passes the Icefall, 1;
aspires to reach the Col, 1, 2;
makes Camp 2, 1;
climbing pains, 1, 2;
trip back to Camp 1, 1;
visions of Kathleen, 1;
has slot-fall, 1, 2;
returns to Base Camp, 1;
thinks of Kathleen, 1;
last night at Base Camp, 1;
descent from Base Camp, 1;
future plans, 1
Greig, Donald Stewart Andrew tells plans to, 1;
death, 1, 2
gripped, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Haji Mahdi 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7;
first meeting with, 1;
runs ‘shop’, 1;
character, 1;
trip over the river with, 1
Haramosh, 1
Hartog, John, 1, 2, 3
Ibex Trail
first party finds, 1;
Andrew examines, 1;
Andrew uses, 1, 2, 3, 4
Icefall 1, 2, 3, 4, 5;
Andrew and, 1, 2, 3
Iglesias, Julio (finest singer in the world?), 1
Islamabad, 1
Jamie, Kathleen 1;
decides to join expedition, 1, 2, 3;
leaves for Pakistan, 1;
journey to the mountains, 1, 2;
at Skardu, 1;
and the financial problems, 1, 2;
problems over visiting Base Camp, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5;
journey to Askole, 1, 2, 3;
along the Braldu river, 1, 2, 3;
effects of altitude on, 1;
in Askole, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5;
left behind in Askole, 1;
and the rope bridge, 1;
and the notes from Sandy, 1, 2;
relations with Burt, 1;
and Duff’s arrival in Askole, 1;
goes up to Base Camp, 1;
arrives at Base Camp, 1;
at Base Camp, 1, 2, 3;
on the Ibex Trail, 1;
leaves the mountain, 1, 2, 3;
Andrew has visions of, 1;
Andrew thinks of, 1;
Andrew gets note from, 1
Jhaved, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13
Jolla Bridge, 1, 2
Jones, Indiana, 1, 2, 3
K2, 1
Kali, 1
Kashmal, 1
Khomeini, Ayatollah, 1
Lobsang Spire, 1
MacInnes, Hamish, 1
McLeod, Charlie, 1, 2
Man from Lahore, 1
Masherbrum, 1, 2
Matthiessen, Peter, 1
medical checks, 1, 2
Men on Ice, 1, 2, 3
Messner, Rheinhold, 1, 2, 3
Montrose, Duke of, 1
Moss, Rocky, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
Murree, 1
Mustagh, first sighting of, 1
Mustagh glacier, 1, 2
Nanga Parbat, 1, 2
Nazir, 1
open-heart surgery, 1
Paiju, 1
Paiju Peak, 1, 2
Pastry, heavy, 1, 2;
maximum, 1, 2, 3;
sweet, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Patey, Tom, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
political discussion, 1, 2
porters, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
Quartz Block, 1, 2
Rawalpindi, 1, 2
red tape, 1
Reid, Alex joins the party, 1;
journey to the mountains, 1;
character, 1, 2;
leaves Askole, 1;
at Base Camp, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5;
on the Icefall, 1;
cooks pancakes, 1;
introduces Andrew to the ice, 1, 2;
goes to Camp 1, 1, 2;
sickness, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6;
loses control, 1;
climbs to Camp 2, 1;
trip back to Camp 1, 1;
returns to Base Camp, 1;
summit fever, 1, 2;
restlessness, 1, 2;
future plans, 1;
abandons Gasherbrum 2 attempt, 1
Robbie, the Himalayan chimp, 1
rope, throw me down some more, 1
rope bridges, 1
self interests, 1
Shiite Moslems, 1, 2
Shokat, Captain 1, 2, 3;
late arrival, 1;
character, 1, 2;
and the financial problems, 1, 2;
to remain in Askole, 1;
journey to Base Camp, 1, 2, 3, 4;
arranges helicopter for Burt, 1;
at Base Camp, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5;
departure from the mountain, 1;
returns to Base Camp, 1;
future plans, 1;
