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    Never a City So Real

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      For Cahan, the project had from the beginning seemed like an opportunity to freeze-frame America, and what better place to do that than in Chicago. Ordered and bedraggled. Excessive and austere. Familiar and foreign. An imperfect city, a city of quixotic quests and of reluctant resignation. A city that was, Algren once wrote, the product “of Man’s endless war against himself.” These are Chicago’s truths but they are also, after all, America’s truths, and they always have been.

      I’ve heard it suggested that Chicago is passé. The steel mills have closed. Public housing is coming down. The mob has been dismantled. And, Chicago is no longer hog butcher to the world. Even the city’s one claim to edginess, Playboy magazine, has picked up shop and moved. “I love Chicago,” the magazine’s new editor who’s now based in New York told a reporter. “It’s my second favorite city.” The city, though, always finds a way to move on: Now, for example, with more than a hundred sweets manufacturers, it has become the world’s candy capital. (As I write, two large confectioners have announced their closing; it is, indeed, a city in motion.)

      When Comer first considered his project, it was because he’d been struck by the vast physical changes here, but in the end, what he captured was a people—a people evolving, a people shifting and changing, a people finding their way. I asked Comer why he thought the photographs of Chicago had become such an attraction abroad. “Because,” he replied simply, “the place is real.”

      ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

      Thanks to Tony Fitzpatrick, Kale Williams, Andrew Patner, Nancy Drew, Julie Aimen, Isabel Wilkerson, Rachel Reinwald, John Houston, Dan Kotlowitz, Melissa Fay Greene, Amy Dorn, and my wife’s family. A grateful nod to This American Life and The Atlantic, where I had told much of the Cicero story before, and to Chicago Public Radio, where I first told of meeting Milton Reed. Of course, with gratitude and for their patience: Ed Sadlowski, Millie Wortham, Brenda Stephenson, Milton Reed, Andrea Lyon, Bob Guinan, John Celikoski, and Dave Boyle.

      Thanks to my friends Alice Truax, who, with her usual grace and exactness, nudged me when my storytelling was out of whack; Kevin Horan, who kept me from going off half-cocked; and Tim Samuelson, who kept me from getting it wrong. (Any errors, of course, are my own doing.) And to Studs Terkel, whose friendship and work has inspired.

      To Doug Pepper, for asking—and for seeing it through with such care and good cheer. It’s a better book for it. And to David Black, my agent and good friend, for making it happen, as always.

      Finally, to my father, Bob Kotlowitz, for all good things. And to my beloved wife, Maria, who keeps me real.

      ALSO IN THE CROWN JOURNEYS SERIES

      Land’s End: A Walk in Provincetown

      by Michael Cunningham

      After the Dance: A Walk Through Carnival

      by Edwidge Danticat

      City of the Soul: A Walk in Rome

      by William Murray

      Washington Schlepped Here: Walking in the Nation’s Capital by Christopher Buckley

      Hallowed Ground: A Walk at Gettysburg

      by James McPherson

      Fugitives and Refugees: A Walk in Portland, Oregon

      by Chuck Palahniuk

      Blues City: A Walk in Oakland by Ishmael Reed

      Time and Tide: A Walk Through Nantucket

      by Frank Conroy

      Lost in My Own Backyard: A Walk in Yellowstone National Park by Tim Cahill

      ABOUT THE AUTHOR

      Alex Kotlowitz is the author of The Other Side of the River and There Are No Children Here, which the New York Public Library named as one of the most important books of the twentieth century. A former staff writer at the Wall Street Journal, his work has appeared in The New York Times Magazine and The New Yorker, as well as on This American Life and PBS. He has received the George Foster Peabody Award, the Robert F. Kennedy Journalism Award, and the George Polk Award. He is a writer-in-residence at Northwestern University and a visiting professor at the University of Notre Dame.

      ALSO BY ALEX KOTLOWITZ

      The Other Side of the River

      There Are No Children Here

      Grateful acknowledgment is made to Donadio & Olson, Inc., for permission to reprint an excerpt from Chicago: City on the Make by Nelson Algren. Copyright © 1951 by Nelson Algren. Reprinted by permission of Donadio & Olson, Inc.

      Copyright © 2004 by Alex Kotlowitz

      All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.

      Published by Crown Journeys, an imprint of Crown Publishers, New York, New York

      Member of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.

      www.crownpublishing.com

      CROWN JOURNEYS and the Crown Journeys colophon are trademarks of Random House, Inc.

      Title page photograph © Sandy Felsenthal/CORBIS

      Map by Jackie Aher

      Map source: City 2000

      Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

      Kotlowitz, Alex.

      Never a city so real: a walk in Chicago / Alex Kotlowitz.

      1. Chicago (Ill.)—Social life and customs. 2. Chicago (Ill.)—Biography.

      3. Chicago (Ill.)—Description and travel. I. Title.

      F548.3.K68 2004

      977.3′11–dc22 2004002860

      eISBN: 978-1-4000-9750-0

      v3.0

     

     

     



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