spread of, 182
See also Reformation
purgatory, 162–63
Puritanism, 182
Raju, Alison, 193
Rand, Ayn, 144–45
Reformation
and Abbey of Saint-Maurice, 188
and Calvin, 175, 177–82
Catholic Church’s response to, 179
and debate in Lausanne (1536), 166
and execution of Servetus, 180–81, 182, 183
in Geneva, 177–81, 183
and Luther’s flaws, 172, 173
and spread of Protestant movement, 182
refugees and asylum seekers
in Calais, 36–41
fear and loathing of, 150
and French culture/identity, 38, 39
and French police, 36, 40–41
Pope Francis on, 249
Reims, France, xiv, xvi
Cathedral of Notre-Dame, 105, 107
and Holy Ampulla, 98, 100–101, 104, 105, 107
Palace of Tau, 107
Smiling Angel of, 107–8
relics, 317–19
author’s perspective on, at end of pilgrimage, 319
and corruption in the church, 167–68
Gutenberg’s business in, 169
Holy Prepuce, 318–19
of Saint Amé, 191
of Saint Augustine, 234, 244
of Saint Francis, 267, 271
of Saint Pancras, 5
of Saint Thomas Becket, 18–19
and teachings of Christ, 319
religion, declining belief and practice of, 5–6, 47–48
Religion of Humanity, 145
Renaissance, 124, 280
Richards, Jo, 21
Robespierre, Maximilien, 145
Romans
arrival in Britain, 31
and Augustus, 224–25
and Canterbury, 14, 15
and Christianity, 77, 101–2, 103, 308
and Etruscans, 308
and execution of Saint Pancras, 5
fall of Empire, 44, 100, 102–3
and Pax Romana, 225
religious tolerance of, 101
road-building skills of, 116
written documents of, 46
Rome, xv, 196
author in, 320–25
and Castel Sant’Angelo, 321–22
as end of pilgrimage, 309, 314–15
fire in, 318
Pantheon of, 225–26, 260
sack of, sixteenth century, 68
and Saint Benedict, 56
Sarcophagus of the Spouses in, 325
as seat of papacy, 278
and shift of papal seat to Viterbo, 299
slave labor in, 260
Spanish Steps in, 324
Trajan’s column in, 260
Romulus Augustulus, 102–3
Rose of Viterbo, Saint, 299–300
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, 135, 140, 144
Ruggiero, Antonella, 243
Rühl, Philippe, 105
Russia, 150
Saint. See also under St.
Saint Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, Paris, 125
Saint Bernard dogs, 207–8, 214
Saint John the Baptist church, Péronne, 71
Saint Martin’s church, Canterbury, 19–22
Saint-Omer, France, xvi, 42–49
arrival of Christianity in, 44
Bibliothèque de Saint-Omer, 45
Jesuit college, 49
monastery founded in, 43–44, 45
rare books of, 40, 42–43, 44, 45–47, 49
Saint Erkembode’s tomb in, 48–49, 114
scribes and scriptorium of, 42, 44, 46, 47, 310
Saint-Oyen, Italy, 217
Saint-Thierry, France, 97
Saint Thomas church, Canterbury, 18
sainthood, 77–78, 222
San Frediano church, Lucca, 261–62
San Gimignano, Italy, 196, 274–77, 284
San Marco convent, Florence, 280–83
San Miniato, Italy, 196, 266, 272
San Pietro e Paolo church, Buonconvento, 286
Santa Croce in Gerusalemme church, Rome, 317
Santa Maria del Parto church, Sutri, 308
Santhià, Italy, 196, 233, 240–42
Sarcophagus of the Spouses, 325
Savonarola, Girolamo, 280–82
Savoy region, 219–20
Schama, Simon, 145
Schindler, Dietrich, 100
Schwemin, Ralph, 106, 118, 141, 165
science
and Catholic Church, 143–44, 320–21
and execution of Bruno, 320
and origins of life, 176–77
and persecution of Galileo, 263, 321
