructor who insisted I would

      float if I just applied myself.

      How could I know? I had only

      to acquire an Italian family

      and follow it here to this sweetly

      salted sea like a fat featherbed

      where a body can lie in repose

      considering the successes

      of civilized people. Never mind

      what’s below, the real estate

      of old shipwrecks. I will stay

      up here. Now that I know the secret.

      X. On the Train to Sicily

      In a family compartment we take the long

      ride south, down the coast and across the channel

      to the patria of her father. She is so tired.

      We’ve lifted her onto the sill of this urbane clatter,

      tucked ourselves in a cupboard of relative

      peace, but now her small frame finds no resting

      place on the great square seats. We offer

      pillows, sips of water. She only says, Don’t worry.

      Panoramas pass in dramatic excess: castles,

      vineyards, splendidly pointed mountains cloaked

      in olive trees. We feel abashed for these

      wonders, but worry that we’ve dragged her bones

      through too many stations of this cross.

      The unstoppable rhythm of filial love pulls us on

      and on along its track. South of Cetraro

      our cupboard is invaded: a girl. Deep blue hair

      drawn low across her brow like a wartime

      blackout curtain. Inked with skulls and crossbones

      to her knuckles, dark eyes resting loose

      on the air overhead. She ignores us.

      We rock in a silent tedium of mutual discomfort,

      willing this suddenly scrambled nest into something

      whole again, when the ring of her mobile

      snaps her into focus, window flung wide: Ciao, Mamma!

      XI. Monreale

      My grandmother came here just once.

      People rarely traveled in those days,

      she tells us, as we navigate the twisting

      approach, steering wheel arm over elbow,

      not far outside Palermo but what a road.

      She spoke of it for the rest of her life.

      She had never seen anything like it.

      Afterward we grow talkative with

      our marvel at the cathedral, its golden

      mosaics and honeycombed ceiling,

      chatter about the different kinds of

      beauty, our good luck at seeing

      a wedding party arrive, that dress

      of hers. The white Rolls-Royce

      parked in front! Our marvel wanders.

      Giovanna in the back seat closes her eyes:

      I’m going to be quiet now

      and think about my grandmother.

      XII. Lemon-Orchard Blue

      The language has its words

      for blue—azzurro, blu, ciano—

      and it could use some more.

      Tranquil sea, tormented sea,

      shallow and deep, stormy but stippled

      with light, a blue where anything

      could be hiding behind an alibi

      of sepia ink. And this does not begin

      to address the sky: glazed

      like a Moorish
    tile, or furtive

      as a memory of Vesuvius.

      Innocent as a twenty-cent postcard.

      These are the sturdy blues

      that stand in line for an eye to call out.

      Others wait behind them: the blue,

      for instance, that was always here

      stretched tight as a laundered sheet

      above the orchard where a point-eared dog

      stalks his lizard and the lemon trees

      bend their arms, whitewashed to the elbow,

      pushing flat bouquets of leaves

      against heaven, the wheeling swallows,

      and one season’s ration of cloud.

      XIII. The Road to Erice Is Paved with Intentions

      My mother-in-law, as she puts it, has intentions.

      Advice from a priest to carry a heart

      past unbearable losses, a husband and daughter,

      and strike its path through one more day:

      Get up and make intentions.

      I intend to call a friend on the phone.

      I intend to notice the flowers in the yard.

      It cannot be easy to be this old, with a heart

      tugged by loss and a family’s interventions

      across the stones of Sicily. But on we go, I declare

      the plan for our day: we will drive to Erice.

      Picture us up there gazing down at the water,

      across the blue southern seas. If the day

      is fine, I intend for us to see all the way to Rome.

      Erice has other intentions, remains a hard

      medieval gleam on the mountaintop—shaved

      white scoop of vanilla ice on a tall volcanic cone.

      It melts as we lurch and falter up the winding trace

      where so many men try to stop us. First, a scare

      with a flagman, next the funicular man, and then

      the carabinieri. But I am intent: we slip by.

      At a roadblock, we are forced to park the car.

      Boldly I link my arm through hers and declare

      to all men gathered there, “I’ve brought her

      this far. We are going to walk to Erice.” They wave

      and waggle their heads as if we are Verdi’s demented

      foreign witches. But she and I with heads held high

      march past their barricade. And that is when

      they start screaming, “Una gara!” With the rising roar

      it dawns: gara, garage, holy mother, an auto race.

      Flung to the ditch, our hearts surpassing all known

     


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