at Gasherbrum 1, 1
Skardu, 1, 2, 3
sponsorship, 1
Sprunt, Brian, 1, 2
stick, death-on-a, 1, 2, 3 stylee good, 1, 2;
rubadub, 1;
bin- man, 1;
F.S. Smythe, 1;
Duke of Edinburgh, 1;
Humphrey Bogart, 1;
John Wayne, 1;
roughhouse, 1;
Scottie, 1;
Alpine, 1;
Himalayan 1
sulphur pools, 1, 2
summit plans for attempt on, 1;
assault on, 1;
Duff and Tony reach, 1;
Jon and Sandy reach, 1;
descent from, 1
Sybil 1;
character, 1;
journey to the mountains, 1, 2;
and the financial problems, 1, 2;
problems over visiting Base Camp, 1,
along the Braldu river, 1;
goes off with English climbers, 1
Tasker, Joe, 1
tents, 1
Tinker, Jon Andrew meets, 1;
and Tony Brindle, 1, 2;
financial support, 1;
character, 1, 2, 3, 4;
leaves for Pakistan, 1;
reservations about Andrew as author, 1;
and medical checks, 1;
journey to the mountains, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5;
and the financial problems, 1, 2, 3;
along the Braldu river, 1, 2, 3, 4;
in Chongpo, 1;
in Askole, 1;
leaves Askole, 1;
at Base Camp, 1, 2ff;
at Camp 1, 1;
diary, 1, 2;
sets up Camp 2, 1, 2, 3;
relations with Sandy, 1, 2, 3, 4;
fixes ropes up to the Col, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5;
recovers strength, 1, 2;
on Andrew, 1;
snow at Camp 2, 1, 2, 3;
returns to Base Camp, 1;
takes Alex to Camp 1, 1, 2;
suggests joint summit attempt, 1;
and the assault on the summit, 1;
reaches the summit, 1;
saves Sandy, 1;
descent, 1, 2, 3;
future plans, 1;
abandons Gasherbrum 2 attempt, 1
tolerance, 1
Trango Peak, 1, 2
Trango Tower, 1, 2, 3, 4
two shakes, 1
Urdukas, 1
Voytek, 1
walking out, 1
wazzock, 1, 2, 3
White Tiger, 1, 2, 3
About the Author
Andrew Greig was born in 1951 in Bannockburn, Scotland, and is a former Glasgow University Writing Fellow and Scottish Arts Council Scottish/Canadian Exchange Fellow. A poet and novelist as well as non-fiction writer, two of his collections of poetry reflect his interest in mountaineering, Men on Ice (1977) and The Order of the Day (1990), and when he published Summit Fever it was shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker Memorial Prize; he followed it up with another book on climbing, Kingdoms of Experience: Everest, the Unclimbed Ridge (1986). His most recent novel, In Another Light (2004), won the 2004 Saltire Society Scottish Book of the Year Award.
BY THE SAME AUTHOR
&n
bsp; Poetry
MEN ON ICE
SURVIVING PASSAGES
A FLAME IN YOUR HEART (vith KATHLEEN JAMIE)
THE ORDER OF THE DAY
WESTERN SWING
INTO YOU
Novels
ELECTRIC BRAE
THE RETURN OF JOHN MCNAB
WHEN THEY LAY BARE
THAT SUMMER
IN ANOTHER LIGHT
Mountaineering
KINGDOMS OF EXPERIENCE
Copyright
First published in Great Britain in 1985
by Hutchinson & Co (Publishers) Ltd
Revised edition first published in 1997 by Canongate Books Ltd
14 High Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1TE
This digital edition first published in 2009
by Canongate Books
Copyright © Andrew Greig, 1985
Copyright introduction © Joe Simpson, 1997
Colour photographs copyright © S. Allan, T. Brindle,
M. Duff, A. Greig
All rights reserved
The publishers gratefully acknowledges the assistance of a Scottish Arts Council Writer’s Bursary while writing this book
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available on request from the British Library
ISBN 978 1 84767 750 1
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