and Pope Francis, 143–44, 263, 321
Scotland, 69, 182
Search for Meaning festival, Seattle, 8, 131
Secours Catholique, 40–41
Servetus, Michael, 175–76, 178, 179–81, 182–83
sexual abuse scandals of the church, 165
and author’s family, 141, 154–61, 194, 327
and celibacy of clerics, 90
epidemic levels of, 249–50
global summit on, 250
and Pope Francis, 32, 160, 194, 249–50, 327
and Pope John Paul II, 159
public reaction to, 51
and suicides, 156, 250
sexual assaults
and droit du seigneur, 105
and forgiveness, 250
and Saint Agatha, 241
of women on wedding nights, 105, 233
sexuality
and birth control, 94
conflicted views of, 83–84, 87–91
and Gnostic Gospels, 86–87
and Jesus, 83–85
and Luther, 94
and Mary Magdalene, 85, 86–87, 90–91
and Pope Francis, 94–95
and Saint Augustine, 88, 89–90, 94, 114, 234
and virginity, 82–83, 84, 85, 88–89, 91, 93–94
See also abstinence/celibacy
Shakespeare, William, 46–47
Siena, 196, 277–80, 284
Sigeric the Serious, archbishop of Canterbury, 40
record of pilgrimage, 40, 312
route to Rome, 4, 8, 39, 109, 238
Sigismund, King of Burgundy, 187, 188, 190
Sims, Ron, 304, 305
Skellig Michael island, Ireland, 57–58
Skylstad, William, 157, 159
slavery, 260
Slow Food movement, 248–49
Smiling Angel statue, Reims, 107–8
social media, 143
Society of Jesus, 323. See also Jesuit House, Gonzaga University; Jesuit priests
Spain, 98, 103–4, 150
Spanish Steps, Rome, 324
Spiritual Exercises (Saint Ignatius Loyola), 323
St. Moritz, Switzerland, 190
St. Pancras station, London, 4–5
St. Peter’s Basilica, 196, 325–27
architecture of, 326–27
as end point of pilgrimage, 4
financed with indulgences, 163, 168
views of, from Castel Sant’Angelo, 322
and violent mutiny of Catholics, 68
St. Thomas Seminary, Kenmore, Washington, 158
Stele Statues, in Italy, 256
stigmata, 270, 271, 272
stories
atheism’s lack of, 146
persuasive power of, 273
suffering, S
aint Augustine on role of, 240
Sundborg, Stephen, 26–27, 28, 69
Sutri, Italy, 196, 307–8
Sweden, 26
Switzerland, xv, 132
absence of state religion in, 182
and Great Saint Bernard Pass, 186, 192–93, 201, 202–4, 205–6
pluralism in, 176
and Swiss Guard, 190
tolerance in, 175
wine of, 166
syphilis, 281
Syria, 36, 38
Taddeo di Bartolo, 274–75
Teilhard de Chardin, Pierre, 177
testaroli, 256, 258
Tetzel, Johann, 168, 169
Theodosius, 101
Thérouanne, France, 69
cathedral, 67–68
thinking during pilgrimage, time for, 259, 276, 313
Thirty Years War, 125–26
Thomas (apostle), relic of, 318
Thomas Aquinas, Saint, 229
time
chronos and kairos, 21, 151, 315
defiance of, 325
and Franciscan friars, 153
required for pilgrimage, 8, 326
for thinking on pilgrimages, 259, 276, 313
Titulus Crucis, 318
Tolstoy, Leo, 272
Torquemada, Tomás de, 281
Tragedie of Romeo and Juliet, The (Shakespeare), 46–47
Trajan’s column, Rome, 260
Treaty of London (1518), 65–66, 67
trees, wedding of, Mount Fogliano, 303
trial by ordeal, Frederick II’s elimination of, 257–58
Trump, Donald, 53, 137
Tryggvason, Olaf, 57–58
Tuchman, Barbara, 70
Turing, Alan, 37
Twain, Mark, 92, 95
Ulfilas, bishop, 56
universe, origins of, 229
“unlearned” pre-Christians, eternal fate of, 256–57
Urban II, Pope, 122–23
Ussher, James, 229
Val d’Aosta, 196, 218, 219, 220–22, 223
Val d’Orcia, 285
Vallière, Jean, 124
Vatican
and apologies, 127, 321
and Bruno, 320
corruption in, 167
and Diderot’s Encyclopédie, 140
financed with indulgences, 163
and Galileo, 263, 321
and Joan of Arc, 93
and Luther, 169
modern scientists invited to, 143, 321
and Napoleon, 119
observatory of, 321
and Protestants in France, 124
and Saint Francis of Assisi, 272
and Wilde, 216
Vatican City, 196
completion of pilgrimage in, 326–27
Vauban, citadel of, 152
Vernayaz, Switzerland, 132, 193, 200–201
Vetralla, Italy, 196, 303–5, 306
Via Agrippa, 115–16
Via Cassia Antica, 290
Via Francigena
bell tower dedicated to pilgrims of, 310
epiphanies on, 327
guidebook for, 97, 193
pilgrim passport for, 9, 297, 326
routes of, 4, 40, 109, 192–93
Sigeric’s pilgrimage, 4, 8, 39, 40, 109, 238, 312
Testimonium for completion of, 9, 319, 326
Victor Emmanuel III, King of Italy, 220
Victoria, Queen of Great Britain, 69
vineyards, 236–37. See also champagne; wine
violence
between Christians, 24, 65, 67, 101, 123, 124–28
Crusades, 38, 99, 122–23, 127
execution of San Donnino, 251
executions of heretics, 124, 269, 320
executions of non-Christians, 33
French Wars of Religion, 125
Inquisition, 33, 105, 127, 281, 320, 323
in Ireland, 24
against Jews, 103–4, 123, 127
led by Pope Innocent III, 268–69
and martyrdom of Saint Maurice, 189
Massacre of Wassy, 122, 124–25, 126–27, 128
and mutinous Catholics’ sacking of Rome, 68
Pope John Paul II’s apology for, 321
and religion, 114
Saint Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, Paris, 125
of Savonarola, 280–82, 283
Thérouanne razed by Charles V, 67–68
Wars of Religion, 122, 125, 127
World War I, 66–67
Viterbo, Italy, 196, 299–301, 302
Voltaire, 93
Wars of Religion, 122, 125, 127
Wassy, France, xvi, 121–22, 124–25, 126–28
watchmaking in Besançon, 151
Wedding of the Trees, Mount Fogliano, 303
Welby, Justin, 12–13, 22–23, 191
White Cliffs of Dover, 24
Wilde, Jane Francesca, 215
Wilde, Oscar, 36–37, 214–17, 224
William of Newburgh, 111
William of Saint-Thierry, 97, 114
Willis, Andy, 172–73, 174, 319
wine, 283, 294–95
champagne, 109–10, 111–12, 145, 310
and Chianti country, 283
and Joan of Arc, 93
and Luther, 169
of medieval pilgrims, 96
and monastics, 57, 60, 109–10, 111–12
and Napoleon’s troops in Bourg-Saint-Pierre, 204–5
nebbiolo vineyard, Piedmont, 236–37
in Switzerland, 166
Wisques, France, xvi, 51–52
women
and Catholic Church, 94, 118–19, 292, 301
childbearing of, 117–19
as Jewish rabbis, 301
role in perpetuating Christianity, 21, 91
work, modern emphasis on, 259–60
World War I, 66–67, 69, 70–71
World War II, 15, 31, 171
writing, development of, 46
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Timothy Egan is a Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter and the author of eight other books, most recently The Immortal Irishman, a New York Times bestseller. His book on the Dust Bowl, The Worst Hard Time, won a National Book Award for nonfiction. His account of photographer Edward Curtis, Short Nights of the Shadow Catcher, won the Carnegie Medal for nonfiction. He writes a biweekly opinion column for The New York Times.
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